True2Blue

yes on the ASV being a source of backfiring no its not a pressurizer i know this now i was reading bad info. on decel the engine creates alot of vacuum, the asv is hooked up to an intake vacuum line, so on decel the asv is opened allowing atmosphere air to enter the exhaust to counter the radical emission changes usually rich mixtures (lean it out)...

we are already kickin and yes i stayed and rejoined the army so its a win lose lol i can still deploy its w/e as far as a system im going all shallows i want the space IF i do go big ill go orion but its not likely i can get enough umph from comp pioneer shallows

for the equasion to be worked you would need stock specs for: length of trailing arm then the lift in inches if you drop the trailing arms with the strut your okay. 1 degree is normal for most cars to gain/lose due to thrust. positive .5 goes to the front and negitive .5 goes to the rear since your going positive in the rear.... if you lift your rig 4" at with a trailing arm measuring 28.65" (30") your gain it 2 degrees per inch NOW this is directly related to a arm and swing arm equations so having a trailing arm and strut makes things a bit more difficult to equate. you affect your caster more than anything else. if you drop your trailing arms with your strut you are golden if you put on bigger wheels remember you gain for every inch so go off of your stock specs, gain in wheel circumference is gain in camber unless trailing arm is depressed. so not to run in circles... trailing arms mainly affect caster unless they are set at their own positive or negative "camber" degrees. take the basic 28.65"=2 degree gain/loss and cut it in quarters because the trailing arm does not have the camber change of an a arm it has about 1/4.. so a 4" lift with a 30" trailing arm and 27" tires (3" gain from stock tires) 1.75" offset would be a good answer

what seems "better" a lifted gl with a ej22 or a lifted iobs with a d/r... 4-6"

ive done this to every subaru ive owned just cause i like it heres my last NOTE: i later added that keyed switch eliminating my steering coulomb setup the key gave everything power the button was on the starter circuit only the little red switch was for my fanct lights for the switch and tweeters the button and "custom" switch which i dont have pictured but its awesome Before the ignition toggle (had a main power kill (hidden) as well) i was using the key until i did this. after... ignore my stupid commentary please this just has the operation of the switch in it and to make my shift boot look better on my behalf heres the finished product. yes that is coach

i know i clumped them together but i meat the mistu and ram 50. ive ownd both. not too bad.. the 50 got slammed with a 383 & 700r (3500 stall) swap b&m bump shift kit w/reverse lockout air cleaner flew off when i left my left my buddys honda (going 120mph, my speedo wasnt hooked up i wanted to test the.. um.. clear coat integrity) in the dust. sorry GD ill keep on my toes a bit better

Air Suction Valve or anti afterburn system backfires....... GD is good but lets give you more options spark plug gap is incorrect weak valve spring/sticky valve the disty need adjustment or replacement more can be listed when you close the throttle or let off suddenly the engine is running rich at high rpms which causes backfiring because the high flow of air/fuel passes through unburnt to the exhaust and which is soon to be ignited and backfire. fresh air in you exhaust will cause backfiring any leaks as GD said will cause this when you let off the throttle to shift there is negative pressure which sucks fresh air into the exhaust and pop backfires understanding these things or having them explained should really help you pin point and fix it. LOUD or erratic back firing is a timing issue most commonly its worn wires grounded wires or failing coil not firing means lots fuel build up in the exhaust which gives you the loud POP's let me know if you need help - Kody

i like them they arnt too noisy or square feeling on pavement good in the mud and gravel pits too 4" sjr lift trimmed fenders 235/75R15 maxxis big horns

already stated isuzu has the 6 lugs so does Chevy Toyota Dodge ram 50 ran them Mitsubishi ran 6 lugs dodge ram 50s have nice crome "steelies" i had old chevy 5 slot mag alloys on my wagon i tossed the center caps tho. escalade runs 6 lugs (Mitsubishi the mighty max dodge ram 50 and isuzu pup (all the same damn truck) owners that lower their trucks usually bolt up escalade rims oh and yes in 15" they are "car-like" rims hub caps can go on all of them except the escalade rims

you werent kiddin thats how i like to keep my rigs just beautiful most people dont like em unless their lifted, its a subaru thing for sure. i LOVE the 87-92 ea wagons

heres my two cents conventional oil is good its cheap. i like Valvoline as well but its on you to decide. i asked this question years ago on this board and i was told 10w or 15w-40 would be good for worn/ticking engines. i ran it and it was okay. hyperlube works best for ticks btw. ive been wrenching for 6 years now and 4 of them as a "professional" in the army (guard and reserve but title 10 (active) mostly) ive done my homework. i am POL and hazmat certified... im not a engine expert or super tech there are lots of guys on here that are more knowledgeable than myself on engines but im no dummy.. i always help when i can... full synthetic is spendy but best in my opinion because: 1) we wont run out of it (its created in a lab) 2) its thin and thick (comes in all weighs, duh i know) but has awesome viscosity without passage clotting in extreme temps 3)it has a higher boiling point (500 degrees) AND a greater resistance to evaporation ive seen what conventional's do to the internals when they get hot. looks like an oven drip pan, which in time clogs the oil passages and gunks up the the oil pump, eventually killing your engine because good maintenance like chemical flushes won't get all of the cooked oil (gunk) out lets be honest how many guys on here chemically clean their engines?..................................... with all that said my recommendation is (good for turbo engines as well) : 5w40 full synthetic WHY 5w40? quick and simple 5w = the oils viscosity at 32°F 5w is good for cold starting 40 = the oils viscosity at 212°F 40 "w" is thick enough to keep everything thats "old 'n' worn" smooth and operational so if you think about it you have a BIG change in the oils molecular structure that seriously protects your internals at the extremes that you will be putting your vehicle through AND if you advance your timing for that "peppyness" which makes the engine run a bit hotter the oil WONT BURN thats my 2 cents - Kody

it does the job so far. the boss wants to put another one in like this which will be good for exhaust work and everything else or current lift covers up my moms boyfriends shop (where i did all of my work in Shelton) has two of those lifts. after i buy my old subaru back ill put ALOT of my money into tools. the matco guy gives me discounts cause im a veteran. do you have pics of ur ride on here?

damn you know what most of this weekend ill be busy at fort lewis i wont be staying over night tho (i joined the reserves so i have drill but im in processing)

nothing yet probably fixin little things on my wifes car. you can come out our website has or address konictechnology.webs.com im not completely set up yet i hoping to get a matco or craftsman master mechanics set soon we will see if the army will loan me the money few rules: if you pack it in you gotta pack it out "friends" work must be done on my off time so the boss doesn't ask questions (unless your a common face and he doesn't care) no drugs replace what you use (if you use an entire can of carb cleaner kinda thing) thats really it, everything else is common sense and the guys on here well most of the guys on here have that other then that bs its pretty lax around here i plan on gettin lounge material (couch, TV, i already have computers and internet) to make hangin out wrenching and whatnot more comfortable.

laugh now! i don't really drink and when i do its mikes hard lemonade but the fun of making old ru's new and improved serves just as good. it would be nice to have company with the same interests as well. anyways i work from 6:30 "7" to 4 then its my time at the shop sometime the boss man will come over to knock some stuff out with me till 10-11pm ish

is there anyone close to my new residence? (maple valley wa) i lost contact with my only real buddy (you gotta come visit don i have an auto shop to play in now) on here due to my move. im lookin for some more "local" friends

this is exactly what ill be doing here real soon. i did some research and you can "mod" the d/r with a 4.11 AWD pinion shaft. this lets you run 4.11's giving your engine a break and seemingly more power. i have the link to the build page if needed.. ill be doing as much as i can to give it all the HP the drive train (axles, lift,tranny & diff and whatnot) can handle ADDING AM cams valves & springs 6 angle seat grinds true port and polish turbo (maybe) unless i get a turbo'd obs you get the idea id like to know what ya have in mind. i cant wait to start my build

thats because IF you get pulled over and the cop (doesnt like the way you look or decides to be an a**h:rolleyes:le) inspects your car (modified exhaust is illegal in the state of Washington) and decides to give you a ticket for your modified exhaust you will most likely fight it go to court and hand the judge your paperwork/receipts of the modified exhaust done by a professional shop which in turn they get the hammer for performing illegal modifications on automobiles in the state of Washington. its not likely but it can happen it happened to me with my brat although i did the work myself i got a ticket for having a modified exhaust. (i do my research on auto and gun laws here in wa by federal state county and city levels) as for helping you with the exhaust... your best bet is to acquire a o2 sensor on CL (i dont know about on usmb but part yards around here are cheap) match a "nut" to the sensor then mark your spot with the exhaust "hooked up" where there will be no interference, drill it out weld nut over hole and wala you have a o2 bung. i know you already know how to do it i dont mean to insult you but where i was going (i dont suspect you have a welder) is mark it and take it to a weld shop the rest is hstory

oh im not down grading i just need the hatch space for work (tools) so shallows are goin in:grin:

yes Miley ann cannaday was born june 22nd well the guy said i can buy it back (he sold the stereo and took the lights out?) i want it but im hesitant... i love it but i have more expensive wants and he SOLD THE STEREO:eek: here soon im going to buy a 96-98 outback sport lift it with a dual range (put better WAY stronger bumpers on it which means some crazy tube bumpers that will make the local yota owners jealous, small roof rack and some Nice hella or kc lights up top, nice stereo without 150lbs of subs, snorkle and waterproof the engine, and some mudders)

no i moved out. im at a place on lake sawyer in black diamond/maple valley right now. i know ill see ya again. i have a few ideas for projects lined up that will be a must see. so are you looking to lift your wagon?

doin good. my deployment got canceled after i moved out so now im in maple valley. just got a job at an auto shop here too. a guy that had made plans (two years) to open a shop had his buddy bail on him, he found my resume so now im opening it with him. Matco is stopping by the shop today and once cash flow is good im all subaru. how have you been? oh i made a website check my new 2nd home out (the shop) konictechnology.webs.com

what more do you have to do?

in a few months ill be lifting a obs. best way to lift it is put it on a lift/jacks and drop everything (front and rear suspension, engine/cross member and tranny) moch up spacers and see if you like it youll be able to see what you need to do to make it work like extensions to brake lines and steering knuckle. a lot easier said then done but i have found on here its sometimes easier to just get out there and do it instead of internet foul play. i skipped 3 pages cause i got tires of reading after the first since it was an argument... are you trying to lift the rig or beef it up with heavier suspension?

nice ride man.. i love the bumpers!