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ah thanks......ill try it again tomarrow after work.....

ok....so i got some seafoam today along with some TB cleaner....i go under the hood, just undo the air box (didnt remove it) and undid the hose to the IAC....almost immediately the car stalled.....i tried it like 4 or 5 more times again almost immediately stalled.......what is this telling me about my IAC......tomarrow i will get my buddy just to hold some gas on while i spray the cleaners through it.....just wondering if this means anything?.....

thanks for the tip....i was told to test the MAF....you run the engine and just tap on the MAF with like a screwdriver and if you car stumbles or stalls than your MAF is bad and if it doesnt do that than the MAF is fine.....

someone up there had to be watching over him.......

cold/moisture does some weird things .....as for the wipers and cig. lighter this may sound really stupid but it could be normal.........

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96558 .......thats what i bought......some of the adapters are insane sizes...but i had a few extra ones from a tool sale a while back......i could be mistaken but on my 96 legacy it was i think a 21mm for the inner tie rod.

thanks a bunch porc....before i go digging around in the junkyard ill try and give her a good cleaning tomarrow...(not trying to spend any more money than i have too)....appreciate the help as always......

on the subject....i just picked up an inner tie rod tool from harbor freight for like $50 it came with all kinds of adapters and a nice case....i thought it was a pretty good deal!

so just pull the hose off the intake that goes to the IAC, spray some seafoam in there while the car is running, let it idle a few minutes, than spray some throttle body cleaner in there? you mean i dont have to take the whole IAC off?

thanks porc. its a very complex like low idle intermitent...unexplainable you have to see it kind of deal...i made a post on it a while back but i dont even think i got one reply.......nonetheless......i believe it is sticking open or closed a little bit.........if i do remove the valve to clean it how important is it that i get a new gasket? ( i really dont want to make a trip if i dont have to)....also how exactly do you clean it?.....thanks for the help

Ok ive got a 96' legacy ej22 with a 5 spd....i know ( or at least i think) that the IAC Valve on the 1.8 and the 2.5 engines are part of the throttle body....my question is....are there any differences on the 2.2 liter engines.....ex : could i swap an IAC from any other year 2.2 liter and put it on my 2.2?.....im making a junkyard run tomarrow and just trying to get some advice..... ( dont feel like paying $350 for a new IAC from the dealer......thanks in advance.....

....they do share the same fluid ....that is the dipstick for the gear oil in the trans. you are seeing.....

how did you come to this conclusion?

NOOOOO poor suby!

yeah..... i prob. wouldnt put that back on any car.......

i was just thinking about that.....i do assume it is possible......there are way smarter people on here..... im sure they will chime in and be able to tell you more. im not that familiar with the H6 as of yet.....

i would have him take it back and there should be some kind of code stored in the computer if the CEL is on.....(im not to sure how it is outside the US.......with OBD 2)...nonetheless he should have a scanner and be able to tell you what the CEL means.....

i believe the only time the CEL should blink is when there is a SEVERE misfire.....do you smell it burning rich? (fuel smell) did you do the job or did you have a shop perform the work?

be careful man....thats what my subarus previous owner did with my subaru and it messed them up bad....started bottoming out the struts and every time I turned the steering wheel or went over a bump the spring would pop off the perch and rub against the tire..... I ended up drilling through the strut perch and putting about 7 or 8 industrial stregth zip ties on there....I eventually replaced the springs and struts.....the springs i bought were not specifically made for my model year and they worked great for me... .....if its your beater car great...but i would not recommened cutting your spings.....good luck though with whatever you decide to do.....

also easy thing to check is that the connectors for the fuel injectors are in the correct spots......

yes...please keep this updated....im really interested to know what they find out.....

i have INTRAX springs on my 96' legacy...they worked great dropped it like 2 inches.....good price too at only like $240.....plus they came with a little sticker for your car....

ditto!

the flywheel was heat scored and cracked....the car had 180000 miles on it so i figured it was prob time for one....also it was only like 80$ all the parts i got were Sachs with the exception of the clips for the throwout bearing which were from subaru.....the only thing i noticed before the clutch job was obviously the clutch was slippintg unbelieveably bad...i dont believe i heard a noise or anything......im not really that concered with it.....since i know everything tested ok when i put it in....its just annoying....

on the subject of the throwout bearing.....i just replaced my clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and pilot and throwout bearings (with new clips). I have the exact same noise when in neutral and goes away when i push in the clutch......is it normal to have that noise at all even if it is a new release bearing?