Mugs

I Check for exhaust leaks. Then I check cat temp from front to rear with my temp gun. I monitor the 02, sensors in particular the rear one. The rear should stay above reference voltage, of .5 and not really fluctuate when in closed loop. If it is grossly erratic I change it. More often then not I change the rear 02 as a start of my diag procedures. The rear 02 is just a "cat" monitor so if it is going bad, then the ecu thinks the cat is bad, so it pops the code. Sometimes I have had MAF/MAP sensors and crank/cam sensor contribute to the problem, but not very often. Start with the rear 02 and go from there.

I have seen it advertised on T.V. as a Toyota. Not only that, but they grossly lie about it. In Paraphrase: "The worlds first boxer engine, and the only one ever to be made" ....um excuse me, but what about Porsche, Corvair, Subaru, Gabriel, and a few others that I can't think of right at this moment.

Also your "cheap" version of what ever welder probably came with .030 or .035 FCAW wire. You need to scale back to .023 or .020 FCAW wire. Also as stated before, stitch don't seam weld. But if you do seam weld in a few places, push rather the pull the whip. This method does not penetrate as hard, and welds cooler, yet leave clean welds, that don't wrap the metal. And of course I might add...you get what you pay for. So if you bought a cheap welder you'll get cheap welds. When it comes to this type of stuff its best to step up, but I understand the money thing as well. But look at it this way, sure it may hurt the pocket book now, but are you gonna notice the pain in a year...probably not.

Lookin good mate' Definitely going to see that one going down the road. So when are you gonna EJ one of those bad boys.

Sorry to hear about your friend. Prayers sent your way.

ditto !!!!!!

Are those the "brakes" on the axles???Never seen anything like it (well suby related anyway) Looks like you have along road ahead of you...but its gonna be cool when your done with it.

Why can't I see the pics.... iMac 2.7 using safari?????

I gauged aluminum a few times..luckily not on a "critical" surface. What I learned was to pull the blade backwards and not try to "shave" material off by going forward. This seems to work well. Extreme caution and care need to be used. As I am sure that those of use that have had to learn the hard way..now realize. :-p

Thats going to kick you in the butt someday. When working with aluminum you have to just use a razor blade, brake clean, PB blaster, and some emery cloth with a little elbow grease. Using the quick and fast "whizzy wheels" even if there the 3M plastic bristle kind that are not supposed to take away/deform metal will, eventually. Heck I use both kinds for mild grinding applications. So if it will do that to a surface, I don't care how much skill and or precaution one takes, it still will make a flat surface not flat any more. And messing with the block to head surface is not something I want to screw up or with

Thank you..Thats what I was trying say..but no one wants to believe me. Im me hey Ivan its not like we know what were talking about or anything, considering we both have Shops (well I did until last week.)

For those that are thinking about buying or just plain curious about the new BRZ, I found this video review on the BRZ. Its very detailed, and I found it very informative. I have been up close and personal with one at the dealership...I wasn't too impressed with it..but at the same time I like it. Think I would give it a few years to mature..and maybe get a more powerful motor in the there...along with a little bit of different styling...but all and all, a cool car. Hope you enjoy. I don't think we can embed a video on the forum (or at least I don't know how) so here is the URL to the youtube page.

Wire harness for an EJ Swap?????

SHAW-WINGGG I'll have to come check that out too...Can't wait to see it in action-jackson mode

Here is what I do. I buy a complete engine re-seal kit and timing belt kit from domestic gaskets all the stuff is NTN, NSK, GMB...which is the same as what Suby uses. The I ditch their "junk china pop" head gaskets and buy OEM ones, along with the metal H2O pump gasket..and if its for a 2000 or newer suby I buy the suby coolant and conditioner as well. I also buy the factory style T-stat (car quest is the one that carries them in my town) When I install the HGSKT's I coat both sides (coat the block side first, set it on the block..coat other side facing up) with Permatex aviation gasket sealer...its just good insurance. I do the same for the H2O gasket as well. I also "tear" the whole engine down to just a short block...and everything gets resealed on the way out. Only use Ultra grey on your oil pan, separator plate, and oil pump, or any other application that requires silicone sealant...Its Ultra Grey or nothing....the rest is junk..well unless its the OEM fuji bond..but thats spendy. Even with buying the "OEM" stuff your still saving a huge chunk of change compared to if you were to buy it all "OEM" Hope that helps.

Looks like a good start....Gotta start somewhere right. 95% of the population fails, because they never start.

I would expect anyone to pay 300-400 for this product. But most of the people on this forum are uber cheap...yet some drive rides that say a different story. I would be willing to pay 3-400 for it. Its looking really good man. Thanks for all the hard work on that. I have had really good luck with Wheeler Industries here in town, might give them a try.

Oh monstaru's is fast, and will run right the hell over you if you get in the way

In the gas tank.

looks cool, I like it...well most of it. I can believe that shroom sticker is still around. I had the same one on my car in 98...thats nuts.

I would be down...provided I can make it, and am not working or is conflicting with something else. As it looks like there won't be the usual Memorial Day BRAT Meet.

The question is did you pull the one coming out of the fuel filter going to the fuel rail. You said you pulled one of the 3, well which one. ? Because if you pulled the evap one, then you won't get any fuel. I would pull the one coming from the bulk head and going INTO the fuel filter. Turn your key on and see if fuel comes out. If there is, then hook it back up, and disconnect the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter itself. Turn key on, check for flow....bad or no flow, change fuel filter. I always change my fuel filter once a year anyways, as a maintenance item. If your not getting any fuel at all, then go after the pump relays, and fuses first, You can also open up the access panel on the tank under the rear seat and jumper the hot lead, to see if the pump is working or not. If it comes one, then you have an issue before the pump, if it does not, then replace the pump, sock, and fuel filter and go from there.

You can also use the EA82 fly wheel, just dermal out the high spots on the bell housing. I did not have to change the shift linkage any. The 5 speed bolted right in where the 4speed used to be (inside the console.) Now to keep the stock configuration of the H/L shifter I had to extend the shift rod 7/8 of an inch, and it works great. For the wiring I just used the EA81 plugs and soldered them onto the EA82 harness, once I figured out all the wiring. That way it would plug back into my stock EA81 harness in the engine bay. This was all done to my 86 BRAT Hope this helps.

Thats a fact. Figure about a 500-1000 by the time it is all said and done with.

Also don't forget that the P0420 code can be related to a bad rear O2 sensor, but has nothing to do with your car not starting. I am just putting that out there so you don't replace your cat for no reason, except to pad the wallets of the muffler shop. The best way to see if you have a clogged cat unbolt the exhaust at the y collector and see if it will run "normally" If it does then yes you may have a clogged rear cat. For the front just unbolt it at the heads and run it for a quick bit (not necessarily recommended) Also some muffler shops can do a flow test for you to see if it is the front or rear cat. Check your timing, and compression and report back