[HTi]Johnson

HAH HAH howcome all the interest now? . I'm tooling around with making my own connections for the harness. It will plug in to the harness where the (secret).

1: Do a compression test on all cylinders. Does it get hot on the gauge? Check the thermostat. 2: Kinda sounds like a timing issue. Follow step 3. 3: Have you checked the timing with a timing light? There are two connectors that need to be connected prior to timing it on the #1 cylinder. Have you checked all plugs and wires? Make sure the cap and rotor look good. Take the timing covers off and put the driver's side cam straight up and the passenger's straight down. Like this: (driver's) (Passenger's). Then you should see these three marks, with the arrow on the center one. If one pulley isn't in the right spot (Like the picture shows), but the other is, your valve timing is off and follow this to fix it: Good Luck, I hope my rambling helped, Justin.

I second Northwet, that thing they call a "search" function is crap. I've been on the Board for almost 2 years, and still aven't figured out the search enought to use it efficiently. So the answer is yes. You can convert.

http://www.ch601.org/engines/files/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf http://www.ch601.org/engines/files/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf

I've used Accel Super stock (8140 or something) coils for 4 years now, with no problems. Some people will say that it will fry some stuff. But with 4 years of nothing but good, I'd say it's safe and the "frying" was probably an error on someone's part.

Freakin' sweet. I know showing off the FMIC looks awesome, but I think you should put some shielding in front of it! Like some expanded aluminum, even if it had 1/2" holes through it, it would protect it from the debris that would do damage. Justin Johnson P.S.: I'm jealous.

Other than buying some generic seal material and making it work...the next best bet (I know of) is to goto a wrecking yard and find one better than your's.:-\ -Johnson P.S. Welcome to the board

I don't believe that it should've been deleted as you suggested. Merely moved(EDIT: I thought he posted in the new gen), as the mods did. As for the problem...I'd start with a compression tester. This will tell you a lot about the engine and will help you diagnose the problem, as you probably know. Good compression? Check spark good spark, check for air. Simple engines require simple diagnostics.

Pulling the engine is not as hard as it may look.

Woh the headgaskets are different? So if I used a turbo gasket on a NA engine, they'd last longer?

+ I'm not sure about over there in Pennsylvania, but meth is illegal here.

Hello all. I helped reseal this engine. The leak is coming from the driver's side valve cover. It's tight and the seal is there. It didn't leak for a while....then it just started gushing out. The thing is when you now add water it comes out of that valve cover. So, it's probably cracked, but do you think it's the head or the block. Is there an easy way to check? Thanks everyone.

HAH Nice.

Well, one way to test would be to get on loose gravel...and then (in 2wd) take off fast from a stop and try to get the front wheels to break loose and "peel out". Then push the 4wd and do the same...you shouldn't spin the front tires as much, if any. Where in oregon are you? I'm in Eugene.

The transmission works when the car is cold? But not when it is warmed up? You can check www.craigslist.org and look for Justy in the cars and trucks and in auto parts, some people might have them for sale, cheap, and you can take the tranny out. Is it an automatic, it kinda sounds like a vacuum leak.

I SEE COUPE TAIL lights! OMG!! That is a lot of stuff. Wrong part of the world though. DAMNIT

Horizontally opposed engine, symetrical drive train, ease of use, and the fact you can engage 4wd while moving (supposed to be in a straight line).

Man, you must be one of those paranoid compulsive people. Figuring all the times your car has done what. Oh yeah...

It will swap right in, but the locking center diff will need to be wired in and the vacuum line to it. Ask on the board...someone will show/tell you how. EDIT! About the Ej conversion. You will need a tranny adapter and a flywheel drilled out and other stuff. I didn't see that part of the question. -MATT DAMON-

Garner (I think it was him) made some adjustable cam pulleys...I'm not sure what ever happened to that venture, probably lack of funds and people to give funds.

Balanced....NAH!! Everyone loves shrapnel. Just kidding, but wouldn't both ways require balancing?

Yeah the lancers are like the WRX, they've been around for a while, but not in the states.

What color of spark? Seriously...a nice blue spark is a hot spark, yellow isn't. My friend had this problem and it turned out to be a corroded coil wire.

A lot to learn young grasshoppa. Where the tranny and engine meet...that's called a bell housing. On top of the bell housing there is a hole (it's on the engine half of the housing), the hole may have a rubber plug in it, it's pretty big, can't miss it. See those three marks, those are the marks Miles is referring too. If you rotate it more, you'll see the ignition timing marks. (I hijacked that photo from Miles' timing belt instructions, thanks Miles.) You can use a 1/2 inch drive wrench with a 22mm socket on it to rotate the crank by the crank pulley bolt. If you don't have a 22mm socket, a 7/8 will work. Try not to rotate it counter clockwise, there's a slim chance that the timing belts may skip a couple teeth, causing all hell to break loose ) I'm on AIM often... EDIT: Oh yeah, that big thing that has all the timing marks on it, is the flywheel. You may have a pressure plate, it depends on if you have an Automatic or a manual.

hey. Do you have AOL instant messenger? My Screen name is crowbartherapy. Coburg is 6 miles North of eugene...like hundreds from you.. As for the hood release, if you can, get your hand in the grill, in the center, you'll see where the latch comes down. If you can get your finger behind there, you'll feel a lever, pull it to the right it should pop up.