hooziewhatsit

is this what you're talking about CHIM? http://www.geet.com/ basically, they 'claim' to produce a plasma by running the fuel/water through a pipe through the exhaust in opposing directions. I did some research on this and found basically the creator of it was a big scam artist :-\ Although, I have a friend who helped another friend convert a generator to run on this system. They got it working, and it sounds like it didn't use much gas, but..... I don't think they documented how much gas it used normally... so.. who knows if it really works.

lol, mine thumps pretty good when going over bumps, etc... and I thought it only started after my 180lb+ brother decided to see if it would hold him up... :-\

exactly! Lay low for a while, then let the cat out of the bag :-P good job on all accounts though

All I can think of is ebrake engaged, rear end on jackstands (praying they hold), and some front axle stubs spinning crazy fast Awesome opening shot if you ask me

if all of a sudden you can hardly make it up hills, and there is a loud whistling coming from 'somewhere on the front of the engine' your cat is now blocked. Ask me how I know Typically, all of our soobs had 2 cats, one at the Y pipe, and the other half way back. Beyond that is the muffler.

almost sounds like a bad coolant temp sensor - might not be bad enough to trigger the CEL though just thinking outloud...

correct, unplug the horn, then run the jumper wires to the two wires. I just tested a horn I had lying around, and the polarity did not matter.

that sounds like the switch in the steering wheel most likely. If you can take the grill off and hook 12v straight to the horn, it will let you know what the case is (you may want to cover your ears though)

I believe it's called the thermoswitch

dangit... knew I should've grabbed more than one while I was at the junkyard back home... the junkyard down here is out of them. Another option though... I know the junkyard down here has purge control solenoids. They're the same thing, but with a different connector on it. If you really need one I'm sure we could work something out on the other hand, I could sell you the one out of my car, since the CEL still throws the code for bad solenoid, even though it isn't (yes, I've cleared the codes, etc, it still comes on... grr)

All old-gen subarus (pre '90 or loyale) use the same bolt patten, 4x140mm. So any year/model is interchangeable. Newer models use different patterns (I think) If you're looking for larger rims, only Peugot have the same bolt pattern. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html other than peugot rims, you'd need to do 5 or 6 lug conversions, for which a search will turn up more than you probably want to know :-)

ohh yeeaaaaa.... thanks for the reply! now that you stated it, I do remember there are different axles in the rear. thanks

if you have 12v to the horns, I think it's safe to say the horn itself died and needs to be replaced. However, I've never dealt with the horn system, so I'm sure someone who has will chirp in with more info.

lpg, are you talking about the 'GEET' method? trying to make a plasma out of gas/water by running it through the exhaust? I did a little research on that a while ago, and found that the main guy pushing it was a scammer (alledgedly) :-\ I too would be interested to know what you find out...

alright... maybe a silly question, but don't you need to install an axle stub (basically, from the CV joint to the castle nut) to hold the hub/tire on if you remove the entire axle? wouldn't this require jacking the car up to take stress off the axle? one more question :-) How do you remove the rear axle so fast? I heard from a local suby mechanic that the differential had to drop to remove them?

Sounds like a bad switch. I think it may be worth checking on prices at a junkyard. $5-10 might be worth it rather than try to debug problems with the current switch, nevermind the time taken to take apart/reassemble, etc. good luck

Here's the first site I found on google. http://www.spiritofmaat.com/archive/feb2/carplans.htm They have plans on that page to create hydrogen by running a PWM into the electrolosis chamber, then running the gas off to be burned in the engine. I don't buy it yet. In other places on that page they talk about doing certain things to water to 'give it a conscious'

I remember having a short discussion in one of my computer classes a while ago that it would take more fossil fuels to create the hydrogen then would be used by just burning fossil fuels in cars. So.... the conclusion was hydrogen sounded good, but was actually worse for the environment. I haven't had time to research this anymore and figure out if it's true or not. Quite a while ago, a friend and I helped my brother electrolysize(sp?) water to create hydrogen. It takes a lot of voltage, but almost no current. It seemed like it took a lot of energy to create even a little hydrogen that was captured in a balloon, and then 'release' :-).

awesome, thanks for the info. Guess I'll have to save it for the next trip over here. I live in Klamath falls, and the car is at my in-laws in grants pass. thanks a bunch \me runs off to research engine/tranny pulling

anyone? we can't have three similar questions without any replies, now can we? :-p I checked everything that I could that I found in my haynes manual, including: vent line tranny cooler lines filler tube speedo connector fluid pan only one I can't find is the 'rear cover'. It says to look in chapt. 7, but I can't find anything there about it (figures). So, any other ideas? thanks

I believe it was on the top, and probably hard to get to with it in the car. I can take a picture when I get home if you don't find it by then.

hmm, I want to say yes, there is. I have one outside a car back at home. IIRC, there was some sort of tube going from the tranny to nowhere. I can look when I get back tomorrow evening/monday morning

Hey all, recently I bought an 85 auto GL turbo wagon with 'bad timing belts.' Well, after getting a new fuel pump, it runs Only problem now, is it leaks ATF while running from what looks like in front of the front differential. It pours down from right above the crossmember under the axles. While running it's a steady drip, and gradually dies off after stopping the car. I found a couple other threads with similar problems, but no replies :-/ like this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20578&highlight=leak+auto so, what kind of problem does this sound like? seal? easy fix, hard fix? This is the first time I've worked on an auto car, so I don't know much about them. I have another 4WD 3sp auto at home I could probably throw in, or I could go with a 5spd MT swap if needed. thanks, -Dave edit: oh yea, it was last registered in '99, so it's been sitting for at least 6 years now. It was about a quart low on ATF when I got it, and would not move under it's own power. After adding the ATF, it moves, but leaks...

Hey all, got an update from my grandparents today. They've gone to the factory with their problem and got the following response. Basically, what they are experiencing is a 'normal operating characteristic of the car.' The cruise control was only designed to work on FLAT, straight, level roads, not uphill or downhill. They also said they have duplicated this on other models, and since no one else has complained, it is not a problem in their eyes. If anyone else is having this problem, my grandparents advise going straight to the factory website to get all the problems reported in one place. Hopefully this way something will get done about it. If you want to email them about it, the address they used was SOAMail@sun.subaru1.com thanks

on my 88 GL wagon, 5spd, I get 30 pretty consistent on the highway, and 25ish in town.