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rob, let me know when you plan on swinging up, i'll have you stop by and look at a 1990 XT6 chris

(as a former car sales guy) read the fine print on the warranty, better yet, call up a service center and ask them to pull up the warranty info on your new car . . . sometimes rental companies can negotiate a better price from a manufacturer by forgoing the "power train warranty" that extends beyond the "bumper to bumper" warranty. example: many, many dodge/chrysler products are used by rental companies, fleet vehicles (United Rentals) etc. as a dodge/chrysler dealership, we would sometimes supplement our used car inventory (as is a common practice) with auction cars- 90% of which were rental/fleet vehicles. even though dodge/chrysler (at the time) featured a 7yr 70K "powertrain" warranty from "in service date" on almost every model produced (diesel trucks were even longer) we were warned never to tell a customer that on an auctioned rental/fleet vehicle that they would have whatever the remainder was on that 7yr 70k powertrain coverage because companies like Budget, Enterprise, United Rentals etc. lease the cars new from chrysler/dodge with only the 3yr 36k bumper to bumper warranty to save money on the mass lease deals. often what would happen if someone didn't inform a client correctly about the warranty coverage on their used rental car is that the client would bring the car in for some powertrain related issue outside of the 3yr 36k period, and they would be told by a service adviser that they had no powertrain extended coverage like they would've if they'd bought the car new . . . after one or two innocent mistakes with this, the dealership finally called dodge/chrysler to see why that particular VIN'd car had no coverage beyond the 3/36, and dodge/chrysler informed them of the rental company's practice of opting out of the powertrain coverage to save money (and the dealership ate repair costs, because the client was mis-informed) so . . . long story short, call your local subaru dealer, give them your vin, and just verify that you have coverage on the powertrain beyond the bumper to bumper period . . . their service computers will pull it right up. good luck chris

http://www.rockauto.com used them several times now, been bery, bery good to me chris

opt1) buy large boat, hook 'er up, and find a long bumpy hill to climb- seems to work on many trucks that need to lose their hitch opt2) find a big A** tree, attach chain, select drive, floor pedal on right (also straightens out bent unibodys quite nicely) seriously . . . opt3) i think you may have to drill the pin out, probably the easiest way to git'er dun . . . cut the ends of the pin off with a sawsall, cutting torch, plasma cutter- whatever's handy, and then use a large drill bit to drill out remainder of pin enough that it no longer holds hitch into receiver good luck chris **edit** i just re-read OP, if you're not going to use the hitch, why not just unbolt the whole hitch support bracket from the unibody rails?? 4 bolts (or so) and you're good to go . . .

WOW, here's a bit of engine trivia material! The DMC-12 was powered by this . . . http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PRV_engine a 6 cylinder (explains the slight underpower issue) Peugeot, Renault and Volvo co-designed engine . . .

so THAT'S how you do it!! you buy a soob, fix 'er up, snipy snip the brake lines, and then buy it back for 3% of what you sold it for . . . i'm on to your plan now. :cool: [\going out to check XT6 brake lines] chris

maybe mine was just "special" in any case, its good to read that freeze plugs aren't a huge deal, i've never had to deal with one before (doesn't really get cold enough 'round here) and even if it's a head gasket, with the lack of background on the car, this will be a good opportunity to do a bottom to top complete gasket and belt change, water pump, etc. not something you look forward too, but it's gotta be done eventually! chris

it really is a different world back east isn't it?! west coast, EA series car bits in wrecking yards are a staple, right next to the old civics and corollas, usually at least 3 or 4 good parts cars to choose from . . . sometimes you can even be picky about colors congrats on the parts!! if it ever comes down to it, let me know when you need something you can't find back east, and i'll ship it out to ya . . . (you know, when its something really important and it makes sense to ship . . .) chris

There is something very subaru-ish about owning that car . . . so unique, yet not crying out "look at my midlife crisis" (like with an italian, german, old mopar, 'vettes, etc.) very cool :cool: chris

well, at least we've got you agreeing, somewhat blunt is good, disinformation is bad (but not happening here, it was a simple item to add to his checklist, note that i made it clear to check my idea after doing the comp test) and +1 on the diagnosis that it will be, and usually is, a headgasket issue (hopefully not any worse than that, popped freeze plug does not sound fun ) goodluck subynewbie, keep us updated!! and, Welcome to the USMB

sorry, i'm always gettin those two cornfused :-\ why'd ya hafta show the pics of me burying your car (while driving in a straight line, on flat ground). . .? chris

here ya go . . . anything to help

hookay, if you say so. i've only had it actually happen in a car exactly like the Op's car, but obviously what i actually witnessed with my own two eyes must be incorrect. what happens if the car sat for a week, month, etc . . . that water just sits there waiting, hoping someone will eventually crank the engine so it can be burned and expelled out the exhaust?! I can just see it now, those poor little water droplets, clinging on to the side of the cylinder for all they're worth (because otherwise they'd go thru the rings, and into the oil . . .) and what about option two, where you blow the gasket out between the water jacket and the air intake on the head? there's no way that water (with a dynamic viscosity of 1 mPa·s at room temp) might get thru the same rings that burn oil (let oil through, when it's minimum viscosity at 150*C is roughly 2.9-3.7 cP)?!!!! the OP never said the car was running, which is where you made your first mistake, ASSuming something. chris

here's the thread, start with post number 7 . . . http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87003 General Disorder is somebody who really knows these subaru engines, in case you don't recognize him from searching the forum . . . i think he's a subie tech at a dealership . . .(?) possibly your EA82 doesn't have these (mine was an 87)

i didn't know about it either, until after i'd reassembled everything and someone here pointed it out to me searching for post now . . .

Factory Service Manual makes no reference of using a sealant, it just says to install head with new gasket . . . and then lists the torquing procedure btw, did you replace the little oil seal in the head?

bingo, i never could remember where the "w" goes and at the time, i knew some type of grease was a bad thing, just not which, so i avoided all grease just to be safe . . .

this might be the quote of the month, i laughed so hard i cried if we had signatures (and no, i'm not trying to start that debate again) i'd totally have this post as my massive signature :lol: :lol:

i've always read that if you get a quality headgasket, no sealer is necessary, and it can do more harm than good. the only place i've ever used sealant is on the cam housing to head junction. *but, i've been wrong before* chris

with respect, yes it can. it will leak down into the compression chamer via the spark plug socket closest to the leak, and from there it's just a short dribble to the oilpan. it happend to me, exactly that way. it can also simply go from the intake manifold's water lines, into the head, right where the gaskets are, if the gasket fails correctly- just like a headgasket chris

this is what the factory service manual says to do also ^^^^ the rockers won't move once the cam housing is in place, i use a generous amount of 10-40w on the end of the lifter and inside the rocker's cup and they stay just fine till you can get the cam housing on

i had the exact same problem w my 87 gl carbed wagon, because the person who owned it before i did put the wrong disty cap on it (probably their parts store's fault, not theirs) look at the disty cap and the metal area on the disty where it mounts . . . my mounting area had two different sized metal tabs sticking up (at 12 and 6 o'clock) designed to allign the cap, but the cap didn't have the slots for TWO tabs, just for ONE- so the cap wasn't secured to the disty very well, and the car wouldn't run after i changed out the spark plug wires (cap had moved just slightly enough that the contacts no longer lined up) get the right cap, problem solved . . . chris

+1 on the comp test first . . . if you're lucky it could be as simple as replacing intake manifold gaskets (which you'll find once you do the coolant system test, after the compression test) chris

wow. i was going to suggest getting the rotors turned to save a few $$'s, but, yeah, wow. good news, new ones are only like $20-30 b.t.w.- your avi cat looks baked out of its mind chris

per FSM step one to 22ft-lbs step two to 43ft-lbs step three to 47ft-lbs the order of tightening is listed as well 1st inside center bolt (at 6oclock-ish, but up higher) 2nd and 3rd: top two bolts at (11 and 1 ish) 4th and 5th: inside bottom bolts (5 and 7 oclock) 6th and 7th: upper outside bolts (10 and 2) 8th and 9th: lower outside bolts (8 and 4 oclock) hope that helps, wish i could've figured out how to just paste the whole page!! chris