obk25xt

Yes, you'll have to also remove the rear axles, and rear section of the driveline (from the carrier bearing back).

I have an idea.... SEARCH.... and look at FAQ's...... Not tryin to be a douche but all that is possible, and been done, and documented..... You're not going down any roads for the first time there..... Spencer

OK! nother update..... 96 OBDII harness is done. Frankenmotor is being built. (ej251 bottom end, phaseI 2.2 heads, Delta "torque" cams) I think 11.4:1 is the magic CR#. Engine is 100% "new" (cyl. hone, undersize bearing journals, new rings/bearings, heads rebuilt w/valve grind/stem seals etc.). I have an ACT streetlite flywheel, (the light one, 10.5 lbs I think?) new 2.5rs Exedy clutch kit, UEL stainless header, and phenolic manifold spacers. Transmission ended up going a little different direction than originally planned..... Now it will be, a 95 WRX (hooray for JDM!) trans (for the guts), front OBX helical LSD, 4.44 r&p, all going into a pull style trans case. I have a CLSD for the rear diff (also 4.44... duh...). For the suspension I still have skunkII sleeves over Nissan front struts and stock EA82 rear struts for the time being. This will have to do until I get a few miles on the new drivetrain. I will be installing the Megan fully adjustable coilovers as soon as I get a chance to. "Ummm, hey Leroy, think this thing is gonna hookup?!?" I am very very very excited for this thing to come to fruition. I've built this car 100 times over in my head and the daydream of driving it is just not enough anymore...... Oh.... This is gonna be good..... :cool:

Soooo, what did you do with this??

What!? you must be talking about 4th gen ea83.... surely you know that its clearly not seven, it's 12enty7... DUH! (doesn't everyone know that??)

OK, so I'm kinda goin off the deep-end with this... zzz Truck came with (extra parts): A single 4.56 third member IFS box Bought from a guy on yotatech: 2 Lock-Right lockers I bought off CL/Ebay: F250 front shock towers 14" travel shocks Rear u bolt flip kit A second 4.56 third member I've ordered..... ALL from SKY's maunfacturing: Chevy 63's kit Rear shock upper/lower mounts Boomerang shackles IFS box HD mount Front knuckle rebuild kit High Steer Front U bolt flip kit Have left to source: Rear springs, I think I have some 63's sourced local, but am considering F150's as well. The F150's are a little shorter on the rear side if ran backwards from what I read. I'm hoping to get underway on this thru January, first will be the lockers/gears. Then the susp/steering. It's kinda like this.... "Well, I can't change this till' I change that.. And can't do that till' this is moved.. And gotta move this to get to that...." My goal is to actually have it be 1-2" lower, wayyyy more flexy, ride like a Cadillac, and steer, well, better. When It's all said and done though, I'm expecting to have a potent little rig! I'll take pics through the build process too.....

I am in need of 1 good usable connecting rod from an EJ251/253, If you have one and are willing to ship it I will buy it.... Spencer

I know of a guy who uses ea 82 stuff on his ea 81 hatch wheeler. I can't be 100% sure of the specifics, he does have a wider than stock track due to using the longer stuff. I do know the ea 81 strut is smaller diameter where it enter the knuckle, so i believe you'd want to switch to ALL ea82 stuff and use the ea81 tophats. The part I can't recall on tat guys hatch is which crossmember he's using. I don't know if the width comes from longer control arms, or wider distance between the control arm mounts on the crossmember.

When I do get my own action shots it'll be at a wayyyyy better "mud hole" than the one you go wheelin in..... And.... It is.....

No.... Larger rotor=different spacing on the holes. You *could* tho..... Take both your right backing plates, bolt them together face to face through the caliper mounting holes because they should mirror each other (I think). Then, re-drill the pattern from one of the plates to the other one. If there is enough meat and the "dual pattern" doesn't overlap anywhere, you could make one of your rights into a left. This is all theory I'd have to look at one of mine to see if it is possible..... Pretty sure the difference is only in the 3 bolt holes in the middle of the plate.... Spencer

This truck is now for sale!!!! Has different wheels, better tires, and a canopy on it.... PM if interested........ Check out my NEW truck in my other thread

Okay, I decided it would be easier to buy someone else's hard work in a rig rather than do the work myself. I am mostly a "built not bought" type of guy, but I'm learning that I don't always have time to build EVERYTHING..... So I bought this...... 1984, 22re EFI swap (complete harness, zero cut wires), 5" lift, 33 BFG's, bilstien 5100's, KC's, CD, CB, flowmaster 2.25", 125,000miles on truck, 90,000 on engine, very nice bob job,interior is perfect, came with a couple extra 3rd's and an IFS steering box. I'm the 3rd owner, the kid I bought it from said it was 100% stock and untouched from the original (old guy) owner. All the work looks real nice and I think he did a fantastic job. All I wanna do is add hi-steer, and build some springs in the rear to get rid of those blocks! Pics are from the guy I bought it from so I can't take credit but....... (I'm so stoked)

Sorry, had to...... Read..... http://hyperboleandahalf.blogspot.com/2010/04/alot-is-better-than-you-at-everything.html Spencer

I have thousands and thousands of miles on a lifted subie and can for surely say, if lifted correctly, axles will last waaaayyyyyyyy longer than 5,ooo a pop. Even at 1-2" over stock geometry they will last longer. That said, I've seen people with stock subarus go thru them like nobody's business. There are 2 main factors I attribute this to..... A) Quality of reman'd axle. Driving style I'm sure there will be more support of this opinion.

I have a little personal experience with them, there was some on an old (stock, flathead) willys jeep I used to drive off road where I used to live in east Battle Ground. They were actually pretty good in the mud, I would probably get a hot knife and put some more grooves in them to help with the cleanout/lugs toward the center of the tread. Also, I believe they are pretty hard durometer and would last a loooong time on a light vehicle like the soobs..... Spencer

I'm not sure about the historic gen stuff. BUT! I had the same problem with a 2000 outback, I called the dealer in hopes of getting the white plastic socket piece. It was futile, I ended up paying $200 for an entire assembly. Your best bet is to attempt to source one used I'm assuming. In my case rainX did wonders while I searched for a used one, only to end up buying the new one from the dealer..... RainX is your friend

Diggin the bumper work... Is that a bucket full of birfs and aisin hubs I see there!?

lets see some pics!!!!!

Thats seems weird, I ordered mine from rockauto. They are Brembo and I think I paid less than $20/ea for them.

Nope. Those hubs are the key to the 5 lug swap. You can make backing plates or caliper brackets if you have to. You can use any EA/ER rear caliper, and the rotors are available at most auto parts stores.

x2, same with mine.......

Oh Nic... This coming from the guy who dropped a tophat bolt down the combuster hehe... (sorry man, had to) :-p

What I appreciate most about this thread is. You are doing it all yourself. There is a lot to be said for that. This looks like it will be quite the machine, hope to see progress. $0.02 Spencer

Whichever part it is that you need, I have one and you can have it for the price of the shipping. Just let me know. Thanks, Spencer Take a pic if necessary.....

I want my frankenmotor! :-p