Zefy

hehe this is going to be cool... i don't really know how you plan on setting it all up, but it'd be kinda cool to have a 4wd trans then run an electric motor from the input shaft then two more on either side from the fwd stubs... then have a rwd 3 engine suby!:-p

hehe what fun... alright this is my 79 brat... cheers! alright... deck with stock clock still in there and working... and of course the RX seats... (free of course...) aaaaaand last the custom sub box with a 12'' pioneer sub with two alpine 6''x9'' speakers... amp for the sub is under the passenger seat... excuse the mess... my car needs a solid vacuuming...:-p and as of today i have made aluminium shift knobs for it... 4sp shifter still needs some final touches(its got a rough finish right now) but i'll take pics when i get home...

this thing is gonna be wicked when its finished! i can't wait...

hehe i shift between 4k-6k (more towards the 4k mark) pretty much every shift... and my car is 27 years old...:cool: i too am supposed to run 90 octane...(so says MY owners manual:grin:) buuuuut 65hp isn't performance either... mind you i do notice an inprovement in mileage and power with the higher octane fuel... but since i don't pay for my gas most of the time i fill up with good ol' 87... these cars can take a some of the worst beatings and then some... you shift SO low... do you even get going the speed limits? does the 90 year olds with thick glasses in their big ol' crown victoria's pass you?? heh i'm joking calm down...:-p drive it more agressively for a month or so and see how you like it... and hey your wife doesn't like the growl?! wait... ya that kinda makes sence...:-p

could it be from hot air being trapped in the head from lack of coolant...? making a 'hot spot'??? i've never heard of a hot spot melting anything like that though! this deserves a high 5!:cool: (drove it all the wa home... AMAZING!) we'll all give you huge amounts of high five if you drive it like that for the rest of the week...:-p

actually you don't need either... its always nice, but deffinatly not a requirement... (and ya... bring money...:-p ) although if the person isn't a board member and they don't own a suby, they'll want to after that weekend! OHHHHHH I'm so getting my buddy geoff to come! (he just so happens to be one of the top navigators in BC...:cool:) its gonna be a blast! hope i bring the brat again this year...

i'm waiting for the day when i can do such a rescue! tow rope and hitch alllllll ready to go! i just need some sorry person with a stuck car...:-p

we finished at around 8... and i was wearing short and a t-shirt in near freezing weather...:-p the roads were all wet on my way home so i found myself a nice little empty street and went up to 35mph and stood on the brakes... front drivers side locked first... (closest to the brake booster and the 200lbs pile of me sitting on that side...?) none of the others locked... i'm hoping to get on some gravel tonight... i put in used pads and rotors but they still need a little breaking in... i can feel the brakes getting tighter/better evertime i drive it... i'll report back after a few hundred miles... (so far i'm at about 60-70) after these all check out i'm upgrading to ea81 vented rotors for the front...

i've been driving on them since sunday night... i have yet to really test them. the roads were a little slick with snow this morning so i tried slamming on them a couple times... they didn't lock up if i was carefull... the fronts lock up before the rears however... running stock brake booster and the braking is a little more even... instead of the whole car just leaning forward when i slam on the brakes it more kinda sinks down... but ya, i wanna get on some gravel and try slamming on them a few times and see what happens...

just thought i'd share you everybody! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53479

in the interest of keeping everybody informed i'm gonna share how i did my rear disc conversion... this is NOT a bolt on conversion like the ea81 cars like i originally thought... i was unable to take pictures of what i did but i will discribe it the best i can then perhaps take pictures later when i have time... DISCLAIMER!: if you screw up don't blame me... YOU WILL NEED: parts: (found on RX, GL-10, and turbo cars in general... mine came from an 87 RX) -caliper -caliper bracket/holder -backing plate -rotor and hub -pads -shims for the pads -all hardware tools: -14mm, 36mm, 21mm sockets -10mm, 17mm wrenches -BFH -some sort of torch(a good hot one) -angle grinder -vice grips -needle nose pliers -if available, impact gun is gonna make this a LOT easier... -jack -jackstand(s) -felt marker or something. chalk? -spray paint PREP: alright start this early in the morning... i learned that lesson... have all your parts ready and waiting... it sucks when you're half way through a job and you forgot something... PROCEDURE: 1. jack up the car and loosen the wheel lugs(21mm) and remove the cotter pin from the center nut. loosen the center nut. 2. jack up the car the rest of the way and PUT A JACKSTAND. remove wheel and remove center nut w/ washer and cone washer. 3. remove the drum. (this can be tough. if so, try putting the wheel back on and using it as leverage.) 4. undo the brake line behind the brake using the 10mm wrench. be carefull! if you screw it up and slip its very easy to snap the bleeder nipple off! if it breaks off it is an expencive and annoying to fix it if your disc conversion doesn't go as planned. plug the now leaking brake line with something. or clamp the soft line located up the control arm using the vice grips. 5. there are 3 14mm bolts going through the drum which attaches the drum to the control arm. remove all 3 (easiest with a deep socket) and put them aside. if you got all the hardware from the parts car then you shouldn't need them. the ones that come with the disc brakes are longer to make up the different thickness of the backing plate. 6. so this is where it gets hard... you can (of you want) remove the gravel guard from the backing plate. i don't like them all that much and they get packed with mud and ruin rotors from heat. try just test fitting the backing plate onto the control arm. you should notice a few things. -the very end of the control arm is going to be blocking the placement of one of the caliper bracket bolts. -on multiple spots the control arm will hit the backing plate stopping it from setting down properly against the control arm 7.first up is to make that caliper bracket bolt fit. remove the backing plate and attach the bracket first while its off the car. on the bolt that conflicts with the control arm remove the lock washer then grind the end of the bolt down flush with the caliper bracket.(if you don't grind it down it may rub against the rotor and ruin it.) 8. you're still not going to clear from just removing the washer. get out your torch and heat up the end of the control arm until its nice and hot. get out your BFH and hit it nice and hard so you bend the end of the control arm back. (it sounds worst then it really is) now that bolt SHOULD clear. if not, reheat and bend it more. 9. you'll now notice that the backing plate is sitting much flatter against the control arm. but not good enough. some parts of the lip going around the edge of the backing plate need to be ground down. use a marker or chalk and mark every spot that it touches. grind those down. (don't go nuts here... the less grinding the better.) 10.aright so you'll notice that the backing plate should now sit flat against the control arm like a nice brake should. YIPPY! alright calm down you're not done yet. test fit your caliper and backing plate(which should also have the caliper bracket on it) onto the control arm. you'll notice that the caliper will hit ever so slightly against the control arm. mark it on the control arm with you chalk or marker. now PLEASE be gentle. control arms are important! grind away the spot on the control arm enough for the caliper to clear. take your time with this. 11. spray all the spots you ground down with primer or spraypaint to protect from rust. 12. bolt on the backing plate and caliper bracket. now take your rotor and hub assembly and seperate them. (4, 14mm bolts) then slip the rotor onto the control arm. you'll notice that if you try to just put on the whole assembly it will not clear the caliper bracket. hence the seperating. put the hub on and tighten the bolts to 15ft/lbs.(i think) these don't take that much force! 13. put in the shims into the caliper bracket and install the brake pads. bolt on the caliper when you're satisfied with the fit of your brakes. 14. connect your brake line from the caliper. use the 10mm and 17mm wrenches to tighten it. make sure its tight! (you will most likely have to bend the brake line to fit. be gentle! 15. put in the cone washer, washer and center nut. (doesn't need to be super tight just yet. wait till the car is on the ground for that) 16. bleed the brakes. (if you don't know how find someone who does) and be sure you remove the vice grips(if you used them) from the soft brake line!!! 17. before bolting on your wheel just check over all you've done. make sure you haven't missed anything. then bolt on the wheel. lower down the car and repeat for the other side. there! disc brakes! have fun everybody!

some advice... don't mod your car right now... at most do the exhaust to make it beafy sounding... other then that leave it be... this is for a very good reason... you've been teaching yourself in parking lots? if you throw a turbo in that thing and start bombing down dirt trails you're gonna wrap yourself around a tree... (then we're all gonna feel bad until you start parting out the car:-p ) look into a local club or something that does TSD rallying... do a search to get more info but TSD (time/speed/ distance) rallies are a great way to start rallying... the speeds are low and fairly safe... the challenge?(even for the most experienced) getting to the finish exactly on time... these rallies are around 500 miles long... arriving at the right time(down to the second) gets rather hard... especially when you don't know where you're going... (you have a route book which your navigator will read but the idea is you've never done the roads before) now you don't need a car with a lot of power for this... but it gets you really comfortable on gravel, snow, mud, ect... then once you got a couple of those under your belt do some mods to your car... or if you get into something like rallycross then if you screw up you hit some cones... big deal... lots of fun... but i still think it'd be better if you learned how to do it with the stock engine so you have more control... as for mods... the forester and outback have lower gears...(4.11 i think) if you do go that way it would probably be easiest to swap the whole trans and rear diff... but your speedo will be wrong... also adding a rear LSD (or VLSD for your car) would help a lot... swaybars and strut tower braces will stiffen it up nicely... and your brakes can never be to big...:-p and of course one of the most important things... get some decent snow tires or real rally tires... (be sure to have a full size spare if you're doing long distance rallies) if you want to be really nutty you can gut your interior... there is a lot of weight in there... and for engine stuff... get a perfect power engine management system from rallitek( www.rallitek.com ), header, lightened pulleys, intake, the list goes on... do a search on google for colorado rally... a few good sites pop up so there are clubs in your area... anyways... thats LOTS to think about... good luck!

hey that'd be sweet to see another old gen street machine on the road... but please oh PLEASE don't make it all show and no go... if your gonna make your car lowered with rims, ect ect please do some engine mods so you won't get blown out of the water by a civic... the EA engines are VERY capable... i wanted to use the ea82t in my brat but i wasn't to keen on chopping 2 inches out of my frame... you however are already blessed with one! if you get a high compress block from a carbed ea82 and put all the other parts from a turbo motor on it you'd get one kick arse motor... i've seen the results and they are VERY cool... trust me... that pshhhhh sound of the bov after shifting will turn way more heads(without the snickers) than any racer-look mod... subaru_styles car is an awesome looking car with the performance to back it up! anyway you go though, you'll love the car!

oh man i can't wait to finish mine now!!! i got 2 1/4" pipe going into a performance resonator then stock the rest of the way back... 150 more bucks and he'll top it off with a magnaflow or something...

they are really rare... i tihnk the only person who has them in north america is mcbrat...(obviously) i think they were rally rims... very cool rims if you can find em... but really... if you want 14" rims go rob the french...

no... 80's subies have the 4 lug except the xt-6... legacy is 5 lug... xt-6 and all new gen car rims will work... hope this helps... kinda late...

i see windshields on ebay for i think 200bucks every once and a while... try looking there... i just looked and didn't see one... but i saw one a couple weeks back... it went for 200 i think...

no it wasn't very hard to do... the differences between the seat brackets are: -about an inch and a half wider between the frames... -the bracket closest to the back of the ebrake is the wrong shape... -the brackets are about half an inch longer front to back... for the passenger side i unbolted the inner rail bracket and put in the original bracket of my old seat... you will have to drill a hole and put a bolt through it since the bracket is much shorter... then for the outer rail, i bent the tabs slightly to take out the extra half inch of space between them... make a little spacer out of flat steel... bolt your new spacer to your seat, then mount the spacer to the original mounting hole... pretty easy to do... for the driver's side i did it a little differently... i wanted to be able to use all the adjustments on my driver's seat... so i had to use the orginal rails that came with the seat... you'll notice that the tab closest to the ebrake isn't flat like it should be for the gen1... drill out the rivet AND the spot weld! don't miss the spot weld!!! then break it off... it is also glued... so watch yourself... when that thing pops off its got some force to it... (ie. don't do this near fine china...) next get some flat stock steel again and make a template using your old bracket... match it up so the brackets are the same... it wasn't to hard... bolt on your new tab... do the same for the outer bracket as you did with the passenger side and make spacers... bolt it in and enjoy your new seats! i'm pretty sure this is the same for all ea82 cars... along with the xt and xt-6... those are pretty nice seats... a little more 'sporty'...

some justy's came with 12" rims anyway... you might be able to pull it off with some serious weight reduction... i unno... anybody wanna put them and their justy on the line?:-p

take note that the 81 brat you have should have a ea81 and a d/r trans... while the 79 will have a ea71 and a s/r 4sp... but with the crossmembers and stuff it will interchange between the two cars...

very nice! thanks!

DUDE!!! that was awesome!!! the second link doesn't seem to work... but the first was crazy cool!

it doesn't work for me... i tried on windows media player, quicktime and winamp... anybody else only get the music and no vid???

hehe... its quite a challenge to get some sound into a gen 1... but so far i've gotten a pioneer deck in there along with a pioneer 12'' sub and alpine 6x9's behind the seats... getting the deck in there requires cutting... and you can see in the pic i kinda rushed it... but its really hard to make the ring fit on there nice... but besides that little buggered spot on the upper left corner it looks pretty slick... and the clock lives! (although can't keep the time... ) i bent a little bit of metal bracket stuff around the back and used the little rubber bushing bolt thing to hold the deck in... it keeps the deck from floating around... but its pretty much useless against theft... the sub box was made my myself... its not amazingly pretty but it gets the job done!i had to cut the ebrake cover a bit to get it to fit... but other then that it works great... and i can get the seats most of the way back... (even with my new rx seats... ) amp for the sub is under the passenger seat...

if i recall correctly you'd want to scope out a forester? can anybody varify that??? this will be fun to follow! and if you pull it off you're gonna have to come to wcss8 with me and show it off!:cool: