TheLoyale

Yeah pretty much just drop the blocks on top of the struts and your good. It will take a few hours, For the front: Take off wheels, Un-bolt 3 10mm bolts on top of the strut tower, Un-bolt your Tie-rod from the hub (17mm Castle nut) Un-bolt the one 14mm bolt/nut that holds the control arm to the cross member, Un-bolt the 12mm bolt that holds the sway-bar end to the Control arm, Then un-bolt the two 17mm bolts/nuts that hold the Radius rod to the control arm. You might also need to pop the axle off the transmission (Punch out the Roll pin and slide the axle off the trans stub) You should then have enough movement/space to get the block on top of the strut, bolt that down, then get the strut back up into the tower, and reverse everything to re-assemble it. One tip on getting the Control arm end lined back up into the cross member so the bolt goes in is to, loosen the two 17mm Crossmember nuts (Which will start to drop the crossmember/engine) this will give you the added clearence to get the control arm back into the crossmember. (I know, this sounds like a lot of BS, but its very easy once you're looking at it) Also, once everything is back on and torqued down, re-install the 12mm bolt/nut for the sway bar once the vehicle is on the ground (It will be much easier to flex the bar back into place) I can get you pictures of everything I talked about if you want.

Swap in the XT6 5-Lug hubs is straight forward (You might need to make a hybrid axle) as I think the CV spline count is different then the GL/Loyale. The hardest part about all this is, finding all the parts without spending 2 legs, a left nut and an ear... The XT6 are 5x100. So you could run any 5 lug Subaru wheel and countless other brands. As for your lack of power, try a full tune up, NGK BPR6ES-11 plugs and NGK wires if you want. New cap and rotor, Fuel filter, Air filter, Clean out all your PCV hoses (Ones running from each Valve cover) Clean the MAF, run some Seafoam through the brake booster and in your fuel. That'll give it a good start. Its an EA82, 1781cc Carb'ed Flat-Four, how much power do you want? Lol. You make about 85hp and a 101ft.tq At least you have a 5spd. Try my 3AT

Looking pretty nice. As for your seat question, you could try finding some out of a First gen Impreza. I saw one at a Junkyard with very firm narrow seats (Very simular to the EA82s) You could still use the EA82s seat track and swap the new seat onto it (I've done that with my Legacy) Welcome to the crew. -Tom

Also, if you go over 2" - you will need to get a longer hydraulic soft line (From the brake caliper to the hard line junction on the wheel well)

With a 2" lift you do not need to lengthen the steering shaft, as you don't need to lower the Crossmember. For a 2" lift, all you are doing is putting a spacer block on top of the strut to (In a sense, push the body up, being a Uni-body) So the lift is straight forward. If you go bigger then 2", you will need to drop down the crossmember (Motor and all) - depending on the lift size, you can use a Steering shaft from a Outback ('95-'99) as it is longer and will work perfectly. You will also need to make a longer engine pitch stopper bar. You also need to drop down the rear diff and mustach bar. If theres anything you want to know, just ask. I know a few tricks on installing the lift. -Tom PS: this is the steering shaft (Its a double U-joint style) this is the only thing that would need to be longer. This picture is of one from a Forester which would also work.

I like this!

Repainted the center console deck. Before: After: The "Eye" of creativity has been awoken.

Going to be installing a Timing Kit on my buddy Jon's '96 Brighton (Phase-I EJ22) tomorrow. I have ground down a rust spot on the rear door of TW10, hit it with some ceramic primer and then Satin Black and "BOOM!" no more rust spot. Rustolium cars are so easy to fix.

Whats next for Safariwagon? Next spring I am replace Struts all around with KYBs. I may also get some Epoxy paint and repaint the springs Gray. Since this thread is winding down for the time being, follow Safariwagon-II "The Landcruiser Build"

Planning on storing this beast in my garage for the winter.

Thanks for the link, I will be going with those instead. Took the front bumper off again, heated it up and hammered it back into place, its almost flush with the front valence now.

This is what I plan on running for the High-beams: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/50W-55W-HID-kit-xenon-H1-H3-H4-H7-H8-H11-9006-9007-9005-/180725195025?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a140fa111#ht_7005wt_963

I just bought a set of 35w 5000k Bi-xenon HIDs for the Low beams on the Toyota. I am also going to swap out the high-beams when I get more money. Getting to the bulbs on this thing is kinda PITA, for the driver side, you need to remove the engine bay cooling fan (Yes it has a cooling fan for the engine bay that blows onto the Intake) and for the passenger side, you need to remove the battery. Now if I can find a place for these thin ballasts we're in luck! On another note, I painted the center console lid and the rear view mirror semi-gloss black (Rustolium truck bead liner) looks much better and works well with the interior.

Thin plain screwdriver, and work it gently. That's how I've done it.

Just placed an order with Superbrightleds.com for two High Power SSL Futon bulbs to replace both Dome lights. I ordered them in the "Warm White" Vs. the "Cool White" which I have put in both Subarus. I am also thinking of adding under-dash floor lights at some point, Blue will work nicely (I've done that in the Loyale)

Thanks for the encouragement, Yeah, I've heard about Caster issues and such. I would like to go with the 3" Old Man Emu lift (Come with longer HD shocks and longer Springs along with spaces for the links to keep stock caster) My ultimate goal would be, 3" lift, 33x10.5x15 OR 33x12.5x15 BFGoodrich KM2s. Steel Expedition Basket, Lights, Spare tire onto Vs. under the truck, maybe add a Snorkel for shiggles. 5000k HID swap for Low and High-beams and random other goodness.

You have put a lot of time and care in that car, I remember when you did a lot of that stuff. Turned out very nice! I also love that you've done write-ups of everything. Cheers and bravo indeed!

Thank you, take your time. I am looking forward to see it and what he has done. It'll give me some ideas for sure Heres a few new pictures, New LED side markers. TRD Badges.

2" SJR Lift 27" Maxxis Bighorns 14" Peugeot 505 steelies (Powder coated)

Ask and you shall receive.

The LCD screen could have just failed over the years.

Is the only difference of the trip comp clock, the color? Orange vs. Green? I must say, I do like the orange. They should have made an Ice blue version

But wheres the fun it that?

'92 Loyale with extras from GL10s. '95 Outback with extras from newer and older Subarus.