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yeah isnt the replacement intervel for the t-belt 105k......i would say you still have some life left out of the water pump......

prob. not going to be easy but the junkyard.......

this is just what is sounds like to me....it could very well be something else.......do a search or look at the bottom of this thread were the "related threads" are located and it should give you a good definition of piston slap as well as other valve train/ engine noises.....in short i believe there is excessive clearance when the engine is cold and makes the piston kind of slap against the clyinder walls....once everything warms up and expands everything seats well and the noise is gone.......

no the condenser is in front of the radiator......... thats amazing....i always presumed that you would have to pull the dash to replace the evaporator.....thanks for the info.....

sounds from what you said like it could be a piston slap......its there when its cold and gone when it warms up?......

not sure if this matters but.....OBD vs OBDII

yeah i def. second aircraftengineer on that........just curious did you have to remove your whole dash to get the evaporator out?

that is correct 105k.......

i do understand the want to learn.......i just finished an automatic trans class in school and if i learned one thing about rebuilding an automatic trans is that EVERYTHING has to be perfect and precisely measured.......i was kind of bummed though because i had to rebuild a 4L60E trans out of a chevy k1500 instead of a Subaru 4EAT.......there all basically the same anyway......

if it is just a real loud humming i still sticking with noisy tires......i know my tires on my old saturn were very loud even after they were worn in......to check you wheel bearings you can jack up the front of the car and grab the tire at 12 and 6 oclock and rock it back and forth......do the same thing at 3 and 9 oclock....if you have excessive movement in both directions chances are that your wheel bearings are going bad.......

ok im assuming you got the rotor off......now you can put the caliper bracket back on.......than you have to depress the piston back into the caliper.....this is done by placing one of your old pads in the same position in the caliper it was when you took it off and taking a large C clamp and placing it around the back of the caliper and the pad and start to twist away.....there might be some resistance just keep twisting and once the piston is all the way in you can remove the c clamp and the old pad....grease the back of your new pads and put them in the caliper and plop the caliper on the new rotor....(when you depress the piston make sure you dont damage the piston boot and also make sure the piston is flush with the caliper before you remove the c clamp or else you will be fighting to get the pads around the rotor).....i dont like using the c clamp method so i bought this handy tool from pepboys the other day....... http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/rodi_1997_47968490

as long as you feel confident go ahead and do them.....granted they are pretty difficult to get to.....just use an extra long extension dont overtighten them.........how many miles are on your subi. and how long have those plugs been in there?

no you can keep it in park.......but just make sure the emergency brake is off or you will never get the rear rotor off.......do you see any little screws around the wheel stud area?.....if not go ahead and hammer away.....they get pretty rusted on there sometimes and there pretty hard to get off......

than again you do have 205,000 miles on the car......

i am assuming you have the caliper and the caliper bracket off?....anyways if both of those are off make sure the parking brake isnt engaged than (assuming your replacing the rotors) just wail on them with a hammer and they should come off........sometimes there is a little screw around the lugnuts but my legacy doesnt have one.......

...im going to say that the humming you are hearing is either hearing you wheel bearings or your tires......do you have like a snow or mud tires on your impreza?.....how many miles are on the car?......i would say its to new to need wheel bearings....if i were you and you have access to a jack and jackstands or a lift i would get under there and see if there is anything visable that is missing or damaged........but you do say that its not to noticeable at 50mph +...........usually with wheel bearings and aggresive tread tires it gets noiser at higher speeds.........but my first step would be to do a visual inspection

and it only happens when you brake........do you feel any pulsation in the brake pedal when you brake?........right off the bat im going to say that you have warped front brake rotors......

ok are you talking about the steering wheel shimmying or the actual wheels themself.....either way i would get under there and just take a look around for any loose/damaged or missing steering/suspension parts......also check your brake pads and rotors....do you notice your brake pedal pulsating at all when you stop?

i have a set of kumho ecstas on my 96 legacy and as you mentioned i havent had much success with them in the rain or snow.........but for dry conditions they couldnt be better......

yeah i mean i kind of took a shot in the dark there.....but whenever your CEL is flashing its not something you want to avoid or cover up with a piece of electrical tape (which i have seen done)

sure you can use aftermarket pads and rotors....i got mine from NAPA......i have 192,000 miles on my 96 legacy and as far as i know they are the original calipers.....

ok so if your absolutely sure that all the timing marks are lined up.......are you sure its the original engine from 1995 in the car?.....im sure someone has said this but also make sure they didnt unplug/damage the crank or cam sensors.....the cam sensor is right under the oil fill neck and the crank sensor is directly under the alternator.....im also assuming you counted the teeth on the timing belt between the cam and crank sprocket marks......i believe it should be 44 teeth between the crank sprocket and the right hand cam sprocket and 40.5 teeth between the crank sprocket and the left hand cam sprocket..... you could do a compression test or a leak down test to see if you have bent valves......but i believe it is next to impossible to do on this engine MY

if you have the money and feel it would be a good idea..go for it.....but if there are no leaks around the brakes lines or the caliper itself and you know it still works that i would say its kind of pointless to replace the caliper........if it was me i would just do pads and rotors.....than again i dont know how many miles are on the car.......

im assuming your talking about the caliper bracket thats bolted to the hub......i believe its 2 bolts......

usually the only thing that will make the CEL flash on/off is a misfire severe enough to damage the catalytic converter.........not to sure how it is on newer cars and chances are im wrong here but if the PCM detects a misfire than my line of thinking may be that "well since you have a misfire lets disable the cruise control so he cant damage his engine/cat".......thus the CEL and cruise control lights come on again chances are i am wrong about the above theory...... im sure others will chime in......