Tin Soldier

I heard it start to clack and looked down at the guage and it said zero. I pulled it into a parking lot and the temp had risen to just above where it normally sits. Not overheated. Tblets are fine. The oil on the pass head has kinda been like that for a while, there is just more now, but still no leaking onto the ground.

I appreciate all this. I am better off to do a engine swap then? I am fairly handy with tools and motors, I am just concerned that I could spend a ton of time on a motor that might have other issues anyhow.

No problem they are off alread. What am I looking for? This would coz a complete loss in pressure?

OK now that I am logged in as the right user. What is involved in cam seals? Do I have to tear down the head? Last time I did that the car never ran again.

I think my oil pump went out yesterday. IS this possible for the oil pump to just quit? I am driving along and all the sudden guage goes from like 50-60 to 0 and almost right away I could hear that no oil was moving so I quick found a place to get parked and shut it down. There is oil all around the passenger side head, but it doesn't seem to be leaking enuff to make a puddle at least there wasn't one today when I came back to the car. My questions are.... Should I attempt to just replace the oil pump? How long does this take and what involved? Should I assume the engine is damaged from no oil and just replace? How long does this take and whats involved? If I decide to swap the oil pump will one from a turbo ea82 fit an NA ea82? Could I get this done today? I need the car at 9am tomorrow. Thanks

This is just an update. We had some nasty rain here and I was out driving around (of course). Now the one turn signal is full of water. If you try this make sure you seal it somehow or do what I did and just drill a small hole in the bottom to let the water back out.

I tried it out yesterday and a medium McDonalds drink does hit the stereo. Kept pausing it and what not. Guess I will have to flip the bracket over so the the cup holders are on top. Never thought of bending the shifter back after chopping it. It is a bit of a reach for 5th. Good thing I have long arms.

I got me new stereo and mounting equipment from the insurance company last nite. So I got it installed and I also installed the cup holders out of a Toyota from a junk yard. The cup holders didn't work out as well as I had hoped. Shifter hits in the top gears. I could put the cup holder on top and that would fix it. As always more pix can be seen at www.4x4roo.com

Does that book have the temp marks for an analog dash? I really want to know how hot my car is running.

NAPA listed a 180 and a 192. I went with the 180 because I was having overheating problems. The 180 has seemed to work fine since February. I still notice my electric fan kicking in once in a while. I still want to know the range on my temp guage. It doesnt have any temp marks anywhere.

I agree with you there, but I like the lower sitting in the wagon with the xt6 seats. Being 6'2" I found that with stock seats I was way high. With the adjustables I can sit em right down on the floor. My GL-10 Seats are acting as a couch in my living room and I didn't want to remove them from there. I bolted my xt seats right into my loyale no prob. Some lap belt issues but nothing major.

I am running the accord spring in the rear of mine and have not had any trouble since I bought the car in February. I have wheeled in it the mud and snow. No problems. I probably would not want much more stress then that on it tho. The axles have a changed angle but not that much. It's still within normal limits when the car is sitting flat.

bumper for new pix

Yeah see that's what I thought too, but I haven't bent it yet. I have been using it for two months with no problems. I figured it was cheap and if I bent it I could make another, but it's holding up just fine. I think the secret is the bracing between the two pieces. That's why if I did it again I would put more on it. I haven't tried backing into a tree or anything like that. I suppose in a crash it would not hold up that well, but for pulling out of mud or towing a trailer it works great.

So after I have had some time to test it out and make sure it would hold up... I am posting about my bumpers. This is the rear bumper (front is not finished yet). This bumper was made out of a 12 foot piece of 2" exhuast pipe that was purchased at a truck parts store. The pipe was cut into two 6foot sections. Brackets were cut from an old EA82 bumper I had from a parts car. The 2inch reciever was purchased at a Buyers Fair (misc parts store). The pictures are pretty self explanatory. There is a flaw in the design however. When the brackets were welded on they were not properly measures and the whole bumper was too close to the body of the car. Rather then cut the brackets off and put a spacers in, I just moved it out so the first hole of the bracket was in the last hole of the bumper mount on the car. So there is only one bolt per side holding this on right now, and the bumper moves up and down. I have figured out a work around for this problem by adding extenders to the brackets and welding a nut to it. If you make one add about 2 to 4 inchs of spacing to the bracket. I have tested this pretty extensivly. I have been towing my trailer with it for about 2 months now. The trailer is 500 pounds and I have had as much as 1200 pounds on it with no problem. I have been hauling wood, gravel, and sand in the trailer. I would recomend a couple more spacer/supports then I have on mine althought what I have seem to be fine. No bending or anything. I painted the whole thing with black chassis paint, but it came off when I pressure washed the car. Bed liner might work better. When I first heard of this idea I thought the guy was nuts, but he uses it on a Ford ranger that he offroads and even has hooks on his to yank stuff around with no problem. The front bumper is simalar in design except that I used a 4 inch exhaust pipe from a rig on top and a 2inch on the bottom. I spaced them using a brush guard from a Chevy Blazer. I have som finishing to do and more welding before I post the how to on it.

You could just use an aftermarket job for any car. IF done corectly they look good and stay put. This one came from Walmart and included matching chrome pedals and the shift boot.

I spent $25 on the bends. Had the straight pipe from bumpers, and the cherrybomb was $20. Seems to have lil more power. Hard to know if its real power or just me thinking its there.

Has anyone ever replaced all the bushing in the front of their EA82? I have some noise in the front and a lots of wheel slop even after bearings, ball joints, and tie rod ends. I can see that the rubber is all shot. I just don't know what's its called or where to buy them.

Well after my offroading stint my exhaust was rather broken. I went to Advanced Auto Parts and my friend who works there helped me pick out some 2inch parts, and my uncle helped me weld it up. I got 2 45degree pipes (item 5600812) and something for some truck (item 3384969) and a 2inch id id (item 548504). I already had a 6ft section of 2inch straight pipe. My cat is emptied out so I pulled it off and we cut the bad stuff off and put the S piece made out of the 2 45's on there and welded it up tight. Then we put the straight piece on the other end of the S and welded it up. The funny curved piece got the 2id to 2id pipe splice welded to it and the cherry bomb muffler. Then everything got put up under the car with one clamp to hold the straight pipe to the muffler piece (would have been hard to weld it with the angles). Welded up some custom hangers for the whole deal and tada 2 inch exhaust. Only bad thing is that my studs pulled out of my manifold and we put some bolts in, but they don't seem to wanna hold. Has anyone ever tapped and put in different studs? **UPDATE** I found some replacement studs for a toyato Corolla that worked great. They were just a tinsy bit bigger then the old ones. I put thread locker on them and tighten them up in and it's working great right now. **UPDATE MORE PIX**

Isurance company is mailing me replacements. I have a $100 co pay tho. This is my slow time so hopefully I can come up with it. ANyone need any parts I might have for sale?

I would not ness reccomend an LSD for street driving. While both wheel going can be cool, you can some wheel hop from it when cornering hard. It can't possibly good for it to take that kind of stress for long.

With using the brake light the blinker is normal rate. The brake light is like two lights in one bulb so the lower watt is the parking light and the higher watt is the turn signal and that makes the blinker normal and still leaves a factory parking light. My small bulbs in the side of the marker don't work for some reason, but it still passes inspection so I don't care.

I wanted to share how I relocated my turn signals after I installed a custom front bumper that didn't have a place for them. I moved them up in the parking light and used a brake light bulb and plug. I had to use the dremel to make the hole in the lense bigger, and trim some of the edges off the brake light plug. I also had to extend the wires from the turn signal leads to get them up there. The turn signals came up on the brighter lead of the bulb and the parking lights on the lower watt lead. It works out great. I didn't even feel the need to put an orange bulb in there. The lense distorts it enuff that it works fine. Here are pix.

Well, this is sunday and the PA meet drew to a close this morning when Xtacy Turbo went home. He was the only one who traveled a distance to be here. PK was here most of the time. It was fun just hanging out. No other ladies came. Just us three guys and Suby Widow. We did some offroading and got stuck and the took most of Saturday to free the car. X did some restoration work on his RX that he has up here. He is building a daily driver out of it. Overall a good time was had by all and we look forward to doing it again next year.

I don't know what happen to that guy. He was alive when we went by and not too badly hurt looking.