Markus56

might be something as simple at the carb to manifold gasket. have you sprayed it with brake cleaner or something to detect a vacuum leak?

turn up the idle and see if it still happens. Same thing used to happen on my 85 wagon.

The big thing here is the dual range. A GL wagon will perform better off road than anything that comes with an EJ stock. For the EA82's, as long as you maintain them, the timing belts will not be an issue. Without preventive maintenance, no engine will last long. We take EA82's places where lifted jeeps have trouble going.

Dont listen to these jokers, they don't know what they are talking about Try to find an 88 or 89 wagon with a dual range. the timing belts are almost a non issue after that ebay kit. and the heater will work, unlike an EA81 That vintage has a really reliable fuel injection system which has slightly more power than the older, carbed versions. plus the 5 speed dual range is much more reliable than the 4 speed found in the EA81. and there are a LOT more of them in junkyards, so when something breaks, you can easily source parts for cheap. And that brings up another point, the dual range. It is AWESOME for going anywhere you want to regardless of the weather. That will take you places a legacy could never dream of going.

thanks for the info. I ended up replacing an inner tie rod instead of the whole rack.

Quick question, is there any difference in the rack and pinions between XT's and wagons?

+1 to be submitted

+1 find a 2wd XT and do all the things GD said. you could get 40 mpg plus

it is a pain in the rear. i would pull off the timing belt covers and see if one of the belts has jumped a tooth.

Hey guys! i just got permission to take an 82 BRAT in near mint condition to the meet, provided i can make it stop blowing up coils :banana::banana:

you can do a 6 inch body lift on a gen 3 with out extending the brake lines, and for the steering you can combine a power steering and non power steering linkage

About 1.5 inches define "too far"

Are you talking about these rims? drill em

The speakers are either 5.5 inches or 6.5 inches (someone please help me out on this) and are really easy to replace and look stock. all you need is a phillips screwdriver. ( i think)

loose clutch?

If speakers are 200 dollars then you are not looking hard enough. do you have any local pawn shops? that would be a good place to start

for a commuter, you should get 27's instead of 30's. and drilled rims work great. save some money on pugs for something else

*update* I will be taking Butters to my shop tomorrow so i can do a full alignment, install a new speedometer cable and fix some wiring. Should be interesting!

Its not camber. check your 36mm nuts on the axles. and check your lug nuts. and unbalanced tires will not cause bad vibrations. You NEED to check all the bolts connecting your front drive train to your car. I'd bet money that a bolt has backed off somewhere. pay close attention to the cross-member bolts

They are the same.

take a battery terminal cleaner to the battery and the terminals. get the corrosion off, and that should help

and, being one of the people who didn't countersink the holes, you can flip the lug nut over for that extra surface tension.

the main thing is rust and T.O.D. hit up the chat room and we can talk more subaru http://www.worldwidecm.com/chat/index.php

dual range transmission, i.e. hi/low range also, we have a search function if you haven't seen it at the top of the page. comes in handy

Just like any other car, they are cheap to work on, as long as they don't break. the price of parts depends on where you buy. if you like self service junkyards, you're in luck. a fuel injected D/R subaru is a good choice, and i get around 27 mpg on my wagon with 30's. As for the extra's they are pretty much all the same. if you are a fan of cup holders, dont buy anything older than a legacy