SmashedGlass

If the vents only blow from one section regardless of which position you have selected it usually is a vacuum problem. Start by checking the vac line in the engine compartment; runs from a tee'd fitting near the throttle body, back to a vac canister near the passenger strut tower, and then in through the firewall. If that's good, the next check is where the vac line clips to the heater blower body behind the glovebox, making a connection from rubber hose to plastic line. From there the plastic line snakes up into the central console.

Go back and ask to speak to his supervisor. He obviously is an idiot.

Best place for that sensor is somewhere up in the front bumper but away from your radiator and a/c condenser. That's where they put it factory in cars so equipped.

Would these give a slight lift to an 87+ that came factory without the adjustable struts?

Where....did....she...find...those...... I see, should've slowed down while glancing through the post the first time Pricey.

If you get the springs for the struts replaced with OE replacements, you will regain the height you may have lost over the years from spring sag.

I was about to say something til your edit popped up.

On a similar note, do you guys think the washer trick would work for a side that has slightly out of whack caster? When I had mine aligned, they couldn't correct it on one side try as they might, even by prying the mounting bracket for the leading rod forward with a bigass pry bar. I think it's only out of spec by a degree or so (don't have my alignment papers in front of me atm), and I'm not really noticing unusual wear on the tire as is or anything after 3000+ miles.

Won't be a problem as long as you keep them paired (same tires on both sides up front, same tires on both sides rear).

Tom is right, you may be best off getting new hoses. Good to have just in case you botch the originals, if you don't you can take the new ones back. And try using a hose pick to go around the edge of the hose where you're going to pull it off.

Steering wheel adapters for EA82: you have to get 'em from Australia. Shipping to the US will be murder. Or you get real real lucky and one pops up on eBay (SAAS brand is the one that pops to mind) that is in North America somewhere....but then get ready for the bidding war making it almost as expensive as new from AUS. AFAIK, the adapters available in the US are all manufactured by one company (Grant?) and are splined for Brats. Easiest and most practical way is to make your own adapter using a spare steering wheel and some cut'n'weld skills.

You should be able to dye the vinyl covering it easily with some of the Duplicolor, SEM, or VHT vinyl coatings. If you're looking at just foam..............you're missing something.

WTH is up with the BMW badges on that old wagon?

The strut (which your car has at all four corners) is the spring combined onto a shock. It's possible but unlikely that the spring portion of the struts is worn, as well as the shock parts (unless you've done a lot of harsh driving, such as off-roading, or years of driving around with so much cargo that the back end was sagging); I wouldn't think you'd need to also replace the springs. When you buy new 'struts', what you'd be getting is the shock portion complete with the seats for the springs, but not the springs, and the shop would be swapping your old springs onto the new struts. Replacing them will restore the "stiffness" you're looking for, as the worn shock portion is allowing the springs part to bounce a little more than it used to. As 81EA81 said, the KYB branded struts would be really good but cost a bit more.

Does it smell sweet, like burning coolant? Is your exhaust puffing out white smoke at all while running?

The question is, why is the person with the coupe so willing to trade it for your sedan? Is there some hidden issue with the coupe you may not be aware of......Just saying.

Borrow or buy an impact screwdriver set. Though I'll have to say that I had zero problems pulling the rails off any of my seats without using any special tools.

http://www.mooreparts.com/3758-WHL005/?gclid=CPya5q71vrsCFaTm7Aod4R0AAw

Do you have part numbers from those Tokico shocks?

Wow guy, I just offered the first answer that came to mind. You butthurt with amazing ease.

As for the dash lights, are you talking about just the illumination lights, or all of the lights (including the ones for the various gauges)? It's possible you have a bad illumination control switch ("dimmer" the rotary controller to the left of the steering column). Try swapping it with another one, or jumper the pins in the plug and see if you get lights then. The illumination controller is basically nothing more than a rheostat controlling the voltage supplied to the dash lighting. *I'm going to assume you already checked all of the fuses in your fuse box.

Brand new stock springs would fix that.

Well, I think you answered your own question right in there. If bypassing the heater core solves the problem, I'd wager it's....the heater core what needs repaired or replaced.

Did you check the vacuum line that clips in on the left side of the heater/blower body, between it and the a/c evaporator? Rubber line comes through the firewall, and at the heater/blower body a skinnier, harder plastic line connects to it and runs from there up along the main harness under the dash and into the center console area. Or, possibly, dislodged or damaged the line in the engine compartment? Rubber line runs from a t-fitting near the throttle body, goes to passenger strut tower and a vac canister, then into the firewall.

That Brat is a sad sight, but it's a beautiful picture. I old rusty pictures, cars and locations.