Scoobywagon

Nah. BUt I'm working on that, too. I run a car stereo/autoglass shop.

I'm in Bremerton. Well... I live in Port Orchard, work in Bremerton.

I'll double check, but I don't think the EJ22 was ever offered in the Forester. I think they're ALL EJ25's. ** EDIT ** Just looked at your link. That motor is advertised as being from a 99 Legacy. I'm clue-free as to his meaning on the 8-bolt thing. I think he's likely full of you-know-what and wants to make his engine sound moar awsummer than it is so that he can justify asking $500 for it.

prep the surface with 3M General Adhesive Remover. Clean with alcohol. Adhere with either 3M double sticky tape (good stuff) or Urethane (even better ... unless you EVER want to remove that trim again).

go to rostra.com. They make aftermarket cruise kits. These are the kits that we install in my shop. They have an application guide that will tell you everything you need to have for install.

I have not done one of these, specifically. However, for the most part, sunroofs are sunroofs with only a few minor variations on the theme. Generally, there will be 2-3 screws per side. Back those out and be VERY careful not to lose them. Pull the glass. A pair of really good suction cups is just the thing here. Install your new glass by reversing that procedure. One additional step that I'd recommend, since you're going to have it apart anyway, is cleaning out the drain lines. Or at least check them to make sure they flow properly. Those drains are really small and clog easily.

Working in a glass shop, I can tell you that the best/most reliable place to get that glass is the dealer. There are a couple of distributors that deal in sunroof glass, but they're really just getting it from the manufacturer so it doesn't save you anything.

Well, lets face it...if you start helicoiling everything, you'll be the only kid on your block with a helicoiled alarm clock. Or toilet. Toaster. VCR (you still have one???). Whatever.

I'm not sure what the model is, but the transmission shop up the street from my shop has the single most awesome parts washer I think I've ever seen. Its a vertical rotisserie system and it works like a charm.

This is the one I have. http://www.canobd2.com/Products/ToolDetail.aspx?Id=AF26F45409CD44DBA95B57B28C545F05 Mine happens to wear bluepoint badges, rather than innova. It doesn't do EVERYTHING I want, but it does a LOT. And the live data function is really useful.

If all you want is logging, and I assume that means real time access to live data, there are a number of good options for scantools that do that. Many even support offloading data to a PC for analysis.

The best place really is NAPA's HELP section. Otherwise, you're down to pilfering at a junkyard

That amp has been out of production for about 3 years now, so they aren't warrantying it. Be careful there. On the other hand, Memphis DOES still make a big 5-channel amp. It is currently called the 16-mc5.1400. Retails for about $1100 or so. **WARNING** many car stereo manufacturers do not honor warranties on equipment purchased over the internet. Just FYI.

If you want one, I'll paint it for you. You buy the crane and paint. And maybe a beer or two for me. I think you're in CT, though. Is that right? If so, shipping might be a tad high.

The tweeters and mids should be on the same circuit. There should be a crossover network of some variety somewhere to make it all work properly. The powered sub does not use the deck's power to run. It merely gets signal from the deck. Also, your new deck may show a 50w per channel rating, but I REALLY doubt you'll ever see it. You MIGHT get 10-15 watts per channel out of it. And I wouldn't get all caught up in the power ratings on the speakers. They mean ALMOST nothing at all. As long as you keep the power clean and don't run the deck into clipping, you can put HUGE amounts of power through a speaker.

That's a little tight for working space, but it could be done.

I'm thinking perhaps the use of a pneumatic surface prep tool. Angle grinder with 3m Roloc pad chucked in it. Bring it down to the shop and I may be able to help you with it.

No, it won't heat up the plastic, but the plastic is very soft and it will be VERY easy to go right through the plastic or even just dish it or deform it.

It won't be inside. You'll have to get on your back under the rear passenger side corner. There's a brace there that unscrews easily and the whole thing will drop out.

I'd imagine that it does, but I have no experience with it. I'm not sure I would bother. I'd just sand carefully. But if you have access to the equipment, sounds like a good plan. Just be careful so as to not burn a hole in the plastic.

As has been said... Scuff the chrome with sandpaper, use a good self-etching primer, paint. No problem.

Most systems call for somewhere around 6 ounces of oil. Having said that, you're replacing the compressor and receiver/dryer which account for the vast majority of the oil in the system. I would simply add 4 ounces because there's no telling how much is in the system as is and a little over or under won't matter a lick. As for pressures, that's going to be determined by a number of things, not the least of which is ambient temperature. There's just no way to tell you what the "correct" pressures are. Mostly, you want to see the high side somewhere between 4 and 6 times the pressure of the low side.

i've not seen a prefab bar, but it shouldn't be too hard to build one.

As nipper said, there's really nothing to check. The fact that you were able to move the clutch fork by hand AT ALL while the clutch pedal was pressed means precisely one of two things. Both have been mentioned. Either the clutch fork is not under tension because it is broken, or it is not under tension because the slave cylinder is not applying force to it. Of the two, a failed hydraulic component is more likely. Given that the slave cylinder is a recent-ish replacement, and the fact that you aren't leaking, you're pretty much down to a master-cylinder. It COULD still be a slave cylinder, but I doubt it.

Type of wrenching: Shadetree What: Subaru's and Ford Diesels How long: Off and on for 20 years or so. Other skills: low-voltage electrical, data systems engineering, software development, dog training (sort of), troubleshooting.