The Dude Abides

sorry ea82, i dont know if the brakes interchange though.

To bad its not a ea car. Numb is in that area and im sure he might of helped you if he could.

Oh and tom i know youve never done brakes on these vehicles. Want to know why. Because these calipers are stupid. You need a special tool or pliers to spil the caliper back. A c clamp wont work on these brakes. It really stinks, i know.

Heres an idea. Can you just remove the caliper from the brake. Now granted you would only have 3 brakes but you could still mosy down the road until you can find a replacement.

Any type of cutting oil or lube needed. Or is the aluminum pretty workable as is.

Also GD sorry if im frustrating you. I need ask and re ask and look for the easiest and quickest solutions. My car cant be down long, and here in iowa we run out of warm weekends quick this time of year.

Ok Gd I trust you but couple questions. 1. How do i thread the allthread into the new hole without damageing the threads on the new studs. 2. Wont i have some nasty burs on my allthread if i cut it. 3. How long of a stud do i need to cut to get maximum penitration Im asumeing if i tap it to 7/16 i need to get 7/16 allthread.

Someone posted this in another thread. Could i use this setup to replace the exhaust studs. Loctight the studs then antisieze the other side. Said these were for a small block chevy.

No kidding, ive been telling him that but he wont listen to me. If the body is as rotten as you say then try to pickup a cheap lift and beat the snot out of that.

I recomend either DieHard or Interstate. I know there all the hype but theyve been worth it. The diehard weatherhandler in my wagon was a year old when my brother had it. It finally gave up the ghost 7 years after it was bought. Worth every penny, when my wifes factory battery died in her van this year i replaced it with a diehard. One of the few things you might not want to skimp out on is a good power supply.

LOL ooooooooooooooooo im not sure you should show that. I might want that sticker though.

And besides the GLs were better then the Loyales anyway. Everything past 90 was stripped down single range. Where in the late 80s GLs were the top of the line. But back on topic. Im having wheel bearing troubles also. Replaceing the ones on the back are no joke. Jack the rear end up and spin the wheel. If you hear the grinding or binding up then its the wheel bearing. But i dont see how this could possibly be the problem since it didnt start happening until you put it in 4wd. Do these require you backup a bit like on older 4wd trucks to disengage them from 4wd.

No an 88 gl would be cable driven right. No soliinode like in a single range. 4hi 4 low right.

Soo i should probally take care of this. Dam like ive got money growing out of my butt.

When we had mwss i drove through some pretty good deep puddles repetively so im sure that didnt help. The only thing i can think of is if i just have someone else at a shop replace them. I dont have the tools or the talent to get this done in a timely manner. Half of the stuff you guys are talking about i have no idea what you are saying. I agree with the new bearings part but if its a pain in the butt and extremely hard to replace then i dont know what exactly to do. Is there a bearing removal wrightup.

I thought of that to but the problem is it was makeing this noise before i swaped the brakes. Its geting worse boys. If this things fails, whats the worst that can happen.

How do you remove the axel from the trailing arm. Doesnt it just slide off.

Im thinking along the lines of what they say now brent on replacing the whole trailing arm. Its a huge hastle to get to that thing and my car cant be down. If i remove the trailing arm from a parts car in the yard i can get the dust shield. Pull the old one off and put the new one on lickety split. Tell me guys. Isnt it just a few bolts then the shocks to undo then the trailing arm comes off. Ofcourse you need to remove all the old brake components as well. Which might be the only hastle since the castle nut might be stuck on like on my old one. Any advise.

What about the dust shield or is that something i need on a junkyard car.

Gathering parts for my possible rear bearing job. What parts do i need to get for the job. I checked rock auto and they list, inner, outer and other things so im lost ont hat aspect. Can i pickup a new dustshield somewhere or do i need to buy a used one. Should i also replace the other side. Im actually thinking about contacting my brother and asking where he got the others done. He said cost him about 150 for 2 sides. Ben

is it only for the historic subarus, the one on my 88 wagon is rattling. How much louder is it.

How about The Dirty Dozen

Yea do alittle checking. The ea82turbo really cant cut the mustard. EJ it.

Actually i didnt know that but i did it anyways. Little movement but nothing to drastic. Not bad balljoint drastic.

Im sure drivin through the puddles repeately and the mucky mud didnt help any.