Snowman

Sheesh, some people:drunk: .

What is the rated load capacity for the Brat in the bed and for towing? Did the gen 1's have T-tops, or did that come with the gen 2?

Dang, that's not bad price-wise. Is it kevlar disc or ceramic?

Never heard of that. Hmmm....

http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 Follow that link. You will find the FSM (well, the engine section plus some electrical) for an 89 Subaru, which is virtually identical to your loyale. Download, print, and you're good to go.

Find out who actually makes them. Most of these online radiator shops are just distributors for the same manufacturer(s). I've ordered rads from two different places, and they were made by the same company and even came in identical boxes.

Actually, don't need a meter or anything to test the links. Just give them a good yank, and if they stretch or anything, they're bad.

How old is the oxygen sensor? My mom's 97 OBW was starting to lose MPG b/c of an old sensor.

That's funny, I got one from them a few months ago, and it only cost me $125 including shipping (normally, they sell them for $125 plus shipping, but they cut me a deal).

It has been done. Motor mounts should bolt right up. You'd probably need to get a 5-speed swap kit from Bratsrus, with the modified shifters and tranny crossmember. The electrical stuff should be a cakewalk if it's a carbed EA82, and not too difficult if it's SPFI. The starter from the EA82 should be used. I've been told that the EA82 disty is pretty close to the brake master cylinder, and there isn't much clearance between the rocker covers and frame rails.

Loose exhaust heat shield?

Double check the fusible links.

Actually, both the brat and the loyale should have open diffs in the axles and no diff or anything in the center. The loyale should bind up when turning on pavement in 4wd because of the difference in speed between the front and rear axles. If it's not, then something might be messed up with the 4wd system. Can you actually verify that the rear wheels are being driven when it's in 4wd? If everything is working right, the Loyale should be able to keep up with the brat in the snow. Well, the brat does have a low range, so maybe not quite, but it should be close.

If you really don't want to take actual money in the interist of being a good samaritan, and she wants to give you something for fixing her car, let the lady buy you dinner (or subaru parts! ). I work on cars all the time and barter for stuff rather than get cash.

The old EA performance article by Subiemech went into some depth as to why these coils are better than stock. Apparently these new high voltage coils misfire a lot less than the factory ones. That, plus being able to run a wider gap, helps to at least make it smoother and improve drivability. Like carfreak, I've had good luck with the MSD Blaster coil, specifically the high vibaration model. The accel coil is filled with oil for cooling and stuff, while the MSD hi-vibe is completely filled with epoxy in order to accomplish the same job. When the accel lays flat, the oil doesn't cover everything, and they tend to burn out.

Do a search for "turbo justy". Somebody put a turbo from an EA82T onto a FI justy engine a while back, and it apparently worked out quite well. More power than than the chassis could handle. For rally use, three things will do more than any other mods. 1. Practice and improve your driving skills. This one's most important. 2. Get some GOOD tires for it. Traction is soooo important. 3. Lighten it up. Strip EVERYthing that is not absolutely necessary for making it go or keeping you in it.

I've always found that my car gets the best fuel economy between 60 and 65, but your results may vary. Shifting around 3000 is probably okay, but the car really doesn't care if you rev even to 4500 before shifting. I usually shift around 3500, and it seems to give the best results as far as performance and economy.

It's probably something to do with the Idle Air Controller, which is part of the throttle body assembly on your car. As a start, try jiggling the wires and connections that go to the throttle body assembly. There is also a small adjustment screw on the side of the IAC that sets the base idle setting. I've also heard about people cleaning the IAC, but I'm not really sure how. I guess they tend to get gummed up, not allowing the proper amount of air through.

Hey, it wouldn't be any fun to keep secrets if there weren't guys like me trying to figure them out! I hope it'll be at the show this summer, whatever it is.

Tire pressure is 32 in front, 28 in back unloaded. Raise the back to 32 when loaded. I've run mine around 32-35 for years and they seem to wear pretty evenly, aside from the outer edge wear on the front tires that comes from the stupid positive camber built into these cars.

Have you ever driven in deep snow?

Well, I have heard that SVX's eat rear wheel bearings, so maybe if the bearings were really worn out.... .

That is a really nice brat!

What kind of strange creation are you working on now?!

Actually, I've found that the EA82 is happiest around 3000 rpms. Peak torque is 2800, and you should generally cruise at just above that point. Below that, they tend to lug, reducing fuel economy substantially. Run a couple bottles of Chevron Fuel System Cleaner through it and see if your MPG doesn't improve (that stuff works wonders).