Mugs

Well its about time that you showed back up, and with an update too, pics included...priceless. Waiting to see what lies ahead When you gonna lift it and EJ it

Today on my 86 BRAT LOF Plugs, Rotor, Cap. Check and adjust timing...I was 2* off. Replace slow and sticking T-Stat Check for radiator leaks...verify 4 vains are leaking...grab 90* needle nose pliers. crimp off veins on each side of leak...no more leaky :-\ Add DIY overflow bottle/resivoir Drill out, tap, Heli-coil and replace 10x1.25 exhaust stud holes... Re-stud (now I have more then one per side ) and install new gaskets using the brass nuts the new stud kit came with.....Now I have Brass nuts Replace burnt out side marker bulbs in bumper. Replace clear bulbs with amber bulbs in corner lights. Tap into blinker harness and run wires up to corner lens plugs. Now I have blinkers that people on the side of me can see, and those in front get a double notice of turn signal....I tapped on the blinker bulb side not on the wire harness plug side, and left everything unmolested and used spare plugs and parts...That way I can go back to stock real easy if I want to. That was enough for one day. Now she's a happy camper and ready for my this weekend.

True, True, Now is a great time to be a subie owner....a highly modified one is even better. The BRAT definitely had some snow time fun yesterday as well

Ya thats the one...Thanks...its now bookmarked.

On this forum there used to be a Subies of the 80's data page with pics and specs...Tried searching and could not find it. That had a ton of info on it that would answer a lot of your questions.... anybody know where that portion of the forum went?

Also be undoing cross member nuts that are on the motor mounts and, removing the dog bone and jacking the engine as far out of the cradle as you can without breaking anything....Pay close attention the how much stress you put on the AC lines !!!!!! helps alot. It brings the engine high enough that once you feel the bolt you can actually get a wrench on it...Its still a PIA

It is easy to "flip" the triangle shape connector "upside down" and sill have it connected with a "positive" click. When this is done it flips the power wire over to the "fan on" pin and will keep the fans on all the time. Unplug it and flip it back over. This time you should see that it lines up with a grove and hear a positive/louder click and not be able to pull it off the sensor like you could when it was flipped upside down. Try that and report back.

What ever you do, don't skimp out on price of the welder, stay away from the cheap crap from Harbor freight and the like. Personally I prefer Miller, ya the Lincoln 180 will weld just as well as my Miller 211 MVP but at the end of the day the Miller just seems to come out better in all areas. I have a spool gun with my welder as well, so I can weld stainless and aluminum also...but it doesn't do quite as well as a TIG nor can it get down to doing thin metal either, like a TIG can I agree about using a solid core wire with shielding gas. YMMV...also just my two cents Jody from Welding Tips and Tricks has a ton of great information you may want to look at before deciding what to get.

This was a very cold and crappy afternoon. To put it into perspective I had a 6 in lift and 29inch tires on this bugger, well an EJ too but that's a different story. Once we (monstaru and I) got it out, I drained the oil, put new oil in, and drove it home...with no issues.

Pm Sent

You can always just bole in a side reflector I imagine. Something after market would probably come real close to fitting the way "we" need it too. Or maybe just manufacture a blank cover to snap into place over the whole Just putting that out there...I am sure when a few of us get these in the states we will figure it out.

Kinda figured as much...I assume it was a local's because it was always parked there the whole time we were in the town.

AHHH our first Washington BRAT meet....to bad last (2011) year was a bit of a flop....hopefully there will be a better showing this year (2012)

A clogged heater core will make your car overheat on these cars, and also as mentioned before OEM or Exactfit t-stat is the way to go.

Here is a WRX Wagon I saw when my wife and I were in France this past fall. It was in Chamonix which is at the base of MT. Blanc...so of course you would find a suby in the mountains...I am not sure if it was a diesel or not, but every car I saw/heard was, including the few other Japanese cars that I saw. I actually stopped and walked back to the car (on the way to the Aguille du Midi/Mt.Blanc climbing office) just to take the pics...my wife was like, seriously, you've got to be kidding me right now. FYI This was the only suby I saw in the entire country..and yes we walked/road the trains around the entire country.

Ya but then you can't hear the turbo over the exhaust

How you gonna be allergic to hippies and live in Grants Pass :-\ Any way a nice score none the less, I have been on the hunt for one of these for about 3 years, I have yet to still score mine...but I'm picky, Most came in 5spd, I want Auto, Cruise, and A/C if it doesn't have those then I don't bother looking...plus they are a more "rare" type of car compared to the availability of outbacks and legacy's.

Yes it is a completely gutted and shelled EA82..if you look at the next pics you can see the front fender/engine bay core support beams. I remember this thread, I think he EJ'd it. I have often thought about doing this as well. It would definitely teach me tubing skills.

95-99 EJ22 cars had this problem...it was the air box design...customers complained enough, so in 2000 they baffled the crap out of the air box, and changed the filter location to the top of the throttle body. Personally I love the sound of the 95-99 accelerating...I always romp on it, just to make that "turbo" noise...then again I come with a weighted right foot.

I just bought one from CarQuest, there in house premium one is exactly like the OEM...same size, grade, quality etc, etc. It was 15 and some change, came with a gasket too. The stealership here wants 38 bucks, I about fliped out...usually they cut me a pretty good deal, and are (in general) only a few dollars more then Oreilly's on most of their parts. But that blew my mind away when they sold me that one...I had no choice, I needed the t-stat that day so I could get the "customer" down the road.

Its Patchouli oil...and neither one of those smells are a bad thing So what are the plans for it... :popcorn:

All Data or Mitchell on demand are about the only two out there. Personally I prefer All Data over and above Mitchell. All Data has a great shop management program as well. Then there's the new Snap On stuff, where you can be at the car doing a diag, yet look up all the TSB's, flow charts, labor estimates, and how-to pages all from the same lap top and never have to leave the car to look different stuff up....it costs about 10k though. I would figure your boss having three shops and you being a tech would already know about the above mentioned items.

Ya that is what "we" set them at, and they still clack like a mother.

I think your wrong...the STI stamping on the tail pipe is an instant 30 extra horse right there...bumping from a 2.5in to a 3.0in exhaust is another 20, so there's 50 extra just from the exhaust change, on top of that the frekien motor build that's another 45...so if it came stock with 160 (2.5 block) and you add the 95 total in up grades, that comes out to about 255HP total output. Ya that sounds about right....

Defintly not ugly.... she's right dead sexy....dead sexy I tell ya. sexy.