rxleone

Why did you put it back together even though you knew it was missing a part? Silly If you pull the radiator, lift the engine and pull it forward you should have enough clearance to get to it. Otherwise just pull the engine, and learn from your mistakes

Man, Brat is a way cooler name. I mean, we're New Zealanders, we should hate the Aussie name!!! Plus when I see a Brumby cruising down the road and say "Sweet! Check out that Brat!" people swing their heads and go "WHERE?!?" Brumby just doesn't have the same effect

Awesome! What TV show? I'll make sure I stay tuned

That is one beautiful engine. You never fail to amaze me Dave.

Yeah, I'd agree with this. I've even driven an EA82T about 500km (about 350 miles) on a blown head gasket and blown turbo (which was strangely enough a VF44 - the car had been an STI-converted rally hack in its day) oil seal. Went through about 5 litres of oil but made it relatively intact. Almost didn't sell it - it was the most bulletproof EA82T I've ever seen. I had my brother drive it for a while while following in my Legacy - was an interesting sight to see the blue smoke spiralling out of the exhaust. Damn turbos!! My hitachi-powered EA82 has done pretty well too. Its on 230,000km, and I'm yet to have a serious problem with the engine. The wheel bearings, and CVs however..... :banghead:

Check Ebay or Amazon - there's plenty out there, and Amazon sometimes does second-hand manuals for like $5.

Sounds like you've drained the trans or diff fluid my friend. I'd stop driving that if I were you, tell your friend to stay clear, and call a mechanic. Tell him exactly what you've done. Otherwise you'll be driving around your car on double engine oil and no diff/trans oil. And that is not a good thing.

Sounds like bad idlers to me - I would not drive it until someone competent has a look at it. When I did my stint at a parts store it was a classic warranty belt failure symptom on EJs - mainly DOHC EJ20s - bearing noise, seizes, the belt overheats. If you're lucky it melts onto the water pump, tensioners, and idlers, and stops the engine. Worst case scenario it snaps the belt, causing it to nine times out of ten bend your valves. Coming from someone who's had a belt snap and felt the full force of bent valves, I say; it is NOT a fun way to cause valve failure. This would ONLY happen to aftermarket tensioners and idlers. As soon as we pulled the aftermarket parts off the shelf and replaced them with genuine NSK Subaru parts, failures stopped happening. Are your parts genuine? I've also seen in the reports that there is a guide in the later model EJ engines above the crank sprocket to align the belt correctly. This alignment done incorrectly or not at all can also cause the belt to fail. You'd have to talk to a mechanic at a Subaru dealer about that one though, as I've only worked on older EJ engines.

Thanks Loyale2.7, thats the exact parts you need. Great to have the Part Numbers with it too - cheers for that!!

Awwwwww, but what about the "whippppsssshhh?" How the hell is the car going to run without that sound???

You'd be wasting your time on the EA82. You're pretty limited on things that can be done to make them faster without adversely affecting reliability. I'm not sure where you'd get high-flow heads either, unless RAM is making them for the EA82, I don't know. If the wiring side of things is putting you off, there is a carbed EJ18 model found in New Zealand, Aussie, and a few South American countries that runs a electronic distributor and standard carb with a carb manifold (they're quite cool, the cross-block water pipe is built into the manifold ) The good thing is there is a redundant gear drive on the passenger side of the EJ22 head, so its basically a bolt on affair. We've got quite a few in the junkyards here. They're hard to find in good nick at junkyards but I could probably try find you some and send them over. PM if you're interested, I'll check it out. Been meaning to for a while now..

Tis' a real shame you're selling it Dirk - Was hoping to take a trip down at some stage and check it out! Hope ya get what you're after for it anyways, and I'm sure another it'll lead to better things!

Keep going mate, and keep the photos up! Love seeing these old Brats restored, and yours is looking beautiful! Good work!

You'll need a turbo crossmember if I remember correctly for the EJs, otherwise your up-pipe won't fit.

You don't? How so? I thought the ECU would freak out when it sees boost..?

The head gasket set should come with a sheet showing you the pattern and the torque settings. At least, they do over here.

Totally agree. I can't believe the amount of people in the states that not just won't, but CAN'T, drive a manual. It takes about one or two hours (if that) to play around on a back street with the clutch and gas and get the hang of it. It's not hard, its more economic, you've got more control, and its more powerful. Automatics becoming the norm seems like a step backwards to me. Its easy, just start by taking off in first, once the car is warm, with no gas. Once you can do that a couple times. Start bringing a bit of gas in. Hell, my old man taught me to drive by not going over 2,000 RPM at all times. Must be how I can get on on piss-all gas.

You'd be better off just buying an EJ22T engine, harness, and ECU and installing that. You are aware of the need for an aftermarket ECU when fitting a turbo to a N/A engine right? ECU's can run from $500 upwards, and require dyno tuning by a tuner. So set aside another $500 minimum. We didn't get the EJ22T over here, but I hear they're an absolutely bulletproof engine. I'd just go down that route - or even buy an factory EJ22T-powered Lego. The N/A way, in my books, is more work then its worth. Or, you could just stay with the mighty 135HP N/A EJ22 - Good engine, reasonable power, excellent reliability, great economy, and you can save all the money you'd no doubt be spending on problems with your EJ22+T to buy a nice performance vehicle - where's the problem??

Any turbo will work of a fashion, it just depends whether it'll work well. The VF7 that the GL-10s run were quite small, so it'll spool fast, but will be difficult to make big boost. You'd be better off running a VF11 or something off an EJ20 RS Legacy. First off, are you using this turbo on a N/A EJ22? Or a already turbocharged engine?

Really? Any RX should have rear discs. There's not many over here, but enough to get by. I'm sure with all the RXs over there you should be right? EDIT: Sorry, should have read its an EA81 - I don't have much experience with them.

It's pretty simple mate. Just have a bit of a look, use some common sense, and come back in you have problems. Not trying to put you down or anything. It's just a good skill to be able to look at something and figure out how to take it apart and put it back together again.

Some beautiful scenery you guys have up that way Will have to do a USA mission at some stage and come wheeling with you guys!! ....the NZ boys will show you how its done....

Holy hell that is one cracked dash!!!

I have an 89 DL wagon, and in the DLs there are no speaker cutouts on the rear passenger doors. However there are some lines cutout in the boot kick-panel. I had little luck with those , as their doesn't seem to be any sort of strengthening to bolt the speakers to in the boot door without doing a bit of fabrication - which I couldn't be bothered with. I ended up buying some boxes, and bolting the boxes to the walls just to the rear of the rear seat clips. Seem to be holding alright, just make sure you fasten them properly.