WJM

So ive got a set of brand new never been used USDM STi EJ257 pistons. Thinking...bore is 92mm on EA82x..and 99.5mm on EJ25x..... I wonder if its feasibly possible to bore it out that far and remain mostly reliable...or better to sleeve it to 99.5....and then...I wish I were at home so I could measure things out...see if the heads would have a problem with the coolant passages. Either way, by my calculations, it would be about 2080cc's with the STi EJ257 bore/pistons, and keeping the stock stroke. I really dont think it would work w/out spending some serious $$$$ on sleeving...and I do have some extra blocks that I could try the boring on...but im open to all speculations on this. That means you too benebob. :-p

I have not installed it yet. Ive got to install some speakers, and figure out why the stock power door locks dont work.

Yes.

Ah...i see no one seems to have advice... I got the SUBARU tech install instructions today.

Damnit Kent.... That was actually me posting...he forgot to log out.

tracking numbers: 1ZR71W096800301040 1ZR71W096800301059

they will be shipping them as I type this now, or first thing in the morning. I talked to Keith today....and he will send me a tracking # when they ship.

hahaha...another wow in a thread im in.... id recommend draining coolant, and letting the engine run for about 30 secs...to evap the coolant remaining in the head/HG area...let cool completely, and TQ heads down to 60 or so.

sounds like the case is toast too.... :-\

can do either way.

Yes.

I agree. When mine was done to the FSM specs...it leaked after 4 days.

Ok, tell away! Cool, RX's are great...especially free ones. Do you get to keep this one? Hot oil smell=BAD. Melted T-belt covers=BAD. Frozen Cam=BAD. is there a stuck valve making the camnot want to turn? And explain by not getting the cam tower off...the cam 'case' wont ome off the head? Heads sound fu-bared.... Rust=no issue really. Gen 2 heads. Gen 3 has a box around the EA82 casting. I would not trust the SB..im sure it can be used, but i would be cautious. I personally have used worse with good results....as experimental engines. They performed great until the final demise of the NAPA head gaskets...or too much boost/fuel. I would not mess with the EGR...i's take the pipe off the EGR valve and dis connect it from the vac sourse and leave it at that. Ive had several combos on non egr heads to egr manifolds and vice versa...and i've always done away with the EGRs. You got 'em!

*said in mournfull 'Hobbie' voice* Its the CU HGs..... Edit: let me explain...there's not enough TQ on the HGs. Did you use any sealant?

interesting. The RX's of the era are 2520. I know the 87+ are heavyer due to different materials and safety requirements....2670 for the coupe.

im thinking 2520 or so.

TOO MUCH!! $1599.00 I have not checked avalibility tho.

RX is 3.70

Adjust the clutch cable. Do It Sidewayz: ive heard from the land of OZ/NZ it can be done...externally the cases are very similar. However, I do realize the NZ guy who had the white sedan DID have a complete RA box, no question on that. It was not clear in the early days...but later on he clarified it was the whole RA box. WRX center diff is a viscous coupler. I have two of them. Sideways on autox=slow times. No drifting for me. GRIP GRIP GRIP. As for the gearset...its alot cheaper than buying an STi tranny like I originally wanted to do. Eitehr way, i dont know who's really right or wrong, but im going to atleast try. I know that my 3rd and 4th are pretty bad...and ive tried almost everything. Its got 100% synthetic in it now.

all RX's 85-89 should have LSD rear...and they are clutch type.

maybe just different stages in development...

have the car up about 2 ft on jack stands on the front. Then...you should be able to rotate the crossover pipe enough to get it out w/out having to lift the engine at all. Ive never had to lift the engine to get the pipes in and out, even the TWE stuff. But, if you must, unbolt the turbo side engine mount, and jack that one side up.

Ok, so...the RX's syncros are going to be shot for sure by the time next autox season comes to a close...maybe even before then. I really like the locking center diff....but, with it being open, i tend to get severe front wheel spin on take off, or inside front spinning on corner exit.... So... Im seriously considering getting new syncros...but, while its apart...get the STi RA gear set (the gear set of choice for those putting massive power thru a 5 spd AWD box), and take out the open diff...and replace it with a stock WRX unit, and maybe see if I can get some tougher/faster or what not syncos while im at it. Supposidly the gearsets are interchangeable and the diffs too. I was also thinking about the Cusco 35/65 planetary center diff...and having Cusco redo the front to a clutch LSD, and get a rebuilt rear thats a little stronger. What do you guys think? Id also either keep the D/R, or use a S/R box and go for 4.111 or 4.444 final.

i drove one of those AWD chrysler variants...a 97....the only good thing its going going for it....is the AWD...maybe. its gutless and handles like crap. gets off the line somewhat well tho.

holy old thread bump bat man!