singletrack

Ok, so i got the lift in - It was a bear. But it's done, it's solid, the car is siting on its wheels. I just took it for a test drive, and everthing was more or less ok. But I can't hit third gear! It doesn't want to stay in 1st either. Second, forth are fine, as is reverese. I didn't try 5th but im guessing it won't work either. I also didn't try 4x4. Anywho, I guess its the shift linkage, but I dunno what the hell I'm doing at this point. A lil' help, PLEASE! Oh yeah: 88 SPFI EA82 3" lift

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2576 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19884 These threads really helped me. Thanks edrach.

I had a 85 sedan with the same problem; I changed my filter and pump first, Then decided the carb needed rebuilt. This fixed it. I tired to do it myself but the car caught on fire.... So I let the mechanic handle that one....

Oh my - I think that's my next house. Thanks for the links

225/70/14 - $45 At Walmart. :cool:

I started my lift on Sat, but didn't get too far because A)I hadta work at 6 B)I slept in till 1 But today I had a full day to work! So of course it rained on me. It wasn't until 11 or so (still raining) that I actually got to workin on it. Dustyrider was out there in the rain with me, too. The front end is done, but the diff blocks hadta be reamed a little so we haven't gotten past that point. Darkness caught us. I've hadta massage a few of the Al blocks with a grinder, but other wise it's pretty straightforward. I'm really amazed that I haven't broken anything yet. Some observations: -None of the threads in the body are straight. -A single groundwire can in fact support the whole engine. -Powerwashing with your skid plate on does jack ****. -Spilling coffee on your head and rolling around in subie droppings is the fastest way to get dreadlocks. So the worst thing is, with skool and work tommorrow, I can't bang on it till Tuesday! The front end looks pretty good, though.

It seems to me that the aluminum is just easier to work with.

Lift goes in tommorrow (Sat) provided it doesn't rain on me. I've got Sunday off, too. Ya know, in case it doesn't go as smooth as I'd like:drunk: I live right by the college in GJ, drop a line if you wanna come down.

Was $430 shipped, I think. There's a $25 core charge in there for a steering shaft. So $405 in the end. PK = Patrick Davis, the fella who makes the BYB kit here in the US.

Got my lift today; a 3" EA-82 kit. I haven't seen any pics of the new kit around, so I thought I'd post one. Oh yeah: Woohooo!

EA82 w/ Delta cams: $1250. 3% sales tax, no shipping if I drive over the pass. Now that I think about it, it may be cheaper to ship to Moab, rather than pay in-state tax. Anywho, guess what I'm spending my next student loan on?

I don't believe in "god", but for now I'll agree with you.

Oh right, the simple answer. Good point. Still, I read about guys here with hand throttles, and it dosen't make any sense. I use my handbrake all the time in tricky spots. Also, what manual tranny vehicles don't have a handbrake? I always thought was the point, ya know, to compensate for the inherent lack of a third foot. I'm not doubting you know what yer talkin about, but I'm gonna be going around looking at parking brakes in strangers trucks now.... Sorry to drift OT.

As a bicycle mechanic, my first thought is to run all 4 off the handbrake. That'd be sweet for wheelin'. I've always wondered why people used hand throttles instead of making the handbrake more functional. It'd be easy to do with Gyro [detangler] cables. Just a matter of finding good thick ones.

You make it sound like you have easy access to LSD... and I wanna get high (but don't have the traction). Edit: This was meant to be a serious question.

So I'm new and all, and I've used the "Search" function to the point that I've basically read every thread from the past two years. I'd like to say that the USMB is worth more than a Haynes, Chilton, HTKYSA, and a factory manual combined. I post a lot on mountain bike forums, which is my field of expertise. You knowledeable types here don't have it so bad. At least this palce is filtered by the fact that all the memebers are at least old enough to have a drivers liscense. On MTBR (bike site) you're telling some 12 year old kid where his arsehole is every ten minutes. Anyways, I was thinking about it. It's not like there are really that many new products available [compared to say, bikes] for old Soobs to talk about. So if it wasn't for all the repetitive questions, wouldn't this place be kinda quiet?

Dirty beer spillin' hippie...

I just dropped $50 bucks on a can of POR, as well as the metal prep that goes with it. The cleaner/degreaser they sell looks to be Simple Green with another label, so I'll just get that at the store. Anyway, I'm gonna clean up the rust aound my rear fenders/bumper, before it's an issue. Prolly do it this weekend, so I'll post about how it works.

Get a grease gun.

I didn't think Subaru made odometers with less than 100,000 on them.

Rear axles and front axles are not the same. The rears have two pinned cv's, and the stub axle stays in the bearing. floortom: Search the old gen forum for "rear axle removal" and you'll find a bunch of relevant threads. Most of which will say "use heat and a hammer". As for me, I couldn't get the drive axle off. But I didn't try very hard.

Your brat isn't lifted?

Get it? Haha. Time for bed.

I could take that to the golf course! If I played golf that is.

Yeah I'm waiting on the same kit for the same car.