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Yo habla solemente la verdad, amigo . . . i only speekey da troot. (where's the emoticon with the sombrero anyways?!)

hey mang, maybe we need to type this up in Spanish too . . . chris

believe me, i've already climbed this hill . . . couldn't agree with the philosophy more . . . (my thread from last month) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86346&highlight=the+answer just don't think you have the numbers quite right . . . no big deal. chris

incorrect, this is saying you could get 500hp out of an egg if you had the $$, there are laws of physics that even money cant get you beyond . . .

with all due respect there is absolutely no way on this green earth you will get even 250chp on "the stock bottom end with forged pistons" the oil supply isn't there, the bearings will seize and the connecting rods will crumble . . .and thats just the start . . . it'd be really fun to watch though . . . you're talking about a 150+ hp gain from stock on a 100 hp engine.

i don't know, the 4G63 mitsu engine keeps on stompin cars with 4X it's displacement, but it's built like a friggin tank engine from the facory on the bottom end, so you can boost the poo out of it without it going bang - up over 1000hp to the wheels dyno'd by a few magazines . . . you can't even get a viper 7.3liter above that without major work and forced induction . . .

with as few important internal replacement parts out there as there are, it's gonna be tough to get 'er above 200hp at the crank even using a larger turbocharger like a TD04. these soob engines are just as, if not more, reliable than a straight 4 honda, but for one reason or another, the boxer platform just won't handle the revs as well. but if you really wanna know . . . from the bottom up: put in an oil pan with "sections" so that the oil won't slosh away from the p/u, have the rod balanced, get custom main bearings, con-rods, go with standard ea82 pistons for high compression, put rings into the block around each cylinder (as someone here has done), metal headgaskets, re-do head stud holes to accept an aftermarket head stud (nobody "builds" sets with the correct size and pitch of thread to just "bolt on" to an EA82), port out the valves a bit to improve airflow (just 2 valves per, not the greatest setup in the world for power) replace valvesprings with titanium springs (makes it harder to float the valves), coat all engine internals with one of the cool new products that help it with cooling and friction, greatly improve water and oil cooling in the engine with front mount intercooler, larger (dual core) radiator, external oil cooler, convert fuel rail to dual rail setup so that you don't starve that last cylinder and go bang, constant high output fuel pump, complete standalone fuel management system and boost controller . . . lets see, what am i forgetting . . . (?) maybe something like a NGK ignition system (incl coil/cap/rotor/wires) all of that and you'll be at 200hp at the wheels . . . maybe a bit more **edit** oh yeah, you'll need the spider intake manifold (or something custom built to get better flow into the heads) and at least 300cc injectors with a 5th on the t.b. just so you don't accidently run lean

okay, will double check before reassembly, i'm sure you are right . . . b.t.w., in case someone hasn't done so recently, thank you very much to all of you who take time out of your day/night to assist with questions and problems here on the board. i've seen a lot of "?" threads lately, and i've tried to help when i can, but there are definitely those of you out there who have a greater knowledge, thank you very much for sharing it. chris

kindof, i am "swapping sides" as well, and obiously the cage is meant to go in only one way (its very tapered on one end) but the inner race (cog looking piece ) measures out with a caliper to be symmetrical, and if you install it opposite end in from how you took it off, its obvious that the ball bearings dont sit in the same spot they've been wearing down for the last 17 years . . . i figure that can only be a good thing, no? i've got them in the "torn apart and cleaned" stage, so doing the inside won't require removing the outside again. i figure, ask questions twice, assemble once!!! chris

exactly. not a rare occurrence in todays "outsource everything" marketplace either. when i was selling chrysler/dodge's a little over a year ago, chrysler discovered that their main torque converter supplier screwed up, but only after that torque converter had been used in ALL of their LX platform cars (the 300's, magnums, and chargers) as well as the pacifica X-over . . . hundreds of thousands of vehicles . . . of course they didn't send out a recall, they just wrote up a TSB in case somebody had exaclty the right complaints about how their car shifted gears . . .sound familiar?! unless someone came in the door with a copy of the tsb, there was no guarantee that any work would be covered by the manufacturer, and service writers were pretty much told to keep the issue hush hush unless somebody made a big enough stink. i (being the grand stirrer of controversy, poker of bee's nest's and general PITA that i am) called all of my clients who owned these vehicles to see if they were having the symptomatic issues listed on the TSB, because i knew if they were to come in complaining about a general transmission issue on one of my days off, they wouldn't get "handled" the way they deserved. i hope subaru doesn't follow chrysler's practices in this issue . . .:-\ chris

couldn't be farther from the truth . . . its worth at least 2 cents and if it happens to be canadian, it's worth like 3.5 cents chris

ok, a question to everybody . . . i've got all four axles out of the car, and have rebuilt at least one end of each of them (the inside one on all of them was bad, interesting . . . ) i completely disassembled the exposed joints, cleaned them, and the flipped them to the "non torque" side as per a thread on subaruxt.com, also flipped the inside of the joint assembly (the cog looking piece that the driveline slides into) so that it will no longer be using the side/edge that had obvious signs of wear. question is, do i go ahead and rebuild the "non torn boot" side of each axle while it's out and i have the parts available? the non torn boots look fine, no cracks, not brittle but just a little dry on the outside. they could be the originals though (i don't see any branding or tool marks to tell me otherwise) so should i go ahead and remove the boot and clean up/re-grease and put a new boot on the functional ends? thanks in advance chris

you were saying how beautiful it was over here on your visit, sheesh- looks awfully gorgeous over in your "neck of the woods" car looks like it's at home already!!! chris

atta kid, looks even better now . . . chris

clear some space in your PM box . . . chris

rev-match for the next gear down . . . your 30 year old station wagon wasn't designed for F1 downshifts, but "blipping" the throttle to match the higher rpm's you will experience once it goes into the lower gear will help. change the trans fluid if you haven't already, maybe put some redline in it . . . (?) General Disorder knows a cool mixture to "refresh" tired manual transmissions too . . . chris

awd donuts baby, awd donuts . . . :cool: chris

all reports i've read (meaning "i don't know everything but . . .) have indicated that your fuel economy will suffer with the weber setup, greatly. on my carb'ed 87 wagon, i did simple things like . . . 1) replace/refresh ignition system, i.e. spark plugs, wires, coil, battery, cap and rotor (this was the biggest for my car, spark plug wires had resistance numbers off the charts, coil was ancient, as was the battery) 2) de-smog the car, remove charcoal canister, block off egr valve, definitely open up the exhaust. it doesn't have to be loud, just free flowing. (or, if you like (for environmental reasons), replace the filter in the charcoal canister, check function of egr valve and replace if necessary-definitely need to check for vacuum leaks if you go this route) 3) check for, and resolve any vacuum leaks 4) k/n air-filter, more air in, more oomph, as long as you've taken care of the air out part. 5) new fuel filter 6) new pvc valve 7) seafoam (cleans the insides up) all of these are good ideas when you pick up a 20+ year old car anyway, and they'll improve performance a bit too chris

rockauto.com if you're set on using the net . . . i've placed several orders with them and they've always been perfect, and fast. should have the same parts available online that you have to go to napa to get really nice looking avitar b.t.w. chris

they don't get better cared for then that one, thats for sure . . . love the pugs! congrats!!!! chris

i know. i'm sorry. i should've bought a buick :grin: chris

thats a toughie, i'm still trying to figure out if my interior is khaki, or grey . . .

did i mention i'm colorblind? when i bought my XT6 the seller told me it was green . . . turns out it's black- whatcha gonna do? j/k chris :cool: << just call me Ray (Charles)

HORRRAYYYYYYY ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

'Tex- that'd be great, thank you!! Connie- those look really good, especially on your silver car!! Jeff- yjou no breakey de truck today eh? eh, issa hokay, maybe tomorrow, yes? chris