WoodsWagon

Heh, who needs a carfax report? I guess this one would be listed under "flood damaged" Good to see an offroader back in action.

Hey, it looks like it has made a complete rebirth from a totaled wreck to a viable racer. Nice Job! PS, where did that 3-door grill end up? Was it on JWX's car?

Sorry yer getting a hard time, Tracy, but the first post ranckled some I guess. Guys, what he is saying is right. +The snorkus on the stock airbox has the heat stove inlet in it. this is pulling air from the ground around the exhaust pipes. Normally this warmer air then goes throught the filter in the airbox, butthis filter is no longer there! So unfiltered air is being pulled in in large quantitys. +The multiple turns in the system make it inefficient. This acutually will reduce preformace if anything. Run a 90 off the carb straight back and put the cone on the pipe where you have it. + the filter needs a box around it and a foam edge to seal the box to the hood when the hood is closed. Then it will be ram air. It's a good Idea,it just needs improvement. Keep modding, and good luck!

As the previous posters said, heat, penetrating oil, and whacking seem to make the difference. I've found penetreaing oil and whacking work well. The whacking seems to help the oil work its way into the threads. Good luck!

It really should have blown by now. To get a sense of the bent rod knocking, imagine driving around with a midget under the hood with a ball-peen hammer whacking away. It sounds ruthless.

Give us a few years, and all this will be a problem of the past. Your in car OnStar system will measure your speed an automaticly call the cops when you excees, say 90MPH. You will then be fined, or sent to jail, and the roads will all be perfecly safe with nice law abiding people filling them. People are already using it to track unfaithful spouces, so there's no reason cops can't use it to controll speed limits. Hopefully that pesky amendments section of the constitution won't get in the way. Seriously, I can't belive that there is any driving member of this board who hasn't sped. It's not the end of the world. I belive 30mph over in New hampshire makes it reckless. A bit more and it's a felony. So tecknically I'm a multiple felon. Am I a bad person? Most of my speeding has been in realitively clear roads. I slow down for pedestrians, and try to be a courteous driver, but sometimes it's nice to let the car breathe. Keep it to the track, No street racing, No back road rallying, It's all very good advise (And I'm not being sarcastic about this) When you're doing any illegal behavior with another car participating, Things can get competetive and out of hand real fast. I almost participated in a brutal crash, because of said competitiveness. Luckily, the car I was folowing just missed the truck and trailer on the dirt country road, thus avoiding the 3 vehicle 45mph pileup that could have happened. It would have sucked, people would have gotten badly hurt, and I would have been up sh*t creek. I always think back to this when I rise to the bait of competive behavior. Sorry for the long post, but I'm torn between the preaching of our elders and the irresponsibe urges of youth (which are still fun )

I've been driving around my wagon as necessity calls for, and, remarkably, it has made it everywhere i wanted it to go. I now have 24 miles on the engine since I bent the connecting rod. The motor origionaly swallowed water while turning at 4k rpms, lost it's coolant, and had the oil pan bashed in. All in the same trip, and It made it out under its own power. The motor is hard to start, takes pumping the gas (SPFI, really shouldn't make a difference, but it does) to get it to fire, but once it's running, its good to go. It makes the loudest death rattle I have heard an engine make and still run, but will still pull hard enough to get the car up to 65mph. It has grounding issues now, overheats like never before, and smells like a swamp from sinking, but it is overall still drivable. Any other engine would have kicked the bucket by now, but this one keeps on ticking, or knocking as it seems. Go EA82 I picked up my EJ22 from school in it, so It's twin engine right now. When the EJ is in, I will be styling.

Are you sure it's running on all cylinders? That would lead to rough running undder accel and poor preformance. yank the wires one by one off the distributor cap untill you find the one that doesn't affect engine speed. It could also be a plug gapped too wide, so that under load it doesn't fire.

2wd RX? Then it isn't an RX and is merely a turbo. So its probably AWD w/ center lock. good rally car, doesn't really need a lift.

There was some discussion over the XT6 clutch, and I believe the consensus was that the only difference was the milling pattern of the flywheel, and that the spring tension of the pressure plate was eqivalent. I may very well be wrong, but that's what I recall.

This would be a good thing for us EJ22 swappers. The EA82 tranny and flywheel is used on the EJ, so the clutch needs to be able to hold the 130hp rather than the 90 it came with.

How can you even laugh about that

I saw a loyale that was used for banger racing in Britian, and it made it through multiple heats. My sugestion is to run FWD. Most of the work of a demo car gets done by the back end, so.... 4wd would kick butt, if only the regs alowed it. too much of an advantage. If your demo club allows frame welding, take off the quarter panels and weld some plate onto the crumple zones on the front of the frame rails. Put the quarter panels back on and you're good to go. Auto trannys can be weak. Don't worry about overheating. My car is having serious issues and the temperature gauge actully goes 3/8" past the end of the red zone, and it still runs. Smells funny when its that hot though.. If the loyale doesn't have a skidplate, pick up one off of a car in the J/Y. And take the oil pressure sender off and replace it with a short bolt. The part of the front end that will bend is the radius rod, the bar that runs from the control arm back to the frame. If regs alow it, strengthen that puppy up. Have fun and be sure to post pics.

Thanks all who responded. I will run without covers untill I get back in the money again (spent 600 on this sucker just in parts) and put new covers back on. Josh has a darn good point... The new water pump will get its seals done in If I don't replace them and the Idler pullies/tensioner might get trashed too. I'm going to be doing a 1000 mile no-clutch-dumps no booning break in period, so I should be safe without. But when I get back in the woods, the new covers must go on. Anyone know how much they cost?

The dual range may be missing the neutral position switch, which will throw a code. Other than that, its plug and play.

So 1 for and 1 against stripping them off. I have a spare belt. I also beadblasted the cam pullies... I appreciate the input. Any more votes? Oh, BTW, the right hand side head got hot enough to melt the plastic of the cover around the 2 bolts that hold it to the head, so its alignment is now suspect when I reinstall it. Plus, the black plastic looks cheap against the polished aluminum block. I think that anyone can tell where I'm leaning, but I could be swayed by a horror story of open timing belts.

The word on the EA82 street is that running without is OK offroad. There is entrances for water around the cam angle sensor, so I'm afraid that muddy water will be held in there, Fubar'ing the seals. But I'm also afraid of a rock getting caught and breaking the belt.

The reciever has to be centered between the two frame rails. If it is offset, like that one is, the leverage it gets will help rip the bumper off the body. Believe me, we had a front bumper rigged up like that, except it was welded on, on a toyota. W/ the 12K pull winch, it didn't even slow down as the frame tore off in front. If it had been centered, it would have been fine, but it wasn't and that concentrated the force.

I screwed up the old covers pretty good, what with the bolts stripping, the inserts turning, and one breakage incident. I don't even want to ask what the price for a replacement pair from the dealer would cost, so I was wondering if it could be run without the covers? The parts of the cover behind the cam pullies have notches to help allign the pullies, but I was figuring I could make a tab or something to replace that. The Timing marks for setting the timing are on the font cover, refrencing the crank pully, but those are'nt really necacerry because the EJ motors don't have a disty. One other fact to consider is that the motor will be in an offroading car, so mud and water will be encountered. Will this break the belt, or will debris be thrown free?

Heat will toast his bearings. With everything still hooked up to the car, but the car up on jackstands, loosen the nut on the end of the axel. Back the nut out so that all the threads are engaged and it is flush with the end of the axel. Put a pressure treated 2x4 between the axel and your Big Fat Hammer and whale on the thing. The axel should pop out and move in about 1/2 inch. Then remove the ball joint clamp, roll pin, and yank the axel out.

With a legacy like this one, with outback struts as the only lift, can you run 21/70R15's on it without rubbing? I'm thinking of winter tires for my dad's brighton and wondering how big I can go.

Part of it is in the head. The head off of the EJ22 has a different pitch between the two exhaust ports, even though they are not siamesed. One port is longer than the other, hence having a lower sound. Next time you have the heads off, tap the valves (with a spring on) with a plastic hammer. Two differen't notes. Firing order plays a big part too. The EJ without exhaust behind the cat sounded like a V8 at idle. It has to do with the pulses overlapping. Any engine with straightpipes sounds like trash to me. Loud pipes just make your tresspasing more obvious and the cops have an easier time finding you.

Might want to run some lateral braces down the plate. Maabe between the side of the sump and the pipes? If that gets hit, it will bend and pull the front mounts at an angle, ripping them out of the body. Just a suggestion. Looks nice though.

Aye, It twill look mighty good to the eye, but when the inspectors hook the obd2 connector up to the car and look in read data, it will say MIL on. Then the modification will be found and you will look like a donkey.

Not disrespecting the HP, but I think I have done some hardcore wheeling W/ my wagon. I may suck at driving and be too stupid to know when to let off,but don't tell me I do wussy wheeling. I'm too busy smashing the car through things to take pictures. The only time pictures are taken is when a vehicle is stuck, AKA sunk, buried, or on its roof. Yes, I have been in vehicles doing all 3, luckily the on roof was in a samuri. I've hammered my car into holes that I knew lifted yota's had already been sunk in, and got stuck too. i get a little hot under teh collar when "nobody wheels as hard as the hatch patrol" Hrrumph. as a side note, the word for a young cat is censored?