GLCraig

A member of the old message board has put SPFI onto his EA81. If I remember right his board name was Rugiver (SP?). I went looking for some of the pictures he took of it but I didn't find any. Doing the change dose require retrofitting an SPFI distributor to work with an EA81 engine. It's not any easy thing to do but it can be done.

Lifter noise is very common with that engine. Probably the most common cause; is that the o-ring and seal for the oil pump have worn out. What happens when they wear out, the pump will suck air into the oil, the air will circulate through the oil and when it reaches the lifters it compresses and causes the lifters to collapse and cause noise. Typically there isn't any damaged cause by this.

No, if it has push button 4wd then it's just hi range only. If it's an automatic then it's hi range only Oh for some handy info, the Hi/Lo portion is in the front of the transmission. It's a reduction gear set on the input shaft.

Okay If I read the post right, you're say that when you push the lever down (and it dose go all the way down?) it stays in 4wd but you can still shift between Hi and Low. Now the first thing I would do is make sure there is nothing preventing the linkage for going through its full range of motion. The 4wd shift linkage on a d/r 5 speed is located above the tail housing and to the passenger side. The linkage that goes to the front of the transmission is only for the Low range portion. If you are not sure about the linkage disconnect it and push the shift arm in and out. All the way out is 2wd, middle position is 4wd/hi and all the way in is 4wd/low. You should feel some resistance going between the positions. When you think you have it 2wd, go take a test spin and see. If it's still in 4wd then the transfer case is probably Tango Uniform. The way that Subaru Designed the transfer case, there is a drive gear connected to the front output shaft. Then there is a Output gear, that's meshed to the drive gear and connected to the tail shaft with a syncro. At this point there are three things I can think of that would prevent the syncro from disengaging and putting the transmission back into 2wd. 1. The pin that hold the shift fork in position on the shift arm, somehow came out while you were in 4wd. 2. The shift fork is either bent of broken. 3. The shift fork is worn out enough that it doesn’t move the syncro ring far enough to disengage the syncro. If you decide to open things up and take a look, the good new is that you do not have to split the transmission. Every thing in the transfer case is accessible by taking off the inspection plate that's on to of the transmission.

Yep it's snowing again WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE. Here's a pic of my GL http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/snow.jpg

Remove the sparkplug from the #1 cylinder(passenger side front), stick your finger in the hole and crank the engine over by hand. when you begin to feel pressure pushing the finger out, begin looking for the timing marks on the flywheel. Keep cranking by hand until the 0deg mark is lined up with the pointer.

Where were you playing at?

If it's an EA82T then the timing marks are on the flywheel. If it's an EA81T then there is a notch on the crank pully that get aligned to a plate with degree marks.

All of your answers can be found here. http://www.subaru-global.com/about/history/index.html

Make sure your rear diff has the correct ratio, A budy of mine put a 3.9 rear diff in to his turbo wagon and has similar symptons.

Your brat should have a non-cat sticker under the hood, since Subaru's didn't get cats untill 81

woo hoo:headbang:

Well, I'm taking my GL in for an emission test tomarrow. I'm not too worried, It passed the last 3 tests on the frist try. Also I'm taking it in a couple of months early just in case, that way I'll have plenty of time to fix any problems if I dose fail. Anyway wish me luck.

ROTFLMHO

A good impact wrench will get them off. If you have access to a good bench vice, you might be able to clamp the CVJ in the vice and then use a breaker bar to loosen the nut.

The XT6 PP is different then the EA82 PP

Hey GD, the EA82T presure plate is the same as the EA82 4wd presure plate.

That's the one for the gage, I think he's looking for the one for the ECu

A drive line for a hatch is shorter then the other EA81 models. So you will need to find one from another hatch or have the one you have cut, fitted and balanced for your hatch.

call your local dealer and get a part number. Then try to order it from 1stsubaruparts using the part number.

The subie shop I use to work at would charge about that much to do both sides and a T-belt, water pump oilpump seals and cam seals, plus they only use OEM parts. Now that was about 7 years ago, I know their labor rate has gone up by about $15 - $20 an hour and we know that the cost of parts has gone up too.

If it's the beige hatch you're talking about, I believe he is using some wheels that were imported from Australia and the hatch has a 4inch lift. Here's a picture of the one I'm talking about.

No, No, No Cranking the engine over Clockwise and holding the bolt stationary has the same affect as holding the engine stationary and turning the bolt counter clockwise. The bolt should come loose. Also your not using the torque the engine puts out for this. You are using the torque of the starter, which is more, then the 79ft-lbs. Also remember to unplug the coil wire. You don't want the engine to start because you're likely to end up having the breaker bar tear-up the radiator.

Someone on this board has done the ea82 conversation. As for other Sub engines, the EJ22 would be a good way to go. Here's a link to a company that builds adaper plates to mount various engines to VW transaxles http://www.kennedyeng.com/vw_por.htm

Your Haynes manual is showing you a distributor for a carb or early MPFI engine. With yours the ECU takes readings from the optical sensor and determines when to fire. One thing you should do is crank the engine over and see if the distributor turns. If it doesn’t you have a broken timing belt.