wentz912

Since you got enough of the control arm bushings for three cars, would you be willing to sell one of the extra sets?

Well, been busy with work and the slight distraction my new motorcycle has provided me with, but this is what my pile of five lug parts looks like:popcorn:

I've got a full set of the chrome acorns that came off my car.....

Agreed, there are several of us that have done/are doing this swap, so the parts list is pretty varied, the only thing concrete is the rear XT6 hubs and rotors. The rest is your personal choice. For example I'm using a pretty strange combination of parts, but it all bolts together so it should work just fine.

Where/when was this race? I saw a couple of rally cars on trailers while I was headed west on I-84/North on I-5 on my way back home from Boardman Oregon yesterday....

Probably not going to happen without getting REALLY tight to the suspension and such, my 205s on pugs stick out past the body almost a full inch and they are pretty close to the same backspace as stock wagon wheels.

Tell me more Stuart!

Could also be that your timing is on the retarded side, when I had mine all jacked up it would get a little warm under heavy load.

Check to see if the distance from the tire to the strut is the same as tire to rear suspension on the wheels and tires you have now.

Ah ok. Just had to ask since the car I'm referring too used to live down the street from me but hasn't been around lately....

Going to try and be there along with Spencer, provided we've got the time off work. That's part of the busy part of the work year so not really sure how it will go down.

Didn't happen to use to frequent Kelso did you? Does your car rock some 14" pugs?

This is definitely NOT correct.... Remember, if the backspace is the same as a stock sube wheel, the only clearance issues would have from tire to suspension is with the interaction between tire and wheel and the resulting sidewall "bubble"

This is the part you must have missed yes?

^^^ this is what determined my choice to go five lug instead of six. Opens up more options than just wheels.

Awesome information, and I already understood the difference between tread width and section width, but was trying to prevent the muddying of the waters by adding yet another term to the mix. Let me refine my statement even more: Taking the EXACT SAME model, manufacture, section width, rim width and diameter, the tire with the shorter sidewall WILL be slightly wider than the taller version.

That's what I'm getting at, even if the tread width on the tire is marked identically, the tire with the shorter sidewall will be marginally wider. MARGINALLY, but still a measurable difference. I do not know if this is true for ALL tires, but all that I have measured, it has held true for.

Now that's just silly.

That's what I was trying to say, even though apparently it didn't come out right. I was stating this for the purposes of contact patch, which is what we all REALLY care about right? That said, a revised version of my statement would be: The lower the numerical number of the sidewall aspect ratio, the wider the contact patch will be with the same numerical tread width.

Very true? You just agreed to the opposite of what I said :banana:

Yes most definitely, another thing to remember is that the shorter the sidewall ratio is on a tire, the easier it will stay it's true width, leaning towards actually being a touch wider from having a more square shoulder profile. Example: In the same exact tire, a 205/75-15 although reading as the same tread width size on the sidewall, won't be quite as wide as a 205/55-15. Tracking?

Of course, and feel free to refer to me as simply Wentz. I still respond to it pretty easily from my military background As long as the wheel isn't literally narrower than the wheel, you should have no problem mounting it. Even a little narrower than the wheel isn't a HUGE deal, the vw guys do it all the time.

Well, really the "best" way to do it empirically is figure out how much wheel there is from the wheel hub out and compare that to a stock Subaru wheel. The backspace will determine whether or not the wheels will rub on the suspension, but really that's about it. Wheel width minus backspace is how much wheel there is from the hub out.

This is of course assuming that the wheel width is the same. Any of the numbers alone will NOT tell you how much more will stick out past the fender.

When I did mine not to long ago, I just made sure to leave the cams alone after I had the towers out. They won't just roll around if you don't mess with them, so they should go in there the same way they came out. Although really, it doesn't matter since you turn the cam gears to a certain point and the crank to a certain point before putting your belts on.