el_freddo

I’ve not had this issue and I’m running the EJ22 with the EJ flywheel and clutch sandwiched in front of a hybrid EJ gearbox. My difference is that I’ve got some wedges under the engine mounts to “correct” an apparent angle change between the engine crossmember mount face and that of the EJ engine mount angle. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... interesting that you didn’t get the NA MPFI. Those turbo boys would’ve been hard up looking for replacement heads when needed! Cheers Bennie

You’re after a 4wd rear disc setup. The2wd rear disc hub won’t fit the 4wd. Everything else is basically the same. The 2wd backing plate is only different in the hole for the bearing to pass through. The key is the 4wd rear disc hub. Cheers Bennie

I can confirm what @ferp420 is saying about rear strut length - the 2wd unit is longer than the 4wd unit. As ferp said, this is due to the 4wd unit needing to clear the CV joint of the rear shaft. The 2wd unit has the lower strut/shock mount directly behind the rear wheel axle. As for adjustable struts, the came out on series 1 of the L series, and we’re dropped for fixed height struts on the series 2 - but they are interchangeable. Cheers Bennie

Problem is that the Aussie market is a BIG place and freight isn’t cheap over long distances. We don’t see the L series in yards anymore, even the Gen1 Liberty/Legacy is had to find. @ferp420 - 25 spline diff stubs are also found on the manual NA MPFI EA82. The auto versions is still 23 spline. Cheers Bennie

Try the factory L series unit or rotate the thermostat housing 180*, make an elbow piece to marry to the factory hose and use a small piece of hose for the gap between the adaptor piece and the thermostat housing. The factory L series upper hose would be way easier though! Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! Bit of a stance nation fan? Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... touring wagon, could be either! One way to do it is to slip an inner CV joint as far as you can and count the splines. It’ll be 23 or 25. Or look at the fuel outlet pipe at the fuel tank to the fuel pump, if it’s 10mm the vehicle was EFI. If it’s closer to 5mm, it was a carb unit. Or if you’re running a surge tank, you probably have a originally carb fed EA82 touring wagon on your hands. Cheers Bennie

It’s more than likely a carb unit originally. Mis your wagon a touring wagon or a DL with the flat roof? If flat roof it’s definitely a carb unit which means 23 spline count on the diff stubs. Cheers Bennie

Geez mate, it’s not Facebook with its millennial instant gratification! This forum is quite friendly, is very active for a forum these days and many members have a lot of knowledge that they’re willing to share. But if you’re going to wallow around in self pity you’re not going to get far on here. In your current situation I know that’s an easy thing to do. I was referencing your second post in this thread. Welcome to the forum Dusty. Have you got a link to a thread about your EJ conversion? Cheers Bennie

Welcome Raynman, I’ve put a set of Repco units into my brumby. Not as good as OEM but the best aftermarket units I’ve come across so far. Cheers Bennie

You might find you’ll get more replies when posting in the 90’s to present sub forum @ElliottAugust Don’t get me wrong, there will be some stez buffs in here, but being specific to your vehicle’s setup I reckon you’d get more specific replies in the other sub forum Cheers Bennie

Be wary of swapping the Torsten bar setups between the wagon and the MV. Apparently (I’ve only heard) the MV’s Torsten rating is higher than that of the wagon. This is the difference between load carrying and ride comfort. While you’ve got the diff and driveshafts out, now is a good time to tackle the inner CV cups that are more than likely welded to the diff output shafts due to rust. With full access you shouldn’t have too much trouble getting these apart. Lube up before reinstalling! Cheers Bennie

That rear end will take it. Just make the upper support for the shock/strut strong enough for the job. If the factory springs don’t handle the weight you want, use a set of front Honda springs from an early 90’s vehicle. But without a body, rear diff, glass etc to support, the factory springs should be good to go. I made a trailer from an MY wagon rear end. Ran without shocks for years, not ideal at the traffic light where it took ages to sit still but it tracked awesome at speed around corners loaded or unladen. It’s now got a set of new shocks on it and the thing is perfect bar the rust in the old Nissan single cab tray tub I’ve got welded on top. It’s carry so much more than it ever should time and time again. Go for it, you won’t regret it! Cheers Bennie

@Ferret54 - EJ engine. EA was L series and MY prior to the EJ series engine beginning in ’89 Cheers Bennie

(Edit) There are two belt types, and two SOHC sizes. DOHC = double overhead cams and SOHC =,single overhead cams (shorter belt than the DOHC) It does not matter what year your EJ engine is - the belt requirement depends on whether it’s DOHC or SOHC. Tensioner type doesn’t matter! Both systems have a tensioner, two smooth idlers and one cogged idler. Later DOHC’s have a small smooth idler between the tensioner and the intake cam wheel. Cheers Bennie

Exactly what forester2002s said. This is the FB series engine setup. Cheers Bennie

Nope, drive shafts here are what you guys call half shafts. Sorry for the confusion! That centre drive shaft is known as a tail shaft or prop shaft over here! Cheers Bennie

This points to driveshafts for me. I realise you said you swapped them for known good ones, but this is what my thinking comes back to - particularly if it’s a big steering wheel wobble at lower speeds. Cheers Bennie

Only if it’s not brake cleaner. Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder will say DO NOT HONE THE BORES!! Seriously don’t hone them. As for the ring question, I though that was standard practice! I’ll wait for GD’scomment on the one! Cheers Bennie

<edited out incorrect info - phase 1 and phase 2 cam belts are different lengths> Changing of the tensioner isn’t an issue. Make sure you’re using the little line/dash on the front outer edge of the cam wheels and not the arrow on one of the spokes. The marker for the crank is on the back of the crank cam wheel, it lines up with a mark on the crank angle sensor mount. Make sure this is lined up correctly when checking the cam positions. Check that the crank and cam sensors are still fitted properly. Cheers Bennie

Relay can be bypassed with a piece of wire that connects the power wire to the pump power wire. Sorry, I can’t remember wire colours etc. I think I went with the fattest two wires when I bypassed mine for testing. Cheers Bennie

Further thought: check for spark. If you’re not getting any spark, the fuel cutout relay does not power up the fuel pump after an initial prime of 3-5 seconds. Cheers Bennie

The fuel safety cut relay is under the dashboard above the driver’s feet. In my brumby/brat it’s a black unit. This could be disconnected or have a kill switch incorporated into it. I don’t know that it’s negative switching or not. If it was positive switching you wouldn’t see any voltage at the pump. The other thing it could be is a blocked fuel pipe. Used compressed air to blow any crud from the front to the back of the car - disconnect the flexible fuel lines so you’re not blowing crap into your new pump. If the car won’t start after this, you could manually apply 12v and earth to make the pump run, then try starting. If it starts then you know for sure you have a wiring issue to sort out. Have fun, these little utes are real gems! Cheers Bennie