Numbchux

I've helped on 3 SVX swaps, 2 into GC imprezas and a third into a '95 legacy. radiator will need to be moved forward about 3 inches, and fans relocated to the front side. I know of one guy who moved the stock radiator forward, and made it work. most of the time, hood latch is lost and pins will be needed. Dao got a custom radiator from Griffin that was short and thick, and mounted it forward in the bumper like a FMIC, which left plenty of room for the engine AND stock latch. pretty cool: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/daoimp.htm or another guy had one that replaced the upper radiator support: Wiring is a little goofy. but not too bad. worst part is the glue that they use to seal where the wiring harness through the firewall on the SVXs. it makes separating stuff an epic PITA!

I've seen the tool at Northern tool and the like. just a little square piece with a different combination of studs sticking out of each of the sides, and a 3/8s square, so it can be used as a socket. and yea, my 200SX rear calipers have that too. +1 for bleeder screw removal.

hmmmm...maybe my estimates were a bit high. that's alright, those numbers are perfectly acceptable, and with the other mods I'm doing, the torque curve should be positively sexy Thanks! I may have decided on a shell to install it in. I was planning on buying a clean PNW coupe shell sometime next summer and painting it, but since the accident in my XT6 last week, I'm thinking it'll be cheaper to pull the frame out and fix a couple rust spots on it than get my hands on a new shell. and since I was already planning body work and paint..... not much for updates lately. except my girlfriend bought me a set of Phenolic intake manifold spacers for my birthday a few weeks ago!

couldn't tell you what brand. but they were all overdue for replacement (new belts, re-used pulleys), or the cheapest thing I could get my hands on. FYI, with a PT4WD drivetrain, an EJ22 is capable of similar mileage. I did an '86 wagon last year with a '96 2.2. it regularly got 30mpg, and not being gentle on it.

fixed. no "s" on the end actually, I forgot, the consumer site is now at: http://www.usaradiator.com/

the radiator is definitely not the weak link. a clogged Ea82 radiator will keep an EJ22 cool all year long, with only occasional fan use. IMHO, the best upgrade you can do, is an all-metal one. http://www.performanceradiator.com makes one for EA82s thats very nice. had one in my loyale for a few years. beyond that, just take care of it. if you maintain the system well, you shouldn't have any problems at all.

EJs have computer-controlled ignition. so 2 coil packs on the intake mani. no disty. 22REs definitely have a disty. yea, you might get lucky with an EA82 with that low mileage, but I highly doubt you'll get 5 years without problems. they're not exactly a bullet-proof engine yea, just swap the whole intake manifold, wiring, disty and sensors from the loyale motor onto the '87 (the manifold is slightly different between the carb and FI setups, but will bolt onto the heads just fine). also, if this is your first timing belt job, I would recommend doing it right. put the marks on both cam sprockets pointing straight up. install the driver's side belt, then turn the crank over by hand one rotation (driver's cam should be pointing down), then install passenger side. once you know what to look for, it can all be done at once, but to make sure it's done right the first time, do the whole process. also, be ABSOLUTELY sure to replace all pulleys. this is the weak link. I've been left on the side of the freeway 6 or 8 times due to EA82 idler failure. there's a company by the name of PCI (preferred components, inc.) that makes high-quality timing belt kits, including all pulleys. there are a few sources on ebay that sell these for a great price. just as good as OEM, IMHO.

well, if it has the push-pull lever next to the 5-speed shifter, than it's dual-range. a single-range one won't have that push-pull linkage, but will have a vacuum diaphragm near the bellhousing, with a cable running back to the rear of the trans. an RX FT4WD D/R will have both. and yes, any turbo trans will have 25 splines. and non-turbo EA82s and all EA81s have 23.

also, there's an extremely important number being left out. the sidewall height. 235/35r15s would probably fit wonderfully on a stock height car, and 225/80r15s would be a tight fit on 4".

all '87-'89 RXs are 3-door coupes. but not vice-versa. also all '85-'86 RXs are sedans, but again, not vice-versa. there are lots of sedans and coupes that are DLs, GLs, and GL-10s. available with many tranny options. only the RX coupes had the FT4WD AND dual range. as far as I know, no non-turbo Ea82s were available with FT4WD with a locking center diff. only the turbos. a genuine RX will have the regular 5-speed linkage. and then behind that (towards the rear of the car), a lever to shift from hi to lo, and a small electrical switch next to it to lock the center diff. the electrical switch controls a pair of vacuum solenoids on the driver's side strut tower, that directs vacuum to the trans to lock the center diff. many standard EA82s had part-time 4WD Dual-Range trannies with just the hi-lo lever, that also selects FWD. the linkage from one of these can be used on a RX trans. some Ea82s had part-time 4WD with single range. these had a button on the top of the 5-speed shifter to engage the rear end. this button controls solenoids identical to the RX diff lock one. neither of these are a "diff lock", they are fully locked when engaged, but no diff, the other 2 wheels are just completely disengaged and coast. I suspect the "diff lock" trans you have is a single range PT4WD trans, and the other is a dual-range PT4WD.

if the '94 really is a loyale, it'll have a distributer, almost identical to the '87. same place, slightly different sensor between the carb'ed setup and FI. if you're '94 doesn't have a distributor, it's not an Ea82, and therefore isn't an Ea82. if it's an impreza, it could actually be an EJ18, and therefore wouldn't have a disty.

well, first off. All genuine RXs are turbo. and all 5MT RXs have locking center diff and dual range. that said, the linkages from a part-time 4wd dual-range (any EA82 gl, very common) will work just fine. the hi-lo linkage is a bit shorter in the part-time setup, but it will work alright. and isn't too hard to lengthen (I cut it in half, cut some threads into it, and used a threaded coupler. worked great!). and the diff lock solenoids are the same as anything with a push button PT4WD 5MT (loyales or DLs).

yea, removable air-dam = good idea. I removed it for the first couple years. then a snowbank removed it last year. it'll be hard to make whole again great info though. this could make my old one usable!

look! a picture of my crappy carrier bearing "brackets"

she admitted that I had the right of way in the statement, so she wasn't trying to get out of anything. she was just so clueless, she still didn't know where I came from. really no argument about who was at fault. and I'm sure the collision shop quote will be $2-3k. so I'm pretty sure they'll total it out. really the only thing left to argue is the value of the car so they can cut me a check.

still haven't gotten a good look at it. hopefully I'll get more info tomorrow.... BUT, I have hatched an evil plan that involves resurrecting the '6 with 100% more badass, and buying an '84 Audi coupe GT.

I would bet one is reverse and the other is neutral. switched to ground like the other 2.

reminds me of this: I love it!

I've been passively watching for a diagram, hoping to find something. to no avail. I'll probably get my multimeter out and just start testing stuff to see what does what.

just awesome!

looking at where the bar is hitting the control arm in my loyale, I wonder if the sway bar mounts are further forward, relative the control arms, on an XT6....

when I did the AWD swap in my loyale. I didn't do any welding or cutting on the rear diff hanger bolts. just drilled and tapped. it's been 5 years now, and almost 50k miles. zero problems there. the legacy tophats work fine with the stock holes, just have to enlarge them a bit. EJ tophat in my XT6, took me about 2 minutes per side with a dremel to get them to fit: I know you're already down the road of modification, but for future reference....definitely overkill yep, I had to drill out the engine crossmember. I made some carrier bearing brackets. but 40k miles or so turned a perfectly good driveshaft into junk (bearing AND 2 u-joints shot). I have since converted to a one-piece, seems to have helped. my setup: XT6 rear hubs, rotors, backing plates and front control arms. EA82t rear caliper brackets '88 Nissan 200SX rear calipers (coupled with legacy handle and cables for rear ebrake) '92 FWD legacy front knuckles, axles and struts EA81 tie rod ends '02 2.5RS front brakes '04 Mazda Miata rear shocks Genuine Ground-Control coilover sleeves, 250lb/in in the front and 275 in the rear.

she never even tried for an excuse. her account of what happened on the police report was completely wrong. thank goodness there were some pedestrians on the sidewalk to back up my story. Although, she had her mother at the car. Talk about a stereotypical truth

I've already mentioned on the XT boards. but I figured I'd put it up here too. Last friday a woman made a left turn from the right lane in front of me. Car was towed, and is now at a body shop for an estimate for repairs. I'm not looking forward to the result pictures: passenger side wheel is pushed back noticeably, control arm looks mostly straight, couldn't see the leading rod. CV joint BROKE! like axle flopping around. would explain why it would roll a bit in park, but I could still drive it forward 10 ft or so out of the road.

I don't know what the tolerances and whatnot are, but just from the picture it looks to be pretty close. any chance it would fit if the block were torqued down? case halves snug together and heads on tight?