el_freddo

Contrary to Jono, I've fitted PS to both the brumbys in our family. Oddly it makes the vehicle feel lighter/sportier - I can throw the brumby through corners heaps easier and haven't noticed a drop in performance. If you doing a bit of a build get the later model heads - the ones with the black rocker covers. These covers could have been changed but generally are not. The later model heads have a larger intake valve. Dizzy: make sure there is no shaft play. This will have a detrimental effect on your timing and thus performance. Cheers Bennie

ECU pics to help identify if this is the early or late black ECU. I'm hoping for the later black unit! And the missing wires/pins from the ECU plugs: I've read that I'll need the neutral switch wire, so I'll add that in. For the vehicle speed sensor it seems to come down to whether I have the later ECU or not. AC signal would be good to work out as I want to run my AC and have the ECU idle up to take up the extra load of the AC compressor when in operation. If anyone knows what I need to do here I'll be very appreciative! I'm keen to get on top of these two issues before I go ahead and start laying the wiring out in the engine bay. Cheers Bennie

G'day all. I'm looking for some information to help me out with an SPFI kit I'm keen to get onto my Brumby (BRAT) as soon as I can. So any gurus out there, I'm keen as mustard to hear from you about this. We didn't get this kit from the factory over here, so it's originated from the states! I've done a lot of reading tonight on the forum but haven't turned up much. This document, I believe by GD has been most helpful once I was able to find a link that worked. Firstly, I've got a black ECU - how can I tell if it's the rare auto unit that no one seems to want? I'm hoping it's not this model. The number in the: - first line is 22611 AA392; - second line: MECF-022; - third line: "8219" (pressed into the sticker) and 4E. Large number beside these lines is "42" (the answer to life, the universe, everything ) and has 3 plugs. Hopefully someone will be able to identify what type of ECU this is. What I have found is that I DO NOT have at the ECU plugs: F106 plug: - pin 22: Car speed sensor - pin 32: test mode connector F107 plug: - pin 47: AC control F108 plug: - pin 6: AC signal - pin 14: Neutral switch Also missing that I don't need are all the Auto trans pins/wires. I have no idea who cut this loom down originally, I'm certain it was cutdown in the US before it landed in Oz - but I'm wondering if it's common practice to remove the pins/wires at the ECU plugs where they're not needed? (from memory on my EJ22 loom cut down, any unused wires were clipped off about 3 inches from the plugs and moved aside from the wires I was using just incase I ever needed them for anything - which I haven't for the last 8 years). I see that removing unwanted wires from the plugs could be a high possibility - but I would've thought clipping the wire at the plug would be easier than removing the whole pin. So I'm looking at adding the pin 22 car speed sensor and/or the pin 14 neutral switch. The ECU has all pins in each plug - whether or not they're connected to anything I don't know. I want this to run right the first time and if it means adding wires I'm all for it. I've already found a redundant yellow/trace green wire for the temp sensor to temp gauge wire that won't be used so that can be re-pinned to the ECU plug for the neutral switch OR the vehicle speed sensor as they're both the same colour (just to be extra confusing!). Now my issue with the vehicle speed sensor: I'm not certain that our brumby (BRAT) instrument clusters have one in them. I know the L series did but I'm doubtful that I could transfer the guts of the speedometer over and have it all work as it should if it were to fit properly in the first place. Is there any way around this or should I just focus on fitting the neutral switch? The brumby will be going 5 speed L series box eventually (that is looking like shuffling up the list as this will take longer than I anticipated). I also want to run my AC - is there a wire that I can reference to the AC signal to tell the ECU that the AC is on? Any details on this would be appreciated! I have to extend some sensor wiring - namely the AFM and the O2 sensor's wiring. Is there any way that is recommended to do this - or anyone know if the shielding can be added (and soldiered to the remaining shield mesh) to avoid interference? Is it ok for permanent power to reference the positive 12v at the ignition switch? It'll be fused. I ask as this will be a shorter run for this wire rather than going all the way to the battery on the other side of the car... I'm wanting to run the anti pollution gear too. Call me nuts, but I want this to run properly/factory and do the right thing in the emissions department - simply to cover my butt in the event it gets tested for whatever reason. TomRhere sorted me with a bare SPFI inlet manifold - a piece that I was missing from the kit (THANKS MATE!). The only problem is that I thought all the gear to go on the inlet manifold was included from my mate that bestowed me with it (Tweety - the EA81 powered panther trike for those that remember it). That's not the case. So now I'm wondering, is the EA81 EGR device compatible with the SPFI setup or do I need the specific SPFI unit (or will MPFI work?)? Same purge control solenoid shared with the MPFI setup? If so I have each of those to get me sorted. I'm hoping the EGR pipe to the head is easily modified from the EA81 or an EA82 carb intake manifold. If not pls let me know as I'll have to find one stateside... The funky O ring under the throttle body seems to have shrunk a little. Is there any way of sealing this area without that O ring, or should I be shopping for a new one stateside (if still available)? I can't see me refitting the current one without pinching it and causing my engine to fill with coolant... Or is there a trick to fitting it - like gently warming it up to allow it to stretch/expand? I'm not sure how the crank ventilation system works on this. From pics I've found tonight all I can see on the EA82 SPFI's is that each cam bank ventilation pipe comes into a T piece then into the back of the intake pipe. Is this correct? Am I simplifying this system too much? How should it be hooked up to the EA81? I think I've left the PCV out of this equation (also need to find one of these). What is the other little opening/port behind the first "U" in SUBARU on the intake pipe? Other fun stuff: I'm missing all vacuum hard lines, so that should be fun to work out what I need there. I'm looking forward to having this on my EA81 - and hope it sorts out a pinging issue I'm currently experincing. I believe this is from the original carb being tired. So thought it a good time to swap over to the SPFI kit. Being that my vehicle is Right hand drive, the ECU will be located above the passenger's feet, wiring for ignition/start etc will be extended over to the ignition switch via a fuse panel. The rubber gommet on the passenger's side is not used for anything so pulling the wiring through that should be some fun and will hopefully look neat once done. And to show off my Brumby (need to get some dents sorted, the driver's door really lets the whole car down): No, you can't have my 5 poster (bullbar). Build one yourself - many of you seem to have awesome fab skills! Yes, that is my actual number plate And one with Tweety after having this SPFI kit on it, then going draw through carb supercharged until finally settling on a freshly rebuilt EA81 with a weber: I'm looking forward to hearing from the gurus to help me get this sorted and running like a dream! Regards Bennie

link to GD's write up is broken or missing Bennie

Bubbles in the coolant means a weeping/blown head gasket if the cooling system was properly bleed to begin with. I'll have a play with my ej22 and see if a disconnected temp sensor will trigger the Thermo fans. It's the brown plug on your driver's side of the coolant crossover pipe. A real PITA to get to. We need those actual temp readings to properly know what's going on. What was the reading of the mechanic's IR thermometer? Even at normal operating temp you shouldn't be able to touch the upper radiator pipe or any other part of the engine for that matter... Cheers Bennie

Ea82 in a brumby/MY is a step backwards. You're "upgrading" to more oil leaks and less reliability with the rubber band cam belts. If you want to make the ea81 "as good as" the EA82, put the EA82 intake manifold on the EA81 long block. Bigger carb will almost always help with performance... Cheers Bennie

When the pedal is on the floor has the clutch fork actually moved? Have you checked the cable at the top of the pedal to ensure it's still hooked up properly? I hope it's an easy fix! Cheers Bennie

Oil or some form of grease etc on the cat that's burning off. Check your cv boot above the cat to ensure there's not a little pin hole in it - although this should be obvious as you'll have cv grease splatter in every direction in line with the hole. Cheers Bennie

You should also decide on what your upgrade choice is so the shop can give you an accurate quote. Rebuild the ea81 with a mid cam etc OR Convert to an EJ engine of some description (pick one). If going the EJ route it's best to do some research and if possible get a list of required parts from the shop for you to collect prior to conversion beginning Cheers Bennie

I still can't get over how much of a problem this is in the states. In a Australia we simply don't hear about these dead EJ25Ds! I believe Subaru Australia did a factory recall for the head gaskets and replaced rings at the same time. Good luck with your ride L5wolvesf. I'm also wondering why the later ej251 from the Gen3 isn't an option. It's a good engine if looked after. We've got one in the family with 370k km on it and still going strong. HGs done 50k km ago, don't know if they were done before this. Cheers Bennie

Make up a new piece of tin to replace it. The heat shield isn't made of special material, some light sheet metal or even some corrugated roof iron would do the job. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... Dizzys right?? I've not done the ea82 to ea81 swap but have seen it done. I have never heard of the ea81 dizzy being used in the ea82. IIRC, the ea82 has an extended shaft beyond the drive gear where as ea81 does not. I don't know if this little shaft is part of the drive gear or the dizzy's shaft protruding beyond the drive gear. Have a go, document what you find whether it works or not Cheers Bennie

Fuel cut module kicking in until you're cranking/engine is running. Short the fuel pump to make it run to ensure it's primed the fuel system good and proper. Cheers Bennie

If resealing the oil pump ensure you do the shaft seal. Also a good idea to inspect the shaft to ensure there's not a groove worn into it. A small 2-3mm spacer behind the oil pressure release spring can help with lifter tick/upping oil pressure a bit if needed. We did this to several of our EA82s with good results. On one it stopped the engine dying from a dying big end bearing for another two months. Before this mod it would knock at idle once warmed up. After the mod the knock wasn't there at warm idle - but it did eventually die which at that point was always on the cards :/ Seat: If you're not happy with it, swap it. RX turbo driver's seat gives great comfort and support (Unless the GL10 already has this seat). Cheers Bennie

G'day mate, Best thing you can do for your turbo is exactly what you've done for it. I would've mounted this behind the thermo fans so you're not adding hot air in front of the radiator. Another thing to look into for both your vehicles is a copper radiator. A good unit will cost you money but will get the job done well. I'm now running a Nissan Pulsar N13 radiator with my EJ22 in the L series (new mount holes at the bottom drilled in the rad support panel and the upper panel folded up a little to slip the radiator under). Works well but I'm still looking for a bit more cooling in the summer offroading similar to what you are. On road and around town I have no issues. Lower rad hose would be the bit to work out on the EA82 setup as it only points straight out at the engine rather than up on a 45* angle. Years ago I fitted a brumby radiator as a temp setup. It didn't fit well and wasn't a pretty install at all. Creating a larger bash plate, or air dam under the car between the rad support panel and the engine crossmember can increase the negative air pressure in the engine bay which will naturally help with pulling air through the radiator. On our last trip across the Nullarbor in the middel of summer we resorted to using a grill from a truck that we happened to find on the side of the road to create this air dam. Was awesome, but did look a little bit odd if you noticed it: ^ That was loads better than my mad max setup on the trip over... Also, what thermostat are you running? If a generic after market there's a "high flow" option. I'd recommend using this unit if not using a genuine thermostat. The MPFI shouldn't be overheating with the AC on unless there's some other issue lurking/waiting to rear its ugly head. Cheers Bennie

This bearing, is it a common issue for the Gen3 manuals as well? Cheers Bennie

How do you know that the thermostat isn't opening? As stated, the heater circuit is what's used to open the thermostat/regulate engine temp. I've had my engine block frozen, including the radiator and heater core. Long story short, even with the heater circuit frozen the engine managed its temp just fine and managed to thaw out the radiator without damaging the block. HGs held on for another 3 or 4 years after this! One way to gently test things is to go for a drive to warm the car up, then leave it idling in the driveway with the heater OFF. Monitor the temp gauge when doing this (it should take 5 - 10 mins depending on weather), Idle engine and allow it to trigger the thermo fans. IF the temp gauge climbs to 3/4 and there's no fan action you need to look into why. The fans should kick in without ANY change to the temp gauge on the dash. You need to allow time for ALL the coolant in the radiator to heat up for the thermo fans to be triggered. If the radiator is new it may give off a funky smell as it heats up, my all copper heater core did the same thing for ages. And as mentioned, there could be an oil leak that's causing the smell that seems to have raised the alarm for you. I also recommend getting a mechanical aftermarket temp gauge - and tap it into the heater hose - I believe it's the upper one that is the heater IN line. This is the one to tap into so that the use of the heater doesn't interfere with your readings. You will need to knock up a block to fit this. I used some plumbing items, threads were close and I've not had any problems with leaks for many years: Going by my mechanical temp gauge, thermo fans kick in at about 93*C, off at about 87*C, normal operating temp in cold weather is 82*C solid - it won't move! Do you know if the ECU has ever been changed in this car, or whether there's been any wiring mods for whatever reason done under the dash? Long shot here - the wire to trigger the thermo fans from the ECU may be damaged and not allowing the signal to get through. To test this wire you'll have to work out a way to test it's continuity with a multimeter. Or get an infra red temp sensor to do some quick easy testing of temps. Cheers Bennie

Hang on, so is it a WRX gearbox or the NA Impreza box? In my L series I'm running the phase two box (8 bolt) with the factory L series pull clutch setup mated to an EJ22E. I'm pretty sure I'm using a Gen1/2 clutch fork. Find out exactly what the gearbox is for the most accurate help you can possibly get from other forum members. If you don't know what a term means, please ask! There's a HUGE difference between the push and pull clutch setups! Cheers Bennie

Subaru = Lego. Pick one We have a gen3 liberty (legacy) that's running a gen2 solid flywheel with the gen3 clutch pressure plate no worries. This was done to remove the squeaky dual mass flywheel. Cheers Bennie

How did you check the head gaskets? When mine went, there was no mixing of coolant or oil in either systems. EJ HGs can weep lightly for a period of time before they let to and become an issue. I believe mine were doing this for some time before running the engine hot but not straight to the red unless I was in really slow traffic on a warming/hot day. I drove it for two days like this before the engine was stripped down. If you suspect the HGs, just do them, especially if they've not been done before Cheers Bennie

It'll swap in. Just make sure the front and rear diff ratios are matched. Also if able to reference factory workshop manual I'd be checking the speedo drive gear tooth count to ensure they match. Cheers Bennie

Is the thermostat being installed correctly? The spring section should be on the engine side of where the thermostat is mounted. You have to actually mount the thermostat upside down in its position in Subaru EJ engines Cheers Bennie

New waterpump or old pump? This information is critical to be able to help - you haven't said it specifically so we can only assume given you say about the paper gasket that comes with it. If it's te old pump I'd suggest getting a new one. Cheers Bennie

Also on the sump gasket - you'll probably find that it's actually the oil pump leaking and the oil moving over the sump gasket area of the engine at speed. A couple of spray paint cans (rattle cans over your way I believe) to do a wicked street art/street graffiti paint job Cheers Bennie