[HTi]Johnson

Goal: Put EJ engine and tranny in RX. Can anyone predict what I would need to modify that's different from just the engine swap? Like driveline and axles?

Hello, I just got my buddy's dual caburetor hatch. He was at 4400ft elevation and I live at 430ft...how do I adjust the carbs for that?

Hey, where in Oregon do you live? I live in Coburg. I'm having a sale on lifts right now...check it out. Here's my webpage. Head Trauma, inc. Or you can check www.sjrlift.com. He has cool aluminum ones.

Clogged fuel filters from stuff coming loose due to the seafoam knocking crap loose in the tank???

The Y one, right in the middle.

What kind of parts are you looking for. A lot of parts are interchangable between non turbo and turbo. It's weird that Napa wouldn't have your parts, they are my first choice.

Not hard to do when ya make a bumper out of 2 pieces of 2 inch square tube

The front cat is different because the exhaust Y's into it. It would be a little harder to replace...but doable. A Bosch O2 sensor is like $15 at Napa. That's what I use. You could try to hook the wires back up and see what happens. The new O2 sensor may require slight change in wiring, not too hard. As for the thermostat, it's straight forward. Drain coolant, take housing off, remove old gasket and thermostat, dry mating surfaces, put thermostat in, new gasket, and put the housing back on and torque to specified torque or by "tight enough feel".

Spark plugs are a standard thread and pitch for spark plugs. Yeah, a megnetic chaser isn't going to help with Aluminum, it's not magnetic.

Yes, you can remove or hollow it out, as long as you don't have to pass emissions. As for the thermostat, that was just a tune up suggestion. You don't know what one is in there and it should be a 190 degree I believe. That's what these engines were designed to run at. If it is a colder one it could reduce gas mileage, slightly though.

First things, plugs, wire, cap and rotor. Bring the cap and rotor into the store to compare to the ones they give you, they like to give the wrong ones. Fuel filters, I think if it is carb'd, there's two. One in the engine bay and one in front of the rear tire, under the car, above a shield, next to the fuel pump. For the brakes, I bleed LF, RR, RF, LR. Make sure the fluid that's coming out is good looking and that you're keeping the brake resevoir topped off. Goto a local Subaru dealer and get a thermostat. The dealer is the only one that carries the right Thermostat, all aftermarket ones seem to suck and not be as flowing. If your mileage doesn't improve after that, I'd check your catalytic convertor to see if it is clogged, that could be the reason your car is getting crap mileage, and if the leak is in front of the convertor, it could also be from too much back pressure because of the convertor. Do you have slow acceleration? I'd do timing belts too. Here's a write up on how to do, thanks to Board member, Milesfox. Welcome to the board and don't feel afraid to ask questions, after you search.

They have spark plug chasers. It's just like a tap, but designed to fit in a spark plug wrench. Like this You should be able to get it from any auto parts store.

Yeah, every ea81 trim piece, I've seen has clips that are screwed into the body.

Good point. But it's something that shouldn't be done all the time.

Yeah, and only use the 4wd OFF ROAD. You use it on pavement or really compact gravel...you will break something eventually. It needs to be able to slip the wheels if it has to. If it binds, it puts a lot of stress on the drivetrain, if something breaks, hopefully it'll be the axle, because they are probably the cheapest component in the drivetrain. Now, off road, where you expect your tires to slip...4wd all the way! Or, say you have a really steep, straight, road that's on a hill that you need to go up from a stop, 4wd Lo-Range won't hurt as long as you try not to turn too much.

Do you have a hatchback? If you have a hatchback, that's just the old way of engagin 4wd. If you have a wagon or known as a EA82, you have dual range. Hi and Lo 4wd. The push buttons are just single range 4wd.

Here's how I'd do it. Drain the oil out of the tranny. It takes a 19mm or 22mm wrench. If it's 22mm a 7/8 socket works too. Remove the driveshaft from the rear diff. 4 bolts, 2 12mm wrenches. Remove the front axles, they are held in with roll pins. Unbolt the shifters from the tranny, should be able to do from underneath. 12mm wrench and socket should work. Unbolt the 4 bolts on the bell housing and the starter. 14mm socket and probably an extension. Two bolts on top, two on bottom. Make sure the clutch cable is removed and hill holder. Put a jack underneath the tranny and put it up to the tranny and put some pressure on it. Then undo the tranny crossmember (two bolts, 17mm socket) and lower it, hopefully with someone's help. There might be a ground wire on the tranny, make sure to remove it. Take caution in lowering the transmission so it doesn't drop and make sure everything is disconnected once it's started lowering. Good luck. Have on hand.

PLunger? It it big enough for a toilet plunger? Or you could use a windshield suction cup. Unless it's more like a crease than a dent. EDIT: Oh snap, the pictures weren't posted when I looked. A body shop might be able to pull it for less than $100.

Yes, have the flywheel surfaced. As for a clutch, I think people recommend getting an XT-6 clutch setup...because it's bigger and can handle more abuse. Maybe someone can clarify?

Hello all. I know this definately belongs on the off topic forum. I respect chevy small blocks, I don't know much about them. But, they have such a huge support base with aftermarket parts and such. I just have a few questions. As the only engines I've ever rebuilt have been Subaru, I think rebuilding a small block will be kind of the same but mostly different. Here's the story: My fire chief has a 1957 Chevy Bel-Air with original everything. It has the 283 in it. He wants to get it rebuilt, he wants to keep the original engine. I know of where to get the kits for it. I was reading and most people say "just drop a 350 in it", but that would take the original engine out of the car. He wants to keep it original, but he doesn't plan on selling it, ever, so swapping engines is a possibility. He's not too big on high performance, high horsepower, just wants it to last for the rest of his life. So, should I rebuild the engine or have him buy a 350 crate engine? If I do rebuild it, what intake manifold and carburetor should I install on it, if the 283 stays. Also, I've already suggested on dropping an STi engine in it;).

From now until Mayday (May 1st) [HTi] is offering any and all products for at least %25 off. Now's the time to buy your offroad setup. EA-81 or EA-82 4" lifts $300 (were $400) This kit will come with everything to get your Subaru 4 inches higher in the air. (There is a $50 deposit for the shifter parts and steering parts, total cost before shipping will be $350) 4" lift only. EA Bumpers: Tube-$130 (were $175) ; Box - $185 (were $250) Check the link out, the prices on the page don't reflect the Mayday Price. EA Roof Racks: $130 (were $175): Check the link out, the prices on the page don't reflect the Mayday Price. PM or Email me with orders or questions! Orders must be placed by May 1st. All prices before shipping costs. Prices on webpage do not reflect Mayday Sale Price.

I was going to say that. But make sure it's a low pressure filter. Or is there a difference between say FI filters and Carb filters?

Yea!? And, it looks like you need strut bars?

Can you get a pic of what you have? The brat's should look like this WIX number: 33021 This is the fuel seperator.

Maybe because it's clean and not dented . Nice looking brat though.