SmashedGlass

No electrics involved, purely mechanical. And older cars seat belts do tend to require quite an abrupt tug to trigger the "lockup". If you are really concerned, you can buy aftermarket (NOT eBay) retracting belt sets online, but be forewarned they do cost a bit.

I'll second checking the intake boot for leaks. That rubber boot likes to crack with age, especially where the corrugations are. Mine is wrapped in a layer of electrical tape at both ends where the corrugations are for just that reason, they were looking pretty crackly so I 'sealed' them.

....grab the rear diff out of the same shell you got the xmsn from, perhaps?

Yep, older Datsun/Nissans too. Stick to the proper NGK plugs.

How the hell do you take the cover apart without breaking it?

In my experience, with the factory switch (if yours is an EA82), it will normally run a touch above the half mark on the temp gauge. That is about when the electric fan should kick on for a minute, and then shut off about when the needle has dropped back to a hair below half.

And to add......what 'mechanic' would call his job complete if that is how he handed it back to you?!?

Your mechanic bled them wrong then.

I have heard about using peppermint oil (real peppermint oil, not a 'flavor') to keep them out. Haven't done so myself yet, but as I found traces (read: spoob balls) today in my rear cargo area after the entire inside was stripped and cleaned last week, I'll be trying the oil as soon as I can find some. Will also be trying some in the engine bay, or maybe moth balls, as I keep finding evidence in both cars engines of rodent parties.

6.5" will fit, even using the factory speaker mounting ring. Just watch the depth of the speaker. Crutchfield will tell you what the size and depth of the factory speaker is, so you can make your own choices; their "fits" option, on the other hand, will disqualify some items even though they will, in fact fit.

Sell spouse; buy parts for XT.

Coolant flush*. It works. ...unless sludge has been holding your heater core together, in which case it will give you nice hot water in the cab instead of hot air *by flush, I mean with actual cleaners, not just changing your coolant.

There's a really nice all black coupe on Ft. Carson in Colorado Springs, CO. Civilian DOD worker down by the rail yard. Tried tracking him down before I retired and [temporarily!] moved to Florida, with no luck. Thing is *mint*.

Well, I'm sure someone with more knowledge of the older Subes will chime in, but until then.....if your struts are like the 3rd gen, after the pinch bolt holding the strut body to the hub is removed, you're gonna need to whack the spoob out the hub to get it to pop free of the strut. Or if you're lucky, just stand on the hub with a bar and it'll pop.

"Schvits".... That's a new one

I had a chance (a chance!) to grab one a few years back for stupid cheap, up in Monument Colorado. Guy had to sell several of his vehicles to pay bills after the economy fell. I think he was asking $1200 for a '78 coupe in good, running condition; said it was one of his daily drivers. Sadly, I couldn't scrape the cash together quick enough

Pitch rod.

Briankk, try looking for Hankook Winter iPikes in 175/70R13. They're commonly available (at least they were back in Colorado) and come at a fair price. Excellent winter grip, studded or unstudded, and road noise on dry pavement is acceptable. You can get them studded or non-studded; any good tire place can stud the former for you.

When I still lived in Colorado, I had absolutely no problems when it was pure crap out. Matter of fact, I was sailing right past supposedly "real" off-road trucks and SUV's that had slid into curbs and whatnot because they were too heavy to deal with the slush and ice under the snow. Good tires (Winter iPikes, w/o studs) + low vehicle weight = win.

Nice Juha, that is one clean 2 gen.

Good luck on that oil change; isn't your high in Colorado for tomorrow a single digit number?

What weight of oil is in it right now? You should run 5W30 when it's going to be consistently below freezing for a good while.

Well, as far as your higher number for idle, that's about right for when it's really cold out. This is assuming that your idle goes back to normal after the car has warmed up to operating temp, or you 'cheat' it by blipping the throttle before it's completely warm. Check engine light you can check yourself via the light on the ecu under the steering wheel. Key in on position will give you a serious of flashes; if all is okay you'll get something like five quick flashes and then a long pause, repeated, which is just your car code. If there is a fault, you will get some other combination of long and short flashes, the long ones equaling the first digit of the code, the short ones the second (i.e. one long + three short = 13). It will also tell you if there is more than one fault code by alternating different combinations.

That sounds like destroyed bearings to me. And you might as well get a new axle and all the other components.