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answers in blue (this is fun!!)

good day everybody! ok, so i need some help. badly. i removed all the axles on my 91 XT6 so i could replace torn boots and re-grease them. they all came off as solid 1 piece units. i read the USRM guide, and several other threads before i got started. to remove the rear axles, i used a 2x4 and sledge to pound the axle free of the hub, and then dropped the diff to complete the removal. now, i cant get the rears back into the hubs. i'm 99.5% positive that they're going back in the same side they came out of, as i labeled them before removal. i did swap the DOJ's once they were rebuilt, to use the "non torqued" side of the guts inside, but the DOJ isn't what i'm having so much difficulty with, its the CV joint end. the stupid things (because of the stupid operator ) won't go back into their hubs. ("go home stupid ball, don't you just want to go home?!" . . . the first one who can figure out where thats from is exempt from helping me with this thread ) i actually managed to get the driver's side rear in, but only because i was fortunate enough that the hub's stub part of the axle separated from the rest of the axle while i was pounding on it and even then, i really had to beat on the end of the stub to get it back in the hub. no such luck with the stub on the passenger's side, it won't come off the axle no matter what i do (and yes, i removed the spring pin) so short of pounding on the diff's end of the axle which just doesn't seem like a really good idear, i don't have any way to muscle it into the hub . . . none of the threads i read made it sound this difficult, what am i doing wrong?! how do i fix it? HELP axleless in everett . . . :-\

ahh true . . . so, what's the verdict Major?

they build these for 350z's and G35's (many companies, altered atmosphere is probably the best), i had an aluminum one on my G35 that helped out quite a bit. these can be made from all kinds of material, even fiber composite. dyno's on the VQ35 engine in the Z's and G's showed about a 7-10hp gain at the wheels with this mod, although the intake plenum design on their engines is poor from the factory in that it really gets no flow to the front 2 cylinders, and a "plenum spacer" helps out with this design issue substantially. it's kind of the same as doing a spider intake manifold swap on an old EA82 engine, it helps air flow into the cylinders, and allows more air volume to gather for the intake valves to use. i'd definitely be interested for my XT6, if the H6 design that you guys use for the newer gen H6's is similar enough to allow it . . . chris

hey, it was a joke . . . ya know? hahaha . . . sheeesh S.P.K. chris

i had this on my wagon as well, turned out to be a leaky intake manifold gasket which was slowly leaking coolant down into the plug socket on cyl 3, fouling the plug and getting into the cylinder. replaced intake gaskets, problem solved. just try not to get too much water in the cylinders when you remove the intake manifold, and then when you go to fire it up after the gasket fix, do the first crank without spark plugs, that way any water that finds it's way into the cylinders will be ejected out the spark plug holes, and won't hydrolock your engine :dead: chris

hey, bucky92 reccommended a "professional strength sticker and decal remover" in a blue can available at autozone if i remember correctly. she told me that it doesnt hurt the paint at all, and even on her new LB, with 25 y.o. trim glue/tape, it cleaned it right up . . . i've got a heat gun, and used it, the only problem is if there's no sticker there, just the crud that's left behind from an old decal, even with the heat gun you have to scrape at it a bit, which will leave marks in especially dark colors (like my black XT6) i just happened to ask her yesterdat because i have the same issue hope that helps chris

HEY!! this gives us a great excuse to re-tap the block to take a size stud that the aftermarket world actually builds!!! then we can run up the boooost to like 20psi (for a minute bfore it goes booooom ) lesss doooeeeeet! chris

i believe in religious circles it's called . . . blind faith give the car an oil change just to be sure . . . . and go buy lotto ticket chris

anything you can bring to check agains the new part, trace an outline around where it fits so that you can measure up the new one . . . something. it's the only thing that's worked for me (read: just my .02) because if Napa got it wrong the first time, could be that their reference books are wrong, and it's possible that any parts store would have the same wrong info (i.e. my oilcap example, napa and action autoparts both tried to give me the wrong part) good luck chris

i'll go down "De Nile" with you for a sec here . . . had you just added coolant to the radiator? revving itself can cause oozing, especially if the coolant level was just topped off, but all my experiences with that have been while the water pump was running, so . . . (?) do you have any other signs of bad H.G.'s? (like, is it a subaru turbo? )Milkey gunk buildup on oil cap . . . coolant smell in car when running heater, sometimes even getting condensation on the windshield when you first turn on the defrost setting . . . i'm sure if you drained the oil, you'd know for sure (water pools on top of the oil) . . . lotsa steam lately when you've been driving? chris

Napa's done this to me a few times, i finally learned that they always have the right part, if you show them the old one first!! my bet is that they've got what you're looking for, just bring an old one in with you, or at least a measurement for diameter, and double check the part before you leave. example: i went into 2 napa (and 1 other brand) stores looking for an oil cap for my 91 XT6. every time they'd say they had it, they'd try to hand me shallow metal cap, just like the ones that go on every EA81/82 i've ever seen. the problem is that the cap that goes on an XT6 (at least mine) screws directly into the head, near the valve cover. finally i just explained what it would look like and suggested that they try looking up the only other H6 from that era that i could think of. . . an SVX. sure enough, the right cap appeared. [/so proud of myself] chris

wow, that looks hhhot!! i hope the wheels i got for my XT6 look as close to that as i think they're going to . . . stupid tire places . . . i avoid schwabbies like the plague (unless i know somebody there) i took my pugs and brand new tires into discount tire and the mounted and balanced them for 12.00ea, even though the tires i got were the same as a tire they sold, i just found them much cheaper than they could sell them online . . . those are great looking wheels Rob!!!

is it really not possible to get an imported ER?! (i had no idea) there sure are a lot more aftermarket goodies for the EJ's!! i wonder about the wiring, because now you're not just going from old to new, you're going from 6cyl to 4 . . .? cybrid to non-cybrid might be a blessing chris p.s. i could always find out about the difficulty of the conversion from my friend in Oz who put that EJ dual o.h.c. engine in a 6, and then supercharged it

no. if you are doing an initial fill of the cooling system (like after flushing it) and you've topped off the radiator, you can expect constant drizzle of fluid out of the radiator as it "burps" the air out of the system, and especially when the engine gets to "operating temp" and the thermostat opens for the first time, then it really surges out for a second. but after that the level in the radiator should immediately fall, allowing you to re-fill that fluid that drizzled out. once you've done this, and waited a bit to make sure all the bubbles are out, put the cap on and, ta-da! you have a pressurized cooling system that will put any extra fluid it has into the overflow container - instead of dribbleing it out of an open radiator cap. chris **edit** you know this Evil, why am i explaining this to you?!

time depends on if the engine is in the car or out, but we should be able to knock it out in a day either way. if you had any dead lifters, might be a good time to find replacements, and of course timing belts/tensioners if those haven't been replaced recently (they've got to come off anyway). if you really want to do it right, plan for a couple of days without the car so that we can send the heads to be machined/cleaned up. pretty sure my engine is sold, sent off a pm just to verify pick up . . . but if for some reason it doesn't work out . . . there's an easy fix for ya hold off on ordering the parts (intake manifold gasket, headgaskets, valve cover gaskets, timing belt cover gaskets, etc.) until i'm more sure on my engine's status if you like . . . be glad to give you a hand regardless! chris

ah, thank you for the clarification GD. chris Major, if ya want some help, i'm just up the street.

sorry says quietly "don't hold your breath" [/audio_file]

sounds like a familiar blown headgasket story, but i could be wrong (i hope for your sake) although, the turbo on your RX might be pushing some water out (of it's cooling setup), i'm not sure how the coolant runs thru the turbo, but it would make sense if it's cycling water out as the exhaust spins it, it's gotta go somewhere . . . ? combine this with your cooling issues getting to that meet the other weekend . . . and things don't look pretty (head gasket) chris

yeah, its been stereoless for the past few days, the volt meter still dances, especially at start-up- but it doesn't seem to be as bad . . . (the lights don't strobe as much . . .) like i said, is it possible an issue with the alternator fried the stereo? an issue the alternator still has . . . (?) and can i replace the flux capacitor - - - i mean the voltage regulator in the alternator, or does the whole unit need to be replaced? chris b.t.w. thanks for all the help so far everyone!

yup, ground to ground on body/and neg on batt, pos to "downstream" (towards the stereo) of my inline fuse connection right there at the battery the stereo harness shows 12.8+ volts when multimeter ground is tied to stereo's ground (that i put in, dedicated) and positive lead is tied to dedicated power line from battery - but only when the stereo's harness isn't plugged into the actual stereo (just hangin out there in the dash) when in this arrangement, the 2.6 volts doesn't show up if you do the first test at the battery again. but, if the stereo unit is plugged into its harness, the measurements at the stereo change (w unit off- because it won't turn on ). if you poke into the stereo's power in where that line is connected, and the neg into the ground just like before, it doesn't read 12.8 volts anymore, it reads . . . ready for it . . ? . . . 2.6volts :-\ so something in the stereo is changing the voltage, clear back at where the power comes into the unit!! i don't get it. and as far as the voltage regulator goes, is that something i can replace (like the brushes) without buying a new alternator or no?

does an EA82T require something unique . . . because there are many universal oil coolers out there, you just have to decide where you want it mounted, and where your line in and line out are going to be if you really wanna go crazy, you get a thin 12v cooling fan that mounts on either side of the cooler to push or pull air thru it.

i love stories like this!! (sounds exactly like things ive done, recently ) mark up another one for the good guys!!

no, please explain . . .

hi everybody!! i'm resurrecting this because i know i've got and issue, i just don't know which it is after doing some searching . . . on my 87 gl EA82 3AT carb'ed wagon w/118k . . . my voltmeter in the car started bouncing a few days ago, and the lights (interior and exterior) started to "strobe" with the voltmeter. (a lot like the x-mas tree stories above ^^ but without the red lights) its like my car is having a party and i'm not invited any time you are not accelerating or raising rpms, the voltage meter starts to bounce not just move, bounce- like a monte carlo on 100 spokes . i plugged my multimeter into the elec. system and had these results: in the morning, before turning car on, my optima red top showed just under 13v at the battery. turn the car on without running any accessories and the battery starts to gain voltage, up to about 14.7 and then fluctuates like the voltage meter on the dash, rapidly going between 14.2 and 14.8 and never more or less than that. turn on accessories with the car running, and the voltage kinda evens out, the same way it does when the car is accelerating . . . staying around 13v, how do i know, because the dash's voltmeter stays right in one spot, doesn't move. measured the voltage from output on alternator vs. ground on batt and on car and the multimeter says 14.4 14.5 almost always. but if you measure it at the battery, there's much more fluctuation my multimeter only goes up to 10amps, so i don't know how to read the amperage outputs at the alternator. the really frustrating part is that i'd just installed a new alpine cd player, and somehow- this has fried that. didn't blow the little fuse on the unit or the big one in the power line, just killed the cd player (i ran a dedicated, fused power in and dedicated ground and still get nada = toast, right?) one more thing, if you unplug the 12gauge power wire that i ran to the stereo and put a multimeter on it at the battery's end while it's still plugged in on the stereo end, the multimeter reads 2.4 to 2.6 volts, coming from the stereo that otherwise just sits there, dead!! (?) i've been over the stereo wiring over and over again (ran dedicated speaker wires too, clear to each speaker) looked at the grounds in the engine bay, measured voltage (or lack thereof) just about everyplace i can think of. so . . . is there any more info you need? is this alt related, voltage reg related or other?!!! after 2 days of trying to track this down, it's really starting to fry my dome, and it seems like each person's elec problem threads are unique, i haven't found one that sounds closer to my problem than this one . . . HELP chris