Tin Soldier

I don't think that it is a problem with regular snow driving. I never had a problem before anyhow. I just hit a lot of snow really hard really fast.

what kinda resistance should I see?

So a while back someone asked how tbelts with no covers worked on a lifted car in the snow..... If you nail a field of over a foot deep snow (maybe 2 feets it was up to bottom of b umpers) and 40 miles an hour...... The tbelts pop off one side! I got them back on but did it in the dark so it was off. So today I took em off and put them back on.

I read Milesfoxes ECU code page on his web site. This is EA82 SPFI. The light does this light on about 1 sec light off about half sec light on about 1 sec light off about half sec light on about 1 sec light off about half sec then 4 fast blinks real close together I thought it was code 34 which is EGR solenoid. I just replaced it for the 3rd time with no luck. I have replaced the EGR vavle once too (new). I cleared the codes and it didn't come on right away when I started the car. I drove about 5 miles with no problems. Then as I came down the long hill into town I didn't bother to downshift. It sputters once as the hill flattens out (engine is bogged cause I didn't downshift) and the light comes on. I downshift and continue. This light has been on since I bought the car in Feb of 2004. I have tried replacing bunches of stuff with no luck. In the summer the car runs fine. Now that's it's cold out, if I drive till the car is warmed up and then stop and try to restart it starts really hard. I have to pump the gas to make it start and then it smells like it is flooding. If I push the gas to the floor while driving it actually hesitates till I lift off the pedal a bit. Now to me this seems like some kind of TPS or something. I am hoping someone more knowledgable then me will know and it will be an easy fix. That's the only thing keeping this car from running perfect. *UPDATE* After I drove the car into work the light went out and has not come back on. I didn't realize when changing the part the car had to be drove. It makes sense that the EGR is a vacuum thing and would need some pressure to activate. So check engine light is finally out. Car still starts kinda hard in the cold but seems to drive ok. Thanks for responses.

I am totally with you on the wanting a diesel. I love the subes, but a diesel would be worth it. I have thought of making a fuel still and going that route.

How bout this one? Supposedly Chevy powered with on a Blazer frame. I know nothing else about it tho.

Will it work on an EA82? I have never seen an EA81

I broke my cherokee more offroading then any sube. I once ripped up a transfer case in a mud hole about 2 miles in the woods. A friend and I used the kids wagon to haul in a new transfer case and do the swap in the mud only to find out the splines didn't match. So we we cracked open both cases and swapped out guts right there in the woods and reinstalled and drove it home. Also, lost more paint on it due to it's big size. Ended up with serious engine trouble and it was too complex for me to figure out. Not to mention it got stuck in the snow too easy and I have only got a sube stuck once in snow (high centered it).

isn't the avalanche based on a truck frame? wouldn't that make it too big for a sube body. Hrmm stretch wagon! That would be kewl

No the kit has a box that has all the wires attached. you hook one wire to ground one to brake one for parking/headlights one to left turn signal then one long green wire to right turn signal that box will then have a regular flat four trailer connector for output

Well my love of subes is as big as anyones here and my bias for them is long reaching, but even I can be amazed. My dad rented the big Ford f350 that home depot has to bring home some drywall. It had those heavy load tires on it with no tread. Of course is got stuck stuck in the snow in the driveway (which is a decent slope anyhow). My tractor is broke, so I get the ol' 30 ft tow strap and hook it up to the truck, then hook it to my 4x4roo (yes it still has a rear bumper made of 2" exhaust pipe). My tires are crap and the LSD is not on and I still pulled the truck up the driveway and out onto the road, without bending my el cheapo bumper or getting stuck I love this car!

checking to see if we still have the two of those wheels laying around.

*EDIT* Just realized the last post has a link in it to what you need so this whole message is now lame. (I will leave it tho since I am lame. ) Just in case you didn't understand the 3 to 2 convertor I will elaborate. Goto Walmart or any auto parts store. They are ruffly $20. It's an adapter for cars that have a seperate turn signal from the brake light. I don't have a part number on hand, but I have used 3 of them now. If you went to an auto parts store and told them what you need they would know. The adapter should come with a small LED test light so that you can figure out which wire is which. All of mine did anyhow. Just hook it up like they said right at your tail lights. The kit will tell which wires to hook to what. Probably takes about a half hour to wire it all up.

I attempted the same thing with my EA82 and ended up with a broken guage cluster. Had a hard time getting the needles off and then they broke. I am going to try again and I will make the file available for download when I am done. I had the same thing on my jeep cherokee, but I did them in white face style the light behind them made them glow a cool green color.

As of right now I own 3. 2 running wagons and one mostly stripped parts wagon.

Right O you are. It's dumping snow here, which could be fun to wheel in. My tires suck. I am trying to round up some better ones if anyone would ship You can usually reach me via one of instant messengers.

Really bad A/C Compressor seizing once in a while. And if that doesn't work look for the neighbors cat in the intake.

I am hoping to do carlisle this year. Its hard with 3 small kids tho.

I am looking for some ppl who might want to go wheeling. I have gone a few times by myself and with a friend driving my spare wagon, but I would like to do some offroading with some other offroaders.

Those "sticker wagons" would never pass inspection around here. Can't see out the back windows enuff. I once took a dodge shadow in for inspection and it came back with no rear tint or stickers. They never even bothered to ask me or warn me just ripped it all out.

I have accord springs in my wagon, but do not experience nearly what you are talking about. I live on a dirt road and the ride is slightly stiffer then stock but not bad or unbearable. Unfortunatly I did not install them, Trogdor did, so I don't know what they came off of. I also have RX springs in the front. THe car I think handles a little better because it doesn't feel like it leans on turns as much. I use it offroading and as a daily driver and do see a problem with the setup. Maybe I just got lucky and got some worn out springs BTW I have brand new shocks. WHen I first bought the car from Trogdor the pass rear strut was shot and would bang around when you hit a bump. I put new struts on and no more problem. Maybe you just have worn out struts?

I don't think they get grounded. Trogdor would know he has one on his RX. I think I got a 1.5 for my 1000 watt amp if that helps.

I would suggest Tbelts but you don't have em.

Here is my loud mouth again. Don't use bed liner or rubber undercoating, these trap moisture in and will cause it to rust faster. Instead the motor oil in a squirt bottle is a good idea, or just find someone who does oil under coating (about $40 for the whole car around here). The oil undercoating is usually mixed with a touch of tar to make it stick better and it forces misture out instead of keeping it in. You will get years and years out of a car that is properly undercoated. Again just my input from 26 years of living in rural (salted) PA.

Stereo amplifies are heck on our little alternators. I recomend a capacitor. You can get on ebay for about $40. They relieve stress on the charging system. Have the next alternator tested someplace after you put it on to make sure you don't still have a short somewhere. I always run with my lights on (80 percent less chance of head on collision, plus it's just plain easier to see a car with the headlights on), my stereo is huge (1000 watt amp and 200 watt head unit running four speakers and two 12inch subs), my heater is usually on 3 or 4 and would run my rear defroster if it worked. Oh yeah and my gps and laptop power invertor. I have noticed that at idle my volt guage drops and sometime the dash lights even come on telling me I am pulling from battery. I definitly recomend a cap. I have one but haven't installed it yet and can tell that my alt is paying the price. Just my 2 cents