Vanislru

If you are going with 9.5" or wider I would use 80's toy rims, 4runner's or pu. For my 10.5's the earlier toy rims didn't have enough offset and had to much backspacing.

I haven't noticed much more lag but a sweet BB turbo would offset any lag from the extra ID I would think, my turbo spools about 300-500 rpm later.

That's right it's actually mounted on the column itself, you'll need to remove three phillips screws and 4 phillips plastic grommets. Check the hoses on all ends of the piece that says 4wdturbo.

I just used a punch with the rim mounted to the hub and eyeballed the center for each lug, punched it, pulled the rim off and drilled. As said earlier tapping fluid is your friend, much cheaper than buying multiple bits.

If you pull the piece of trim of under the steering column[ phillips screws] you'll see a black box sttsched to the underside of the column. With the ign. in the acc. position the front of the black box[computer] will have a flashing led, that's where you read codes from. You don't need to unplug or plug in any connectors. Oil and bat. gauge are within normal range. It sounds like you have left a hose undone either on the turbo intake pipe or TB. Good Luck:)

I did that too on my first turbo sube, ran super fast for a while till I blew a head gasket, disconnecting the overboost sol was probly the final nail in the coffin. IMHO the ea82t's are just as reliable as the NA's you just have a bit more to care for.

Try lifting the motor/trannie from in behind the belllhousing towards the trannie, it's solid and you'll have much needed room for manuverability. The car will move with the motor and trannie being lifted until the struts are fully unwieghted so as long as nothing is binding that's normal. and I can't wait to here what a BB turbo will do for one of these cars.

Might be a ground issue, noise is when on AM?

couldn't agree more, a molecules size is the same dino or synth.

What kind of test are the auto shops doing, just testing the windings?

The field voltage should be constant bat volts. The field sets up just that, the magnetic lines of force in the alt that the windings cut through generating your three phase ac which is then rectified by the 4 diodes circuit in the alt to dc. No field no output from the alt, that's why you can't jump a sube with a completely dead bat.

Just buy an 86 already .

BS Maybe they lowered the car:lol:, there's no way they could've done so. I don't think i could even get the stock header out without raising the car. It's super easy to do anyhow, I'd be more worried about the ps lines and the fight with them, I'm still choked I had to mess with those, on both cars I put the TWE pipes on, double pain in the rump roast. Why does suby ps leak so friggin much i've never seen a clean crossmember yet:-\. Jacking the motor's a cakewalk, wrangling the header into positions a bit of a go, the on bolt on the pass. sides nasty too don't forget to do it first. Also might wanna buy the bolts for the header to the turbo too, SS is best.

I run snythetic in my cars, motor and trannie. From what i've learned working in crude refineries the whole dino versus synth debate is mostly meaningless the real difference is the manufacturer[sp?], dino or synth. A close look at the make up of alot of synthetics reveals price targeting, ie compromises in integrity to make a price point. Snowman's explanation of hydrocarbon cracking is accurate.

I think the output from the alt should be around 14v, is this and ea82 alt in there? I think your alt isn't charging the battery cause it does run for a bit meaning there's something of a charge in there that will stay until drained, but it's not being kept up by the alt. Don't know if this makes sense I'm a little out of sorts right now. My 2cents your alts toast, possibly diodes.

That motor will have to come up as much as you dare the higher the easier your life will be. Jack it up from as far back as possible I jacked mine from the behind the bell houusing are as i found with the jack under the oil pan I couldn't get the manuverability i needed to wrangle the header into position. A large hose clamp works wonders for placing the ps lines where you want them too after the're bent to clear the pipes. I removed the ps line bolt that sits down under neath the turbo, and the 2 bolts holding the ps lines to the motor as well to get the slack needed.

I don't think you'll find alot of support for NOS on this board, I'm looking at a wet kit for my offroader with 29's. I have a fresh motor with the usual mods for a turbo but I want low end torque so I'd have a NOS setup that is for off boost and then it would taper off at say 1-3 psi. Take a look at DIY sites they usually have some good writeups and aren't selling anything, if they are then take their info with a chunk of salt. The thing with NOS is that it costs a bit for any REAL amount of additional power, Theres your tank, the hoses, the extra fuel injector, NOS injector, valve and jetting, any relays or safety circuits plus all sorts of other crap and things I've left out, oh yeah and refills. If you literally have money to burn, and fast go for it.

From what I remember at 9 psi the injectors are at the max of their duty cycle so i don't think you'll chang much flow wise by putting in a zener diode and limiting the signal to the computer. I remember someone on the board having success with a FCD way back. An EGT meter might be a good idea while you're looking for the FCD.

Did you reuse the old intake gasket?

The vane type MAF rules! this means you have an 86 or older computer and the overboost sol. that can be disssabled so no fuel cut. My car in the sig has that vane type maf and I don't think it's restrictive in any way, unlike the stock pipes it had, or the air intake silencer, or the stock filter, etc.

Yeah I was out wheelin and had my muffler fall off as I came cookin out of the trailhead onto the road. Well not wanting to cause harm to other motorists I jumped out and grabbed the thing to throw it in the back of the ru. Big mistake, uhm yeah that's right mufflers get real hot. Oh well chicks dig scars lol. Your car will idle fine with the wastegate disconnected but please don't drive it as you will harm the motor with crazy high boost levels. I'm confident the wastegate is fine. As for coolant is there alot of white smoke out the tail pipe when it's warm? Does it chuff? Missfire? I think maybe your TPS might benefit from a quick look. That woul explain the surgeing.

getting red hot is normal if you're on the throttle hard, but from just revving it up in place no load? Definately check to make sure oil/coolant is getting in and out of it. Check the wastegate by moving the arm on the side of the turbo towards the back of the car with pliers, if it moves mor than 1/4" or so it's fine. As far as your cat being plugged, you will have barely any power, if it is pull it off and bang the sh-t out of it to break up the bits inside and shake them out.

No only the stock turbo mounts right up, with some $$$ u could slap on an old tdo4, or pretty much anything else . There's alot to deal with if you want to make real power. If you have less than $2000 kickin around then I'd stick with the basic mods that can be found looking around on the older threads. Intercooler, higher boost, air box mod or good filter, large exhaust with high flow header/DP, better ignition, and etc. might give you about +/- 30 - 60 hp... with a fresh block. The only Ea82t pushin hp over 200 I've heard of is in Australia and he's usually on Ausubaru.com and sometimes this board.

I like to use brake cleaner, tons of it, tip and empty wait for it to dry, done.What Russ said is good advice I had my EGR sol throw things off on my last turbo.