el_freddo

You wouldn’t happen to have a link to the tailgate glass replacement rubber seal? If someone made the rear fixed glass rubber seals for the MY wagons I reckon they’d make a killing. I’d definitely take one for each side, maybe two if another project comes through. Cheers Bennie

Look up Geci and see what you come up with. He might do different colours on request. I don’t know as I haven’t looked into it. Cheers Bennie

One can only hope! I’ll probably die waiting… Cheers Bennie

If they seal I wouldn’t stress about it. Common for gaskets not to be a perfect fit like this. If it was the other way around where the hole in the gasket was smaller than the exhaust port or exhaust pipe I’d be concerned. If they were cheap enough throw them in and see how they go. Cheers Bennie

Were these resistors in the ECU? Cheers Bennie

Yeah I get that you want to run the auto until it’s proper dead. But you’re also wasting valuable conversion time - and when (or more importantly), where will the auto let you down again? It’s almost Russian roulette. My thoughts on the matter. If you’re keen on the auto keep at it. I’m no guru and I don’t know if this applies to just one or both autos in the MY and L Series - from reading on here common issues seem to be the pump shaft spline stripping out or the governor device on the side of the transmission under the dome bit giving issues. Cheers Bennie

Mint looking MY! Auto… “just” manual swap it - you’ll thank yourself later. Cheers Bennie

Best bet would be to buy a set of heads or an engine that’s thrown a bottom end through the new skylight - if you can find one. All the best, Bennie

Any autopsy pics? My popcorn is going cold Cheers Bennie

I’m not overly familiar with the EA71, but with the Weber carb did you block off the throttle heater coolant passage at the base of the carb? This could possibly be an issue, I don’t know for sure. Only thought as to why it’s the passenger’s side is the car is parked on a lean towards that side of the vehicle, allowing the coolant to flow only that way. Long shot. Worst case scenario, you need a new head due to corrosion or cracking somewhere that fills both cylinders (I assume) very quickly. Sorry I can’t be of more help. My initial thought was the intake manifold gaskets leaking. Did you check that are out thoroughly when you replace the gaskets? No signs of leaking or deformity on the mating surfaces. For a rebuilt engine I would’ve expected a much higher compression. Running it for that short period of time without coolant would not cause any damage. I’ve seen (and cringed) people run them for up to a minute without coolant! Not cool. Hopefully you get this sorted and it’s a simple issue to fix. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm, I can’t think of anyone off the top of my head that’s written up a tutorial. It’s one of those things that you just get into and forget to take picks etc as you go. Re: silicone. Just lever on the plate, the silicone will let go. The trick is not to damage the mounting face. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm… think I’m looking at EJ cases too much these days, I don’t remember the top of the bell housing being so rounded. And those dowel hole up top - never seen that before, maybe a series 1 thing, I haven’t played with those gearboxes before. Cool audio clip. Could be many things - crown wheel touching the low range selector ring if they did a diff ratio swap (in which case, have a look at the pinion shaft for a weld mark); reverse gear partially engaged enough to click/grind like that - or a partially engaged drive gear for that matter too. So many possibilities of what it could be. Either way, don’t just drop that box in (as established)! Looking forward to autopsy pics Cheers Bennie

Is that measurement centre to centre? I know it’s not much different, bolt thickness really. A cross reference of the lower studs to opposite top bolt hole will confirm I reckon. If you have an EA82 gearbox you’ve already got the good bits. The only thing you need for the EJ dual range setup is the front cases from a dual range EJ gearbox - must be a phase 1 as they messed around and changed some specs in the reverse gear that would weaken it if a phase 2 case was used with phase 1 internals. I reckon it would be worth opening up that box just for a look. Could be interesting to see what was done (or more likely not done). Cheers Bennie

Or just run the later model knuckle/hub assembly. They’re Lego and interchange. Cheers Bennie

Are these the block threads that the three bolts hold the bracket on to the block or the bracket threads that hold the tensioner piston to the bracket? If it’s the tensioner piston bolts to bracket thread that’s the issue try and get another bracket. Failing that get a bracket for the “newer” tensioner (which is said to be inferior but is used on all EJ engines since the mid to late ‘90’s so parts are plentiful) and run that newer style tensioner. If it’s the threads in the block a helicoil would be the way to go. Mind you, I can’t see how .5 of a foot pound would strip your threads out, I get the sarcasm side of things, but if your torque wrench was set and operating properly those threads must have copped some previous abuse, or you seriously over tensioned the bolt(s). How many are we talking about that need replacing anyway? Another thing to consider is that a cooked block from over heating will have softer metal meaning softer threads as a result. There may be other signs of serious overheating such as melted looking rear cam cover parts. Cheers Bennie

I wouldn’t be too concerned about that silicone, a little goes a long way when you flatten it out like that. I do question the quality of the cleaner looking box having seen it now. It was definitely open at some point, if the slaz didn’t give it away, the bolts being refitted backwards to factory does. And this points to another concern - if the builder didn’t pay attention to this rather benign detail, what other more important details did they miss/ignore? The sloppy feeling diff points to an incorrectly adjust backlash. Not the end of the world as it’s easily fixed with the sundials on either side of the diff, since the box is all closed up you’ll have to do it by feel or open the box up to gut it and play around. That is probably worth the effort given you also mention the selector shaft flops around. Sounds like a dedent ball or spring is missing. I didn’t realise the replacement box was a rebuilt one. My first thought was the GT dude re-cased it with a set of dual range EJ cases to bolt it directly to his EJ engine, but you guys didn’t get that box over there so chances are slim. Easy check is to measure the upper bellhousing bolt holes. If they’re different between the two boxes you have a set of EJ dual range cases with what seems to be L series internals (this works as I’ve done it myself three times now!). The L series box would just smoke the front tyres all the time with an EJ turbo out the front. It will eventually go bang especially if driven hard in 4wd. Otherwise they’re essentially the same as the WRX gearbox - ratios vary slightly but each gearset is the same thickness, bearings are the same size. The low range setup seems to hold up when engaged in high range, but in low it would be easy to strip gears if going too hard on the boost. I’m guessing there’s no oil in the spare gearbox to drain out and have a look at? Cheers Bennie

Run a horn relay that handles the current. Have the switch turn the relay on and off. Cheers Bennie

I’d recommend putting your money towards an EJ conversion if you can. I did an EA82 MPFI conversion on my DL wagon. This is how I “cut my teeth” on EFI systems. No joke, I literally finished the conversion and rebuild when an old teacher introduced me to the Ausubaru forum where I quickly learnt about the EJ conversion. Since doing that to my DL I haven’t looked back. The EA died a sad death when the radiator blew apart in 45°C heat in the middle of nowhere. After jerry-rigging a carb EA82 in and running it for about 18 months (it kept me going) I got the EJ22 sorted and swapped it in. The advantages? Many parts are interchangeable between EJ engines, fuel economy was better, more power, more reliability and no oil leaks! These days I’d drop a phase 2 EJ20 into the L if I did it again. I too was in my 20’s back then. Still got the car but I don’t drive it as much as I once did. That might change again soon. It’s got 530,000km on the body and I’ve offroaded it probably more than they were ever designed to. If keeping the EA82 is your only option, make sure you do a good job of cleaning all mating surfaces especially the ones that have three bond on them (I’m looking at you cam boxes!). This will keep the oil leaks at bay for a long time. Lastly, you cannot get itchy feet for more power with an EA82, they just aren’t built to make easy power gains other than replacing with said EJ conversion. Been done a thousand times now so it’s a proven setup. It sounds like you’ve got a good head on young shoulders. Kudos. Look after it! And hug your parents from us as Moosens kind of said Cheers Bennie

If you really love the EA82 you could have the engine sleeved. 50 thou over seems a lot. I thought 40 thou was as far as they went with new rings and pistons for the EA82. I could be wrong, I only ever rebuilt one before I really learned about them. Cheers Bennie

I’m in it too. I’ve picked up a few cheap Subaru projects. They get chipped away at when I can and when parts become available. Currently I’ve got my Targa Brumby (that’s what we call them over here!) that’s on the road. 2 RS turbo Libertys (Gen1) - one complete, one in pieces that I’m working on. Neither on the road. Both picked up cheap (not cheap now!). And a 1985 stamped EA81 MY wagon that I rescued from a wreckers yard where it was destined to be crushed. Its power steering rack was the reason why I found it. That went to a good cause. Anyway, side tracked there. Lastly, my offroad L series. Still registered but needs some work to bring her back to her former glory. All up these vehicles cost me $7500 to purchase. The Brumby, MY wagon and L series were all $500 specials! So I’m definitely in the thrifty category! Cheers Bennie

What other option is there? Throw in the unknown box and send it as you say. It’ll either work as it should or it won’t! Otherwise you have potentially three paperweights sitting around… Cheers Bennie

The VT commodore had a vacuum actuated tap from memory. That might work ok. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/401549783595?_skw=corvette+heater+tap&itmmeta=01JV1WVEBGSPBTEP9B9113TB8G&hash=item5d7e3b722b:g:OnkAAeSwpRRoGwiv&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eJINj5jgQt19ervaLpB6mTJVlbBUu4vglR9vmIgxvxhRqvEnQJ9doxy%2BZktYtxQqsZbJrKIht9otsWH84id9755%2BIn4cypkZl27%2FKDjPv%2BOsNEZ56AEsLRJhfG4c2ur2ajr7zjHFcU5JxN%2FWNrtoG2K1ptrcQU37fJiCbGw0K2Fo8C6CPpRgnrpt0Z5HDKMS%2FsRHx7x2D1HmCQYm5cwboEgRKEm%2FAyJisAIvLqnBIPF9%2FBi%2FMeZ4G5Ee8S1CnZI%2Bp21AmT9uMJ3RwDd4tUUigpFT6ya35g5u%2B4YLFI1ivSog%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM8uXtvNhl Or if you can find one from a Brat era EA81 they have a cable operated tap that’s a bypass setup rather than just a tap. There’s this one that popped up in my search for something else. It’s like the best setup but vacuum operated much like the VT unit, except it’s a bypass: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/113243302295?_skw=corvette+heater+tap&itmmeta=01JV1WVEBGGHWS4HTZR14X1VKH&hash=item1a5dd3a997:g:WhcAAOSwDMNkGQe4&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eL7rKl%2F2ljcIXVOOnL54JOwJ%2BUR2fbUufq%2FoaM9p7nLt85Zdd7srrSorj2BIUWgGYmb4Flk3R2uJRBAkQEtJbW%2FWyIGJoKk5hAQAJ15GBRPSVynDiwwJynUYCg83YGr%2BVPLXw3%2B7y1dsD%2BgxvfWL1RMtnFO9t0ly%2BeOt6vf2XdZjwrywR65%2BQRM6AVvBIzW6CMz8caCR3ZoI%2BBQFqFxb%2BFGy%2BT5X7AQDUVNFYSSZWq%2FU9FNhnNNkFfbK1C0qWh7oYEypRNfLV%2F2X8DJCDQK7jboTUHKNl1yQIRfpYTUXyJCQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM8uXtvNhl Damn I hate these eBay link addresses! Cheers Bennie

If you’re pulling the synchros out you might as well get them bead blasted and put them back in. This will be your issue - the synchros are worn out and smooth so they no longer grab to match the gearset speeds with the engagement hub. Rough them up and they should work properly again. Gearbox work can get tricky if you don’t know what you’re doing - but as always, the best way is to learn! Just have a back up plan if the rebuild doesn’t go as planned. Cheers Bennie

I’ve got rear discs on both my Brumby and L series without changing the standard system other than braided brake lines. The brumby is by far the vehicle with the best brakes now! The L series needs new rotors or pads after sitting around for a few years, plus it runs 27 inch diametre tyres so that takes some of the punch out of the brakes. If you’re running the old rubber hoses I highly recommend replacing them at the very least with new rubber hoses. Best upgrade is the braided. I had a kit for the brumby from an ADR approved kit from eBay that did all the stock hoses then the flexible line to the rear caliper made up by a local brake and clutch specialist to finish off the complete system. The important thing is that your fronts lock up before the rear. If you’re locking the rear up before the front I’d recommend overhauling the front brakes then looking into the front/rear brake bias if the issue persists. It’s down right dangerous to have the rear brakes lock up before the front. Cheers Bennie

And even easier if the OP is going to remove the heads. @4wdHonky- if you have a bottom end bearing issue you could swap the NA block in for the turbo one AND swap the turbo pistons in at the same time. The bottom ends are all the same, just the pistons are different for lower compression partly due to lower grade fuels and crappy tuning in the 80’s and partly for boost being applied. Personally I’d try to keep the stock turbo engine running as it is if there aren’t any other issues other than the spark plug hole. Cheers Bennie