hooziewhatsit

... without breaking anything (else) I had this experience a couple days ago. Pulled the cable under the dash to unlatch the hood, and it pulled out :hangbang: After reading some posts where grills got destroyed on the path to opening the hood, I figured there should be a better way. So, off to the junkyard I went to figure out how they work. What I came up with took me about 30 seconds to do, and leaves the grill intack. The first picture below shows the latching mechanism from the back. We want to push the latch that's circled to the right (yep, follow the arrow). To make this easier, we'll undo the spring that pulls it left. The second picture shows it from the outside. Procedure: 1. I used a small flat head screw driver to pop the spring out. The spring promptly disappears back into the mechanism, which is fine; it's out of our way now. 2. Use the same screw driver to push through the hole the spring just went in to. I was able to do this with some fingers through the grill, and the other up from the bottom holding the screwdriver up. As you can see from the first picture, the screwdriver needs to go in straight and level. Some down pressure on the hood from a helper might also take some pressure off the latch to make it easier to release. When you hit it correctly, it should clang like it usually does and release the hood. Alternative method: If your mechanism does not have a plastic backing on it. (Maybe they all do, my loyale didn't though). You may be able to reach up from the bottom with a long box-end wrench and grab the hook. You need to use the box end so that you have the right angle to catch it. Hopefully this helps keep someone from needlessly destroying a grill if this happens to them. Or this could just be a reminder to go check all of your cables for fraying :beer: keywords: hood latch stuck broken cable

Is the check engine light on/what codes does it throw? Did you verify that you got the wires hooked back up correctly on the distributer? Are the wires secure on the plugs? 1, 3, 2, 4 is the order, front 2 1 4 3 back I'd check those before you start throwing disty's and such at it. Suppose you could also take the cap off for a while and let it dry out in there.

Here ya go: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27784&highlight=coolant+temp+sensor

plus, if it's completely stripped, it won't (shouldn't) be heavy enough. when I had a dodge caravan pulled onto a flatbed (it didn't have wheels) it barely gouged the gravel, let alone pavement or cement

I've only found two grounds in the engine bay. One goes between the tranny and the 'overhang' right under the spare tire. The other screws into the body just forward of the battery, and goes to the block just to the left of the battery (looking from the front of the car). I just cleaned these on my wife's loyal, and was amazed how dirty they were. Another thing to check if you have an ohm meter, is the resistance to the radiator. Today I'm going to run some dedicated grounds to it on both our cars. One car had 500ohms of resistance to the rad

If your CEL has been on, you can find the codes by following the directions here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 Why do you think you have air trapped in the heater core? I recently had to do a complete flush and refill on my coolant. I put it on ramps on a slopped part of the driveway and let it warm up, adding coolant as necessary. I didn't have a problem after that. It may help to squeeze rad/heater core hoses to help the bubbles along. Report back with the CEL codes and we can help more.

Welcome, for your carb, it may very well need a rebuild, but a cheap something to try would be some Seafoam. Do some searches and you'll find out about it made many peoples' idles much better.

it's dang near impossible to get the screws with a normal screwdriver. I found a set of vice-grips will break them loose, after that they're finger tight (or loose).

is it always exactly 5 seconds after WOT, then in 5 second increments after that? If it is, it does almost sound like an ECU thing trying to limit what you're doing. If it's erratic and has random time increments, then it sounds like a sensor or wiring, or something else happening, to my feeble mind at least... Does it do it in any gear at any speed?

Does it throw any ECU codes? Is the check engine light on? you can find out how to read them here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 Have you made sure all the spark plug wires are secure? When was the last tune up? (plugs, cap, rotor, wires, etc)

You just need the plastic T piece that's near the wiper motor right? I can see if the junkyard has one the next time I'm there. For your wipers, before you tear stuff apart, add another ground to the wiper motor assembly. That's all it took on mine to fix them.

I believe I have one lying around I could let go for cheap if you can't clean yours or find one at a junkyard. -Dave

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27601&highlight=fuel+gremlin sounds really annoying, hope it gets figured out

are the appropriate wires still plugged into the alternator? Does the alternator charge light on the dash come on while you're cranking or is the key is turned to on? Does it throw any codes?

I may have an extra EGR lying around, or can find one at the JY, let me know if you have the need for one. -Dave

I just saw the same ad for Mobile oil. The oil probably just has more of the 'stuff' that traps contaminates, so it can theoretically go longer before changes. However, more 'stuff' means less actual oil...

#2 might be something easy like a sticky throttle cable/foot pedal? how long has it been since the standard tune up stuff? (plugs, cap, rotor, etc)

I think you may need to unbolt the flexplate from the torque converter. I'm not sure how many bolts there are, so you'll have to turn the engine over to get access to them. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong. That's what I had to do to get the tranny off a '90 caravan with a seized engine (not fun) now if someone can tell me why the torque converter slid right after it was unbolted... I'd like to know

Something that's real easy to check... Find a short jumper cable and run another ground to the wiper motor cable. IIRC, it's a small black/yellow wire. This has fixed my herky-jerky wipers on int, and a couple other people that I know of.

wow, glad she wasn't hurt

On the knuckle/strut, there's an arm that the e-brake cable goes through. There should be a U type clip thingy holding the cable at that point. I used a screw driver/hammer to gently back it out, then used some pliers to finish it off. That gave me enough slack to unhook the cable from the caliper, and slide it back out the hole. When you put it back together, it shouldn't throw anything out of wack, assuming you put the clip back in where it came out of. let me know if that was(n't) descriptive enough.

I believe it auto-adjusts. A couple years ago I did the brakes on my car. Got it all put back together, hit the brakes, and heard them click as it took up space I wouldn't worry too much about it.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27265&highlight=firing+order Yep, that's the correct firing order. Does it just crank and crank, and not start? You might try taking the new plugs out, wait a few minutes, put the old DRY plugs back in, and try starting it again. This sounds like the problem I had a while ago.

I'd definitely check the torque on the axle nuts. I've had the best luck with a long cheater bar and a crescent wrench. I've had them come loose all of a sudden several months after having a mechanic replace the axle. good luck

Pull the rear cover off the back door and look for a broken wire on the (left?) side of the hatch. I think it's a fairly common problem where the ground wire heats up and breaks off. It did it on my wife's loyale. IIRC, looking from the rear, the left side is the hot 12v side, and the right side should be ground. You should be able to turn the defroster on and find 12v on one side. side note... I checked the current draw for the defroster after I fixed it. It was around 5 amps