EVOthis

also remember when you get the car down and drive it the piston will push back out of the caliper when you brake to seat the pads...it sometimes looks like alot of room in there......

alright well it looks like im not going to buy an amp after all.....tryin to save some money right now..........thank you cougar for you knowledge though.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Twin-Turbo-sedan_W0QQitemZ150239108211QQcmdZViewItem only prob. i see is that its automatic.......

alrighty.....finally got new speakers in my subi......i would like to install a coaxial speaker amplifier....ive picked out the amp... i just a few simple questions about the wiring....... things i understand 1) RCA cables go from back of head unit to amp 2)i have a distribution block for my other amps so i have the power wire 3)i have a good ground 4) going to jump REM wire from other amps Things i dont understand 1) when im running the wires from the speakers to the amp.....CAN I GO TO THE BACK OF THE HEAD UNIT AND JUST SPLICE INTO THE SPEAKER WIRES AND RUN THE SPLICED WIRES TO THE AMP? I appreciate your time and help here.....

one test i have always felt is reliable to check the MAF is....with the engine running take the butt end of a screwdriver or use your fingers and tap on the MAF....if the engine stumbles or stalls....well than you have a bad MAF sensor......

+1^.....i agree....about 2k is all i would go up to.........

i was watching or reading something the other day about hybrids......they said they are really dangerous because they are so quiet.......people cant here them coming aparently......

also make sure the car is warmed up when you do the figure 8 as said above by nipper ......my torque bind prob. only occured when everything was up to operating temp......

high mileage but as long as it was well cared for......i would buy it if i had 12k......

thats cool....glad u got it all figured out....or if you have the broken nipple you could JB weld it back on.....

give me a sec and ill take another pic......ok it goes down over the unit and kind of attaches on the bottom/side of it........

take a look...is it the vacuum tube in the center of the Pic.? if so it wraps around and attaches to the back side of the cruise control cable which is attached to the firewall.....look on the backside of the black circular thing (attached to the firewall) with the cruise control cable coming out of it......at least this is how it is on my 96' legacy L

http://www.cars101.com has alot of info on it for all subarus......from what i got from there you should inspect it rather than replace it .......inspect at 30k miles and 90k miles....but under extreme driving replace every 24k miles......so if this was my car i would change it prob. every 40-50k miles......how many miles are on your outback?......Oh and Welcome to the board!

from what i have read on this board it seems only OEM axles and MWE axles are proven extremely reliable on Subis.....but i bought a new front, no name axle about 1.5 years ago for my 96' legacy from autopartswarehouse.com and havent yet run into one problem.........

Nice! ive been to maple grove a few times to see the Jet Cars run....its about 1hr.15 min from me.........

im about 15 min. from the delaware border about 45 min southwest from philadelphia.......it said you were from PA and you got a Subi so why not give her a shot.....

yes welcome.......which track do you usually go to? Ive never run my car since mechanically its basically stock....but they have pretty slim pickings when it comes to Subarus at cecil county dragway.........

yes mine is a 1996 legacy 2.2 liter with a 5 spd. manual trans.......its not that bad to replace in the car.....you just need time.....yeah you can take a look at my past threads ive started...there is one that discusses my torque bind problem.....i think WAwalker helped out with step by step directions with pictures of what to do........

sounds like torque bind to me.....i also had this problem on my 96 legacy at about 190,000 miles......from what i understand this type of condition is caused by a worn Viscous Coupler located in the tailhousing/transfer case bolted to the rear of the transmission......i remember pricing one for my 96' at my local Subi dealer and part cost would have set me back about $550 (if i did the labor myself)........i never got around to gettting it or putting it in becuase i had other trans problems and decided to just throw in another used low mileage trans.......oh also another sign you can get with a worn out VC is the tires dragging/screeching when you turn.........to see if it is your VC you can just unbolt/remove the rear driveshaft and take her for a spin......if the binding goes away chances are youve got a bad VC......

the MAP sensor is located on the passangers side shock tower ( at least it is on my 96' Legacy).....i dont believe they would be related (but lord knows electricity does some weird stuff)......did both of the codes set at the same time? I also believe that the knock sensors on this year/model are prone to cracking on the side that contacts the block......

i had a similar noise it was mainly in 1st and 3rd gears......but i lost 4th gear and just decided to replace the trans before i could investigate the noise......i would like to see what you find out?......good luck......

Nice!......is that 270K on the original motor and trans?....

Nice!

read the endwrench article above.......it should tell you exactly what to align.......the marks on the cams get aligned with the marks on the rear t- belt covers and use the hash mark on the crank.......if i were you i would print out the article and go step by step......its very easy to mess up the t-belt on these engines because of all the marks on the pulleys.....once you believe you have it on correctly i would go back and count the teeth (i believe between the mark on the passangers side camshaft sproket and the mark on the crank sproket there should be 44 teeth and between the mark on the drivers side camshaft sproket and the mark on the crank there should be 40.5 teeth).....i always count teeth before i crank her over just for my peace of mind........you can start the car with the belt covers off and the drivebelts off and everything.......i just dont like to run it very long..........good luck......( oh and i believe there is more than one timing belt article for the 2.2 on http://www.endwrench.com so there may be some more pointers there.......good luck!....

i would double and triple check everything.......esp. the vacuum lines......make sure you hooked everything back up.......i have heard of people accidently leaving the line to the IAC undone..... than again i dont know exactly what you messed with....i took my intake off because i did the passangers side rear o ring.........