WJM

You just need to find an XT with coil rears, and swap those in. And find an early Impreza/Legacy and swap those in (whole strut assemblies that is) And you're done.

Check the engine/trans mounts...one of them could be ready to let go.

Whats the price? I want TWO (2)

YES! I SEEN THAT! My guess is t-stat and air in the cooling system....get a compression check done, put it all back together and see whats what. I've done those types of things too many time...when i get something running again...i usually have it running and reving it in place where its put back together for atleast 30 mins before test drive...and the first test drive it usually no more than 1/2 mile away....then I bring it back, shut it down...and check for any and all problems...then repeat the process...and let the car sleep overnight...then...in the morning...warm it up...and haul rump roast! Are you sure the timing belt didnt come off? I know ive had several come off/break and its usually associated with timing belt when I hear the POP and no power/no engine run.

no, I wont use the XT6 cybrid pump....too much of a hassel. I'll just hook it up to a standard XT pump. I need to look at the specs of the XT6....where's my XT6 FSM when I need it...

I have no clue...Ive never had one with a factory skid plate...but the way I am starting to drive the RX...i may need one... That side pipe setup I did away with...a tad noisy and not legal...and I'd like the exhaust to exit out the back... So...Im putting in a universal 3 way cat, 2.5 inch ID, in the location of where the stock second cat would be (almost) and going with the 2.5 inch cat back I previously had on there...and installing a Thrush Glass Pack, again 2.5 inch ID, as the 'muffler'...mostly doing this so I can pass emissions testing here...and I want to muffle it a little and exit it out the back...and i would like to not polute as much... So technically...and size/type would fit if you've got a welder, pipe, portaband...and a place to do all this...aka a concrete pad infront of your house...oh, and jack stands and a jack.

I know that "to the bridge" (which is about a 0.2 mile run) there is NO difference in top speed between the stock stuff, cone filter, or chop box...only noise differences. This RX is going to stay as stock as possible....maybe an oil cooler addition...and its got a recirc setup that stays. The only mods that increase the "TTB" speed is...boost w/full intake, IC, full exhaust and so on... Dyno results from the chop box, cherry bomb and 12 PSI only show 118 hp...thats THREE (3) HP increase over stock. :-\

So what is the issues from keeping the RX wagon running? I know mine are...no PS/AC, loose steering column bearing (FIXED) and....a legal exhaust.

Yes. The original as it comes factory setup.

Better than having to saw all over the steering wheel with the manual rack...It wasnt THAT bad w/out PS...but the sterring column bearing being knocked out made it BAD for autox...that and street driving is a bitch. After looking in the FSM...and seeing that the manual racks are SLOWER...id rather not have to put MORE input into the car with only a little less effort....I'll take less input with ease for this. STi rack here I come!

The RX units are the same height as the 4WD ones...but are 2x the bound/rebound as the Non-RX units...makes for a stiffer ride, and MUCHO better handling...as well as making the car feel ALOT more stable.

the NAPA i deal with/used to work at...I can get the "660-1764" for $93.00....but Id have to special order it...as none of the local warehouses have it... :-\

I would personally go to the dealer and get the RX struts. Here are the PNs: 25120GA240 Right side 25120GA250 Left side

What he said. I do know that the 4WD stuff seems to be a bit more than 2WD...but not by much. I remember at NAPA when I worked there...even WITH my employee discount, they were about $78 a side...2WD or 4WD. My KYB GR2 2wd fronts came from some place online, and w/out any kind of discount, they were $58 each.

Ummm....dealer? If you get a core narrowed down at NAPA, I can get it for you ALOT cheaper if you want to go with one from NAPA...I just need the part number.

Ok...if you've got an FSM...why not use it!? Looks like the high side is a max of about 924 PSI... AND! XT's have a QUICKER PS rack! YAY! I just happen to have one of those laying around....cool! So...now I just need to find some flexible line to make PS lines and put a cooler in....

I believe thats either the Purge solinoid for the EVAP system or the EGR solinoid....either one of those not fuctioning on an 87+ should have the ECS/Check engine light on after some time of running....

Its got stock sized piping. And...DUH!

Mods....depending on what you want for the car...and If you'd like to keep it daily drivable. My GL-10 would still be a great daily driver...IF I put the PS back in! Cuz the AC still worked great, and it got good gas mileage...depending on how heavy my foot was...lol If you want some better handling...little bit more power..and some better looks...with daily driving still in mind...here is what I would do... Front suspension: Poly control arm bushings, Steering rack bushings, KYB GR2 front struts w/250 lb 10 in tall springs, and some cusco camber plates for WRX (or equvilant) That will give you MUCH better turn in response and MUCH better handling. Leave the stock sway bar alone for now. Rear suspension: RX rear dampers with 350 lb 8 inch tall std coil over springs, and an 18~20 MM rear sway bar. This will make the pushing like a pig go away, increase cargo capacity (reducing squat) and really give some feel to the car, and the ride will still be quite good. Go with an RX or XT6 Full Time 4WD 5spd conversion with a rear LSD to match. This will give you traction in all conditions and you will really beable to put the power down! **NOTE: If you do not go with 4WD rear suspension...increase the spring height to 10 inches** Engine: Skip can make an awesome lightened flywheel, and go with an XT6 Clutch/presure plate. Header and exhaust will add a nice note and increase power in the mid and low range...depending on the type of muffler used, low end will increase as well. For the intake...LEAVE IT ALONE! The stock stuff is great. Just drop in a high flow replacement filter and call it done. Cams can be done as well....just make sure to not go overboard with those. Too aggresive of a grind can cause daily driver trouble...the 260 Delta cams do a good job of opening up the top end...with no noticable issues with drivability on a daily basis. Tuning the timing in is another thing that can really free up some more power of these engines...although i noticed that any fuel will work fine in the SPFI engines...but of all the other work is done...then run 93 octane! If you want to crack into the engine...uping the compression ratio will increase power across the entire power band considerably. Going with lighter/strong higher compression pistons and light/strong rods will add quite a bit to these engines...but those items dont come cheaply. An RX body kit installed properly really does add quite the look to the car. Alloy wheels also complement the look quite nicely. Perosnally I am a big fan of the Premier Alloys, but the Motions look good as well. Ok, looks liek my 2 mins are up!

Replace the Oxygen sensor. That is likely the problem. I replaced the O2 on my RX, previously only getting ~430 km per tank, and after replacing it, I was getting ~610 km per tank ...So, do the O2 first!

So...I finally got off my rump roast and put in the catless DP to complement the catless second cat on the Grassroots RX. Here are the specs...ITS COMPLETELY STOCK! No MBC, no fancy intake as its all factory, the suspension is factory, and blah blah....the only mods are the DSM Gen1 BOV i have set up for recirc, a "cherry bomb" and the two gutted cats. The whol exhaust is 2 inches back to the cats, and it looks like 2 1/4 cat back...but the 'bomb' is more like a pea shooter...2 inches at most. Road test...the turbo is at FULL BOOST at 2200!! Amazing...I wonder why...Before hand, with an open intake (cone on t3h MAF) it wouldnt get to full boost until 2500 or later. And for some reason...throttle response is the same if not better than other intake setups....me thinks SUBARU has the stock intake systems designed very well...as stock WRX/STi intakes are plenty good for power levels up to 400~450 hp...and there is not too much difference between the two designs... I thought I'd share...

Id take the whole fuel system apart and clean it religiously. Even the tank. SOunds like the tank may be rusty inside...or debris in it getting to the pumps or clogging filters up...

SWEET. Non-US Subies are always cool to see!

Im lazy...so I copy and paste!

So whats the fate of the old digi dash?