Reveeen

If, in fact, it is the final drive (and not a motor mount), there is no telling how far it will go. Could go 10,000 miles, could go 10 feet, anyone's guess. Sorry, not much help, and not likely what you wanted to hear.

Of course, if there was a bad, or tight, intake valve it would be behaving much as you describe.

Idle (or as close as you can get) vacuum? followed by a compression check.

For future reference: Always take "the bad one" first, chances are you only have to break it loose, then take it out by hand, once the weight of the starter is on it (by taking the easy one first) you will be wrenching it the entire way.

one of the holes for an idler striped out!!!! If it is the tensioner bolt, that bit is Subaru part number #13086AA012 You would clean up the thread with a tap (12mmX1.25, I *think*) and try a longer bolt (but not too long, you don't want to bottom out in the hole), being very careful not to finish the job on the hole. Helicoil? It is really not a *good idea* to try magic gumbo (concoctions of epoxy) on the camshaft drive.

Oddly enough, my British/European Haynes is different on the "pre-tighten", claiming center bolts to 34 ft lbs (#1+#2), rest to 15 ft lbs, making no distinction for turbo charged, or not, then finish up with the two 90 degree tightens. Go figure? I'd go with the "official" Subaru manual.

From my manual: oil washers and bolt threads Tighten to 22 ft lbs 3 1 6 5 2 4 Tighten to 51 ft lbs Back off 180 degrees first, then another 180 degrees Tighten #1, #2 to 25 ft lbs ( 27.1 ft lbs Turbo) Tighten #3, #4, #5, #6 to 11 ft lbs (14 ft lbs turbo) Tighten all bolts 80-90 degrees (in sequence), DO NOT EXCEED 90 degrees Finish tighten another 80-90 degrees (in sequence), DO NOT EXCEED 90 degrees This is what my 1992 manual suggests.

I'm in the same boat............. It has been suggested (Miles Fox) that the tops have to move in 7mm for every inch of lift to maintain stock camber. I did a "finger test", and found that there is about 1 finger width between the spring and the strut tower, in the stock location, so it would appear that moving the struts inward has its limits. What is left to do is lengthen the lower control arms. The limit to that has been suggested to be an inch (before you run out of drive axle). Either way, the work required is more than the benefit (I'm leaning towards lengthening my lower control arms).

But then again how many white loyale wagons have you seen. One outside every time I look out the window, in worse shape than yours, but I'm fixing it. http://www.crosscanadaparts.com/cgi-bin/crosscanada/product_list.html?img_num=6705

Plan for about 500-800 depending on miles and such. Or, if you are willing to travel, going to a place of low demand will net you an entire car fairly cheap (my Legacy Sport Sedan was less than $400).

how bad or good it is I raised and educated 4 kids, a doctor, a civil engineer, a veterinarian, and a guy that works for the UN. I hold what is called a class "A", "C", "M" and "H" mechanic license(s). Retired @38, but not from "playing mechanic".

in about a year or so I'm planning on going to school to become a mechanic. I personally, if I had it to do all over again, would pick plumber, or electrician.

The concern I have is a length (6") of steel, roughly 3/16, brake line hanging mid-air with a collection of fittings on the end of it, with no support to be expected from the rubber hose. As I said, whenever I do this I can expect a fracture, even if you had directed the steel line forward and doubled back to hook to the flex line, and zip tied it to the suspension arm (though a welded bracket would be ideal), you would lessen the unsupported weight of the mid-air fittings. I am not trying to be critical, just worrying about safety.

How many revolutions before timing marks align? No idea. the Goodyear Gatorback belts MAY NOT align correctly I got my Goodyear belt from Beck-Arnley (packaged as "Beck-Arnley") and was faced with the identical "problem". After a bunch of head scratching I decided to go with the mark on the pulley and timing cover (notch in plastic behind the pulley, see your picture), turned out ok. Due to an adjuster bolt failure (don't ask me, I don't know why, all I know is the bolt failed 14 months later), I went with a Dayco belt, which lined up just fine. Is there a method for counting the turns, or had the belt skipped or something? The distances are un-equal (between the left and right belt distances in relation to the crank) so it becomes a relationship thing, rather than to get the marks to line up later kind of thing, besides the marks wear off in short order, or at least they do here), it is a put everything in the proper relationship, and put the belt on (without disturbing that relationship) "thing". Technically you should be counting teeth, rather than worrying about painted marks on a rubber belt, but to each his/her own. Not really an answer, but the only one I have (and yes, it is probably a good idea to steer clear of Goodyear belts).

Is no one else concerned about the un-supported brake hose transition (from steel to flex line)? (whenever I try this stuff it usually fails in short order)

From the look of things you have a nice little wagon there. Might I suggest you locate a so-so hood to carve up (putting yours away just in case you change your mind at a later date). Usually when a "younger fella" gets it in his head to do some hood carving, he usually does it, and regrets it later.

More important than specific torque to wheel nuts is the surface you are mounting them to. If the hub has more than a light surface rusting, or is dirty, all the torque in the world counts for nothing.

6mm steel bolt running into aluminum. More "snug" than "tight".

well, that is where the transmission crossmember for the auto's mount....AA calls it the shift linkage gaurd in their lift kit. that's my wagon pictured in your post with the lift in it, shortly after that was taken, I removed that crossmember, with no negative effects (but with it gone, was able to raise my exhaust a couple inches That, I guess you could/would call it a cross member, kind of performs a drive shaft "loop" function. In case of drive shaft front failure that, well, cross member keeps the drive shaft from hitting the ground and pole vaulting you all over the landscape. If you ever have seen the results of front drive shaft failure it might be a fair to good idea to put something back there (for what it would cost).

I don't know where the fuel pump relay I would suspect it is in the same place (and colour coded) the same as a Legacy: http://autorepair.about.com/library/illustrations/bl081a-lib.htm Could it be a bad relay? They are in a bad spot if the windshield, side window, and, if equipped, sun roof leak. There is a fuse but I don't know which one. The ignition switch does a two function fuel pump feed, start/run, check the ignition switch. I'm almost sure it is hooked into the engine computer, and depending on the market, there is a collision shut down. You *really* need a wiring diagram.

Of course you could try direct: http://www.autoventshade.com/home_avs.aspx

Both part numbers: # 13 Adapter A (gearbox) - 6313 19040 # 14 Adapter B (gearbox) - 6313 19050 are showing "current and available" here in Canada $8.44 each + tax.

Do you have part numbers? Here is the problem: in Canada I need a serial number, or a part number, to feed into the parts program, otherwise it doesn't work, I would suspect the US is the same. In about 2 hours I can give my Subaru parts guy a call, and using my serial number (87 GL), see what turns up. Edit: Parts books here only go back to 1980, the parts are shown here as available.

If I remember correctly, there were a bunch of companies that made dual wheel adapters for conventional pick-ups, pretty thin on the ground now, there is some stuff still around that I'm sure could be adapted: http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2003967&TID=231000000&TID=231000000&productId=2003967&catalogId=10101 Just picked that one out of the air, and certainly not the quality that these folks make: http://www.arrowcraft.com/ But, really, how heavy duty would something bolted to a Brat need to be?

I've played with the idle mixture a few times and it doesn't seem to get rid of this problem Do you have idle control when you "play" with the idle control screw? (slow down, speed up, slow down: lean, normal, rich) Is the vacuum advance in the distributor working? or hooked to the right spot? With the car not running, and the air cleaner off, looking down the throat of the carb, do you get a shot of fuel when you manually open the throttle?