WoodsWagon

I believe it is to the passenger side of the throttle body screwed into the intake manifold on the 2.2's. I could get off my lazy but and go out in the cold to look, but, it is cold outside.

If you have the engine bay space, why not stack rotors? My neighbor has around 10-15 RX7's of all ages, none turbo. He says that proper port work can help a lot in the rotary's. I once saw a video of a tripple stacked RX7 wheelying half way down the 1/4mile.

Are both the passenger and drivers side shoulder belts plugged into the auto seatbelt bracket? That is the only thing that will turn on the seatbelt dude.

Go for it. The loyale's are higher, so the bumper may clear the other cars, smooshing their radiatiors. DO NOT CHEAT. Not fair, and someone might get hurt. I think the most hardcore demo derby is the banger racing that they practice in UK. I went through a bunch of the websites, and they were using Transit vans vs. car based vans. People left in ambulances and helicopters. They also practice "chained pairs", where 2 cars are chained together and compete with other chained pairs. The last pair dragging winns. All the racing is done on a loop course, not a pit, so the speeds get up there.

Redrilling the flywheel is a PITA. Me and my father just spent 4 hours cleaning, measuring, setting up, milling, drilling, and installing the flywheel. The bolt spacing is equal on the EJ's, but it is a f'd up offset pattern on the EA's so that the flywheel can only be installed one way. The Bridgeport chewed the new holes out easy though, and the flywheel fit on like a glove.

We're talking about a 1992 Loyale here folks. This isn't an EA81. The EA82's were deffiniatly designed with emissions equipment in mind. The EA82 was probably designed in the early 80's, and emmision controll legislation for the US came in like '74 I think. So the idea of reducing NOx was not outlandish. And the method's for doing it were proven by then, so it wasn't a crappy V8 smothered in an equal weight of black magic emmision controll vacuum lines, pumps, thermo swiches, and vacuum motors.

That happened to my tank, actually, it rusted the nipples off. I just put in a new tank because the seams were looking questionable. The nipples are actually the end of pipes inside the tank, it's to help stop raw fuel sloshing into the EVAP system. Just JB weld a new nipple onto it, doesn't even have to be in the same spot, just at the top of the tank, and hook the hose to it.

The wiring harness also exits the firewall into the quarter panel area through a rubber grommet. If the grommet has popped out, water inside the quarter pannel thrown up by the tire could run in.

Watch your "new subaru's don't offroad" comments. Why not go all the way? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45871&page=7&highlight=outback+bumper Go to post #69

No, it's not another case of the bearings failing in the column, I bent it. The splined end where the U-joints join on is bent, so that it wanders in a bigger circle when you turn the wheel. The U-joints are binding too because of the tweakedness. I'm not sure how it happened, I know when it happened. I bottomed the car out real hard, accordianed the oil pan, and ripped the radiator hoses off, so the engine moved a lot. The crossmember doesn't seem bent, but for the rack to move toward the steering column, it must have. Anyone have this happen before? Or am I abusive to the car beyond the norm?

Thanks for using paragraph's 2 and 3 to support my claims. But we're just a bunch of smartypants and should shut up. While you're ripping off all the emmisions junk, remember that you must replace your exhaust headers with the largest possible to help the massive power that you have tapped in the engine flow out. Rip off the Egr, and when you rip off the carbon cannister and all it's vacuum lines, which must be sucking power away, make sure to notice the whopping milage and power gains.

I take all the keys I find in the Junkyard. Never know when you might need a spare key. The snap off bolt heads are right on top of the column. The switch is held on with a small phillips. Take the switch off, and turn it with a screwdriver. That will start the car, but then you need to unlock the wheel through removing the cylinder. A method I have used in the past is a chisel ground to be the size of the key. The chisel had a hexagonal body, which a wrench could be put on. I hammered the chisel into the lock, and smooshed the tumblers by cranking on it with the wrench. You can also drill out the cylinder, tumblers and all.

What are the gauges in the gauge pod? I can't see well enough in the pictures. Have you ditched the auto tranny for a 5 speed yet?

The part right where the two pipes from the heads join together is the Catalytic converter. The rounder thing down the pipe behind the tranny is the resonator. Do whatever you want after the cat. If you have a leak between the head's and the cat, it will backfire in the cat like mad. Eventually the ceramic honey comb in the cat will shatter and fall out the end of the pipe, and the popping will stop. So will the pollution controll of the cat, but whatever.

If you're going at the switch because you think it will help the car handle better, don't bother. It was built with FWD in mind, and the weight distribution is better for a FWD. Hanging the engine infront of the front axel helps put more wheight up there. But if you are going for fun driving with the added spice of sideways action, go for it. Don't use the Full Time 4wd tranny, the center diff is known to blow it's locking mechanism when being used in RWD setups. It then becomes NWD, NO wheel drive. The pushbutton and D/R trannys should be good, both have the same 4wd engagement in the tranny. With pushbutton, make real sure that the 4wd is fully engaged and use some wire or something to lock it there. If you can, get a limited slip rear end. It makes whipping donuts easier.

Also check the rubber bushings that the strut rod's bolt into. The strut rods are the 3/4" diameter bars that come back to the floor under you feet from the radius arm. If they get too worn, they can cause spontaneous lane changes.

Another thing to consider: High combustion temps = susceptability to detonation. While you have a larger mixture charge in the cylinder, you also have more detonation, so It's a mixed bag. NOx is also a major smog pollutant. It reacts with the sunlight to make smog. If you care about that though. Many EJ22's never came with EGR. Not having the hose hooked up to the valve will create a vacuum leak, so you might want to plug the vacuum hose. Leaving the hose plugged will deactivate the EGR valve and work the same as a cover plate. If you have smog police, put a BB in the vacuum line, then reattach it. The bb will invisably block the vaccum flow, and everything looks like it is still properly hooked up.

If you need a pit to throw the car over so you can take a good look at everything, you're welcome at my house. Check the PCV valve, if it is jammed open, it can start sucking oil up. It will make it idle rough though.

So you think that it will seal well enough to perform well at running speed? I've got another ej22 I can rip the heads off of to rebuild eventually. So I'll keep an eye on it and hope for the best.

I did say some unprintable words. The engine ran fine before I took it apart, so is it unreasonable to expect that things will reseat themselves?

After cleaning up and rebuilding the bottom end of my EJ22, I checked the dimentions of everything in the head and cleaned up any carbon deposits. I didn't have the money to have a valve job done, so I reassembled everything with new gaskets, water pump, and whatnot. I finally got it properly timed today, and I noticed that my intake valve leak. You can hear air hissing past them when I crank the engine by hand. Will this solve itself when I get the engine installed and running, or should I tear the heads back off and down and pay for a valve job?

you can bash them through a lot of things, just have to keep momentum up. Getting stuck with one wheel in the are is likely, the center diff can only transmit so much power to the other wheels.

Bump for mary's in may.

97mph, downhill SPFI EA82 5spd with 30" mud king tires. With the check engine light on. Burtonsnowman- I bet the tires on my car were as loud as the exhaust on the legacy. They are insanely loud. The thing to consider most about speed is the tires you have on the car. many tires are not rated for speeds over 85 mph, meaning that tread separation and carcass failure are possibilities. So doing 150mph on tires that were ment for <85 is stupid. I can gaurantee you will not maintain controll if a tire disintegrates at that speed.

Do you have the plastic far drivers side cover off? Once you do that, things will get easier to diagnose. It's not hard, and if the captive nuts strip out in the plastic, just pry the front cover off with a screwdriver. DO NOT DAMAGE THE REAR COVER. that is where the timing mark is.