THAWA

Are you arguing or agreeing? We're saying the same thing here. I was responding to someone else.

a cone filter doesnt also increase performance and gas mileage. It totally depends on the situation. And in this situation it doesnt do either. There's a lot of engineering placed behind our intake setup.

There were no STi BC/BF's I believe you're thinking of the Legacy RS-R and RS-RA. STi wasn't really a division/company/whatever until the introduction of the impreza. They were around before the impreza though.

Thats a good question. If your pwners manual doesn't answer it already, you should go post this on http://bbs.legacycentral.org

You can say that all you want, you can't change the laws of physics, water is compressible.

While that may be true, it doesn't make water incompressible

it's not all about hp. Personally I'd take the 2.5t, it feels better than the 3.0r, which feels very sluggish.

my car was produced in 89, may of 89 to be exact, but it's a 1990

so the splines match up and everything?

also for the record, you CAN compress liquids such as water

All the front half shafts are the same length on ej cars.

What "garage" is this, and why are they giving you false information? You NEED all 4 tires to be the same and have tread within 1/4" or maybe it's 2/32". If it was me I wouldn't take it to that "garage" since they didnt torque down the crank pulley either. Which by the way if it fails is quite an expensive repair. Trust what the dealer is telling you, and leave the fuse in, if you end up destroying someting the dealer will have to fix it as they told you to do it (but actually is sounds like they're going to be fixing it anyway so it shouldnt matter. At anyrate, best of luck to ya.

I assume it's AWD, and yes different tread (which automatically means different types of tires, which means they have different properties) can cause damage to the AWD system. You should ALWAYS replace all 4 tires at the same time. If you absolutely can't do all 4 #1 you shoudlnt be driving an AWD vechicle and #2 only replace two on one side at a time. At least that way the drivetrain sees the difference as two of the wheels on the same side are moving faster or in essense it thinks the car is turning, which isnt nearly as damaging on the center diff as it constantly trying to slow down one axle. You will have to get all 4 new tires, or get 2 more of the same tires you have on the front and get them shaved down to the exact thickness as the ones in the front. Where did you go to get the tires mounted in june? I wonder why they didnt notify you that you needed to get all 4 new tires. Also I wouldnt leave the fuse in for FWD, as that's only supposed to be a temporary thing, for towing and whatnot.

You mean like the stock setup? Why do you have to pull the sex card? Noone said anything about you being a girl so why even bring it up?

oh i know, but I didnt think he'd be autocrossing against cars not sold here

Didnt;' know about the upgrading the engine part either, now I see why you'd have to remap I'm glad you like working on carbs, it's great to see someone not going with whats hip and popular. I can tell you're one of those old guys that does things the old fashion way, there's nothing wrong with that (some of the best people at whatever they do do it the old fashion way), but that's just what i can see. I thought I had said it before but evidently not. I'm glad you're doing better than people in more powerful cars. Driverskill goes a long way. Anyway, you're right, this topic is going nowhere

what do you need to remap? If you're just using a regular engine there's nothign you'll need to remap to use an ecu. I didnt know the turbo part though You dont have to create a coil pack. The engine you buy ought to come with one, and if it doesnt you can pick one up on ebay for 10-20 bucks or so. Also if you buy a long block it should come with all the wiring needed for this. What do you mean by older wrx's, the oldest are only 3 years old! and even the oldest STi's are 1 year old I've been looking at an early 2.2 engine for more than two years thank you. The "plug" is designed for an oil or coolant return, I forget which one though. You should take a look at a ej22g. Just because something is simpler doesnt automatically make it more reliable. So now let me ask you, what are you going to do about the maf, knock sensor, coolant sensors, and emmissions? I'm glad your car is doing great, but I'm just trying to tell you that going from fi to carb is not going to make your car better. Simpler to work on, but not better.

What is the advantage to having a distributor over a coil pack, or coils on plugs? How is it easier to fix a distributor than say a coil pack? If the coil pack is bad, you just swap in a new one, 4 bolts, 4 plugs, easy access. and it's not that hard to diagnose a bad coil pack assuming you have a FSM and a multimeter. And don't give me this business about "Who is going to carry around a FSM and multimeter" You're talking about redesigning an ignition system, you had damn better well have both of those on you at all times. subusolo2nut, where do you plan on putting the turbo if you have the distributor coming out of the back of the head? Also remember that both the oil and coolant return in that same area, and the Coolant (or is it oil?) goes right returns through that "plug". Also don't forget that ej-series ignitions are waste spark, so can the distributor take care of that aswell? GLCraigGT, if the ignition timing is controlled by the ecu, why would you even want to use a distributor?

where is this mounting base at? and how are you going to get it to connect to the camshaft?

how does a crank angle distributor work? is the ignition timing variable?

he was talking about over seas, they got a lot of different things over there that we didnt, like carbed ej engines for one.

cool, I might be in the market for one eventually.

the problem might be that the turbo ej series trannys use pull style clutches, and apparently they're only compatible with pull style trannys, and vice versa. This means you need tranny, clutch, pressureplate, and flywheel matching in order to work. Are there pull style ea clutches? Do you think an ej series pull flywheel would mount? How many holes hold the ea series flywheel to the crank? and whats the offset between them?

when you say permanently availible, do you mean you will keep ordering these once you run low on your stock? Or are you just going with 10-15 for now?

it could be on the ej18's aswell. though I would like to know why you would want to go with a less advanced, and non-variable ignition system, than comes stock.