92_rugby_subie

I spy Jacob rolling up in the FM brat in the background

^This. This is why I recommend GD for everything. Fair and gets stuff done without cutting corners. Except for this case I guess he did "cut a corner" Done with my puns. I had seen this at GDs place and asked about it and saw the damage, I didnt think it would get repaired quite so nicely. Doesnt even look like it was damaged, great job Rick!

There are plenty of write-ups on the 5 lug conversion. I plan to do that to my car. Although if you cant do that currently, the 15" Peugeot Alloys with the recessed spokes, painted black would look amazing on a red car, I had them on my dark blue sedan, and it looked sweet! I have a few pics I can post up. You might be curious on how to post pics/PM etc.. to PM/Private Message, you need 10 posts. Posts dont count in the for sale section or off-topic area. To post pictures with a photobucket account: Copy the IMG code and paste it into a message. As for the Loyale. My 1992 was getting a little tired at 262k... There are plenty of EA82s hanging around if it does let go... but if you want super cool, start saving your pennies for an EJ22 swap... Go from about 90hp to 135hp (and you can do AWD swap as well, thats what Im doing with a frankenmotor later on)

Well lets start with a few things: Welcome to USMB Youll find lots of pictures, information and amazing people More information about your Loyale? Color, miles, auto-tragic or manual transmission? Define "cool" for me?

Should be the same exact alternator you have now... Your car is an EA82 is it not? The maxima alternator is more amps but its not a "direct" bolt in, but GD has the best write-up Ive ever seen on it.

+1 on the alternator. Theres a user (I believe Bratman18) that has a reman EA82 alternator BNIB for like 40 bucks shipped. I had thought about picking it up just to use as a spare, but didnt have the $$ at the time, he might still have it, would have to check the for sale section

I was recommended to check out "superbrightleds.com" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124088 Theres some bashing on me for wanting tinted taillights But my tail lights arent even that dark so although I may get those bulbs soon, its not necessary for me.. They seem to have really good prices for what youre getting

+1 I have to do either headgaskets on my EA82 or put in another motor (which I planned to do for the higher compression of the SPFI EA82) and although Im not even that experienced with swapping motors (besides what GD has taught me) I went over my motor and looked at everything Id have to unbolt, disconnect, set aside etc and I could have the motor pulled in about 45 mins TOPS and then probably an hour put back in (gotta make sure everything is connected right)

Hey this is about Ned The lifter tick is back... but I will be either replacing the engine with an SPFI block soon or I will get the banjo bolt relief springs and replace those... Will also check and see if just some DD can quiet down Neds TOD.

Awesome I hear ya... I keep my "little" mods on Ned to myself or if someone asks just because its not enough to start a thread about.

I am not laughing at what happened, just that you called him an "rump roast-clown" I havent heard that name in forever... Well, at least you get the D/R tranny... and who knows... That Loyale might have an issue that youre not aware of that you can be glad youre not getting I hope you still enjoy the GL though... Keep us posted and put some pics up when you get it!

O.O Wont be doing that anytime soon... I think Ill stick to eventually (after FM swap) having electric start/keyless entry

And the knocking... Im stumped on it to be honest... My car does it sometimes and I think its because of the tie-rods (which we found out by lifting the front end and being able to shake the wheel a lot ) and those will be replaced next week, so we will see if that solves my issue.

First, the caliper thats sticking, back it off a little bit (should be a turn style piston) if it will not back off/turn then it may be very stuck and need to be replaced before you can bleed the brakes efficiently. *usually a junkyard replacement is fine... Ive heard these rarely fail with proper maintenance/bleeding* Here is my old thread so you can see we kinda had the same issue: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=122330 I can get the exact instructions from the book... but the quickest way is to get it up on jackstands (if you can, all four tires off the ground, if not, you can do it wheel by wheel, it just might be more of a pain) Make sure you have extra brake fluid... I did all four so I used the big container of DOT-3 and had like, half an inch left in the bottle before it came out clear through each line. Your assistant will be operating the brake pedal. I used quick terms like "down and up" and "off and on" to signal when the brake pedal should be pressed or not. Brake bleed order (according to repair manual) RR - Right Rear LF - Left Front LR - Left Rear RF - Right Front Use a small hose to put onto the end of the bleeder screw and then the other end into a jar (the clearer the hose, the better, so you can see when clear liquid comes out) Use a turkey baster and get as much of the old fluid out of the Master Cylinder as possible and refill it with the clean DOT-3 fluid. Clean the cap and put it back on. Then go to the Right Rear wheel (where you start). Have the right tool for the bleeder screw (might be a 6 or 8 mm I cant remember) and yell up to your assistant "DOWN" (or whatever word you use) and have them hold the pedal to the floor. Loosen the screw and the fluid will shoot into the tube/hose and down into the container, it will probably be pretty gross. Tighten the screw (not too tight, dont break it, but just snug) and THEN have your assistant let up on the brake pedal. Do this a few times, then check your brake fluid level (DO NOT LET THAT MASTER CYLINDER EMPTY ITSELF, KEEP IT FULL - You may have to collapse the little air bag it makes sometimes when it empties itself beyond a certain level) Now that Ive said it in detail above: Repeat the steps: Brake pedal held down Open bleeder screw Let fluid drain/shoot into tube Close screw Lift pedal back up Brake pedal held down (and so on and so on) until the brake fluid comes out clear. After the fluid is all clear take it for a test run (with new fluid in the reservoir I hope) see how it feels. If I left anything out, please let me know! Best of luck!

O.o like a push button start? I have wanted to do this with my car for quite some time I think itd be awesome!

+1 done that a few times... Loud clunk, but then I go to my buddies house, spray down his old garden/driveway (hes become a car scrapper so its just a dusty mudpit) and sit in the middle of it, put it back in 4WD and drive straight forward and disengage it gently just to be sure that its all working fine. Never have an issue though so as long as you gently lean on it like stated, it should pop down.

Might need to go to the junkyard and pull off two good looking calipers... Definitely sounds like a sticking caliper now that you have replaced the bearings (which isnt money wasted, you wont regret it) There are rebuild kits, but honestly, I have heard it wasnt worth it since they hardly fail. How does your brake fluid look? Check that, and if its a gross brown color, means some moisture got in the line and is rusting, which can cause the sticking/uneven caliper. Follow the directions in a haynes manual (I have one if youd like the bleeding order/directions in word form or something.) I bled my brakes and got a whole jar of gross brown fluid, I just bled each wheel until I got clear fluid out and I have no sticking caliper issues.

Would it be a bad idea to use "anti-seize" on some of these bolts? I know I read somewhere not to use it on lugnuts, but Ive used it on intake manifold bolts before and some other miscellaneous bolts.

Thanks a ton for the write-up Rob! Definitely looks like some work... But looks like the overall end effect is a great deal! Would you say its worth it? Is the ability to see greater with these?

I see no point in opening a can of worms about this. Everyone has their opinion of the lights, and thats fine. I will consider the projector headlight option, I first saw it on Mike Appel's wagon and thought it was an awesome idea but didnt want the metal plate on my headlights, then I saw Robs vehicle and thought it was awesome and plan to consider it if its within my skill level. Im sure once I do that, Ill still get flashed but whatever... Like I said, I dont care. Not that I dont care if it blinds people, I just dont care if they flash me. I have my stock bulbs, if I get pulled over for my lights, then I will accept the ticket and put the stock bulbs in.

Might try that... Im sure it couldnt hurt anything... just dont pull a Ferris Bueller.

They didnt work for me... I didnt see enough difference to be happy spending $40 on them. Whereas I spent that much and got 6000K and I can see like 2-3 blocks further and I can be seen. Sure people flash their brights at me all the time, but honestly, I dont care. They arent illegal whereas flashing your brights is... A cop reminded a guy in a Toyota of this when I was driving my friends Impreza... But in all fairness 2 headlights, 2 fog lights and 2 offroad lights, all with 6000K HID is a bit overkill

You want some help Rick? Id have no problem coming out and helping you work on some cars so you can get to WCSS in the Hatch or the SS or something! Whatever happened to that clutch job on the SS? Youre coming to WCSS though awesome!

Congrats Yea, Loyale sounds like a better choice. How many miles are on it?

I guess use price, mileage, maintenance (this is big), vehicle interior, exterior conditions. Also, look for the "needs to be replaced soon" projects VS recently replaced parts. Subarus are amazing machines but Ive seen them get neglected and then people say "oh that car was a piece of crap, cant believe I bought it" and I tell them "Shoulda kept up on the maintenance, no car is indestructible, but Subarus are damn close" Perhaps some more background on both the cars?