BobBrumby

yeh that is almost as bad as the drain channels on the bracket for rear top mount of the shokies on brumbies, that gets clocked and it rusts away the inside body. why would car manufacture see any use for these too things except to rust out the body, i cant see any logical reason for them. this was like when my dad told how a while ago ford left their bodies out in the weather for a while before painting them. hehe but if your ford rusted out really quick you wouldnot be rushing out to buy another one off them, but a subaru?

i needed to change a stop lamp bulb in my brumby. with the lense assy out i found about 2 inches of red dirt packed tightly down the bottom of pannels behind rear tire. i then changed the other sides bulb aswell and found next to none. i only found it on your guys driver's side. its a good sign as red red dirt comes from inland aus, so no beach runs .

yeh the adapter plate blocks off the top of the square hole. Judging by the 1st reply the sqaure hole is interconected with the main jacket in the manifold?

I found a small coolent leak where the coolent is fed up into the manifold just below front of carb for the hitachi's water choke. instead of replacing this hose (a bit orcward) could i just block it where it tee's off the heater hose hard line, as i no longer need coolent there with my webber. Does anyone know if this section seperate to the main crossover channel for the coolent in the manifold?

i didnot think carbs liked possitive pressure e.g. ram air

get more air into the engine? boost and intercooler?

i think you need a vac guage that u put in the top of the carbs to make sure the same ammount of air is going thru each carb. this is adjusted using the idle screws on the carbs. then you mess with the mixture. well this is what i gathered after watching a show on the discovery channel it was a while ago so i might have mixed up which screw to adjust the vacc with

Omg i got a steal then, a holley 180, adapter pate and a crappy manifold for $200 here in brisbane.

the nut many have lossened it self off the 4wd drive rod like it did in my car, making the slelector not move the rod backwards. take off the centre trim and you should see.

Cheers for the quick reply but there are no holes in them and i dont think jumpseats are available in australia. Yeh i am gunna leave em off.

I have a brumby and was wondering if the two metal pieces bolted above and below the rear windscreen running vertical are strucural or as i supect to stop your load going thru the glass?

I cant get www.ausubaru.com forums to load, anyone know wots going on?

be carefull these pump can spilt, if worst comes to worst you might try partially splitting the block arround the oil pump.

Just the one , but it anint really a "SUBARU" service manual.

if the fuel lines still have petty in them pull the fuel line off the carb and get it as low as possible, capilary action should do the rest. this might take all night tho. i duno if it will drain the whole tank but when i was changing a filter i did the same thing, by mistake, and the flow didnot seem to slow at all.

yeh the turbos where awd and n/a came in 4spd and 5spd dual range and 5spd single range 4wd. all of the n/a one where where part time 4wd, otherwise front wheel drive. if u wanted to run a turbo tranny in an n/a you need the front drive shafts from turbo as the stubs coming out of the tranny have 25 splines for turbos and 23 splines for n/a.

Well my centre rear view mirror ball joint is as loose as the village bicycle, a small bump will knock it way out of possition. i had a quick look but could fin any adjustment. Would this just because its so old or can you tighen from the back after taking it off?

If you have never changed the clutch cable, you might find its a bit stretched. When i changed my clutch the old plate seemed to have a bit left in it and the new one i put only has half its adjustment. Cables are pretty cheap i think, evenso much cheaper and quicker than a clutch job.

i used brand new stanley knife blades on oil pan and valve cover (alloy bits). make sure you keep it level with the surface tho.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/subrepair.htmShould have oone there

urm power poles and trees

Dam on the 3rd page and i only posted yesterday. Come on some one knows this.

I want to re-install the stock valve that disables vac advance while the car is still warming up. Only problem is i dont know which one of the two temp valves it is. Is it the one that screws into the alloy flange off the manifold or the one that sits just over the manifold and is held in place by a black riser piece? I suspect the first of the two cause some hardlines that connect to it come out near where the ported vac port is on the carb. Also a folow up question, what nipples are connected at what temps? Any help would be appriciated. Edit: this is a 1990 Brumby btw.

the right hand side is the ONLY side to drive from:rolleyes:.

i think i did as tight as i could with small handled screwdriver then 1 turn more with ratchet