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alright, where's jeff? thats a big J/K jeff . . . but seriously, can i borrow some money for a new project?? :lol: :lol:

doesn't have to be gl10- one eye here on the board has a GL touring, and it's got manual windows and dual range, and i believe SPFI, so a more basic setup . . . that extra height in the back is pretty cool too, for haulin people or stuff . . .

no kidding . . . sheesh, if only it was worth the money an original Hemi Mopar was worth " . . .and the factory battery and oem washer fluid will be available to the winner of the auction, sir. (said in a snotty too-good-for-you voice ) maybe i outta have you weld a full outer skeleton on 'er, put a TOYOTA truck under the body and still call it a 90 subaru? chris

oh thats cool, never noticed that . . . (the usual, click on pics) ok, can we consider it "proven" now, or do i need a signed affidavit and blood sample from the Fuji Heavy Industries supervisor on duty that day? chris

as you request . . . clickey-pics my reflection, for those of you who are really skeptics tried to get one of the body tags, but those things reflect and are really faded, hope this one's clear enough . . . the photos of the whole car, are on my XT6 project thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87107&page=11 chris

i was a bit disappointed to discover that the car that i was told was a '91 when i purchased it (without title, it was just a gorgeous XT6, i didn't care :-\ ) was actually produced in 11\89 . . . < the moron part . . . then i remembered reading that very few, very very few (!) XT's of any kind were imported as 1990 Model Year cars. "could this be?" i asked myself . . . "no, you're just a moron who didn't bother checking the door plate for the M.Y. before you took a car home . . . there's no way" about 12 VIN decoder websites later . . . it appears (and a couple of other XT'ers have confirmed) that i have the only known at this time 1990 M.Y. XTanything in the USA. LG300010 is the last bit of the vin, decoded it means that i have car #10 of the XT line built in 1990. (i've read posts that put import numbers somewhere stupid low like 12 total 1990 subaru XT's according to the NHTSA- there's debate about the accuracy of that number- but in any case, its not a big number) ya know that feeling that you get once in awhile- the one that tells you that you are a better golfer when you play less, or that you did better at the poker tables when you were a n00b, that feeling that sometimes you over-think your way out of good things/situations . . . yeah, thats me right now. thank goodness i didn't know any better, i might've offered more than $200.00 for the car have a great day everybody!!! chris

hey jeff, kinda looks like the rearend of your XT really though, holy poo, that sedan is tall

ok zuki, here's about as dumb noobish a question as you'll get out of me . . . where's your reverse lights??? i don't see them in the bumper, and not on the center tail light panel . . . modified? i gotta agree w connie, if you're determined to mess up a perfectly good black hood (i'm jealous 'cause mine's got dings and dents ) then go with the turbo XT style vent/hood . . . chris

when you get that in depth, its really best to use some kind of piggyback fuel management system, i'm sure your problem just has to do with the fact that you've got this massive fuel and air supply which is outside of the ECU's adjustment capabilities, and it doesn't know what to do . . . heard great things about the megasquirt system for the money . . . check out this linkey for other options http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Nissan_240SX_Performance_Modification/Ignition_and_Fuel_Management/Aftermarket_ECU chris

no, that just means there's less metal to pay for = cheaper j/k sounds like you've got an XT6 that needs attention anyway chris

thanks for the PM tom! the only good thing is, for every one that goes down here (on the board) it helps rebuild or maintain 20 more! chris

ROFL, you can get away with a big fartcan, just take some hi temp paint and make it flat black or grey so it can't be seen, just heard an answer to OP's question, i've got a bosal (oem replacement company) muffler, but its one of their universal performance kind, and it gives me that throbby subaru sound that i love so much (sounds like an STi, but not quite as loud) you won't get too much sound (meaning, it won't be so obnoxious) out of a turbocharged car as long as you don't just strait-pipe it, because the turbo does a decent job of reducing sound as it turns the exhaust into boost . . . (like mellow65 said) chris

as a general rule, if you can feel it with your fingernail as you drag it across the scratch, it's not buff-outable :-\ as deep as it sounds from you description, the only fix (to make it look like it never happened) is going to be repainting the panels where the scratch is deep enough to feel. if you're just wanting to make it not so obnoxiously obvious, then the newest type of those little touch up paint tubes you can get at any car parts store have basically a large ball point pen in them. instead of dragging the brush down the scratch and getting un-even sloppy coverage, you just run the "pen" down the scratch and it leaves a pretty consistent trail of paint, only where you've "written" . . . or find somebody who's really good with an airbrush if it's clear thru to the metal, you'll want to do something (anything) about it asap, as those turn into nasty rust stripes in no time . . . the good news is that white is just about the easiest color to work with chris

happy bday sparks!! (it's gonna take this to light those candles soon >> ) chris

oh yeah! minor detail right out of the shoot, i jumped on the I-5 parking-lot in everett, it was kinda warm outside and i'm used to checking the temp gague on my wagon . . . on the XT6, it never moved above 1\4 she's got some surprising go power, my butt dyno got tuned pretty well when i owned my G35, and i like what i feel in the XT6 . . . it feels like it's been tuned already (i'm really not very informed about her past :-\ ) as soon as you blip the throttle, she goes . . . . . . . . . . very smooth/strong torque curve with a little bitty flat(ish) spot from 3700 to 4200 rpms, but i suspect that will work itself out with a few more miles . . . and with the magnaflow/flowmaster (i can't remember which) muffler on her, she really can howl at higher rpms, but is very civil in city driving . . . still having an issue with the electric steering system, it doesn't seem to work making the car a bear to drive in parking lots, but just fine on the open road. i also think it's the main cause of a substantial fluid leak and burn smell, i've got some kind of lubricant crusted and leaking all around the steering rack, dripping on to the cat . . . chris

Big day for Project "Back in Black" (used to have black fastguy car, now i've got another one!!) She's basically been on jack stands since i got her home (almost a month ago ) so i could easily access all the important stuff that needs to be addressed when you get an old car (so far i've replaced all fluids, R&R'd all 4 axles, removed rear air struts- aftermarkets that weren't put on very well- flipped the rear strut mounts for that extra -1" and re-assembled with new bushings, re-installed the complete rear interior that the previous owner removed, replaced the center tail-light section, and had new big tread all season tires put on the OEM wheels- i'll be putting on the cool guy wheels i got as soon as i can afford the tires!!)zzz Today i buttoned her up, and took her for "our" first real drive, from everett to burlington (to pick up my son from school). stopped by the car-wash on the way, and of course had to take some pics click-on-pics: Look how low she sits with the flipped strut mounts, and this is at 80psi air pressure for each rear strut, not back-breaker 0psi just to look cool now, imagine with these wheelzers!! :cool: (i need tires for 'em first :-\ ) fun day, beautiful day, perfect day for a drive chris

that sucks, sorry dude. nothing a bfhammer won't fix i owe you a beer b.t.w. chris

nothing worse than looking in your rear view mirror and watching an impending collision considering the size of what hit her, i'd say subaru 1, blind gmc owners 0 very good to hear everythings okay, i'm tellin' ya, the roads are a scarier place every day . . .:-\ chris

B.A. Hammer FTMFW!!!!!! hope i didn't break anything . . . eh- whatever, at least its on:grin: :banana: :banana: :banana: can a i get a hallelujah!? (a much happier) chris

yeah, that bearing sleve is definitely a culprit, filled the hub with lithium grease and can only get the axle as far thru as before (tip just about to the outside edge of the hub) time to try zukiru's idea i think . . . 2x4 and 'the persuader'

ok, i've got the computer in the garage now . . . (always dangerous) i cant get the hub stub off the end of the passenger side axle, i beat on it (beat on the bell it goes into, not the shaft itself), used pb blaster on it, even pryed gently with a short prybar . . . it won't budge. looking down the empty hub hole, it doesn't look like anything's dropped, but it wouldn't take much to get in the way . . . i'm gonna try some heavy grease in the on the bearing assembly to see if it won't stay in place and let the axle slide thru . . . wish me luck chris

1st, thank you to all who've tried to help. that being said, i REALLY need help with this, i need to get this car buttoned up and out of my garage. i'm a little grumpy today (haven't had my starbucks yet) so i'm very sorry if this sounds like i've got some sand in my- well, where it doesn't belong- but c'mon please!! i need help!! any suggestions from those of you who've replaced axles on any corner of any vehicle, please help!! knowledge and experience are priceless, please share with me so that i can, in turn, share with others (after i test it out:banana: ). thanks so much chris

it's not coming thru the hub nearly far enough to start to thread the castle nut (growwwwl)

if you think it can help, i'd love it, does it have a part number i could reference in the FSM?

atta kid! no more exemptions . . .