ccrinc

Gotta agree with Nipper and Mtnsmith here: if you do the "top" end on an old engine, it's not a matter of "if" but "when" the bottom end is going to fail. For all the reasons stated so far. This goes back as far as you can go in internal combustion engine technology. It's a fact of life. With a boxer engine, I might even say to draw the line in the sand at say 80,000 miles instead of 140,000. That said, are you getting a puff at smoke at start up only, or blowing blue stuff all the time? If it's not smoking all the time, it's a cheap check to put in a new Subaru Genuine PCV valve. They go bad all the time and with no warning. Do NOT go aftermarket on this one. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Actually, I think I will reply to this and try to clear up a few things. (And I know exactly who the person is who emailed you. No further comment there.) 1) What needs to be made clear, and possibly more so in conversation with potential customers like yourself, is that while the engine is completely rebuilt, and many of the associated parts like the alternator for instance are either new or remanufactured, not EVERY piece is. The power steering pump is a good used one which we pull from a working car. To have every part of this entire assembly new or rebuilt would make the cost and price prohibitively expensive. (The issue was that it leaked: every Subaru PS pump leaks eventually: it's the nature of the beast.) 2) As for the bolts, and the mismatched parts: while we do try very hard to make sure this kind of thing doesn't happen, sometimes it does. IIRC, that was the first "complete" assembly done by an employee in training, and the double checking either didn't get done or wasn't noticed. Forgive me, but we're human and Rick was out recovering from double hernia surgery at the time. And when we get extremely busy and have multiple orders for Vanagon conversions and aircraft engines as we did at that time, it is possible for items to get put with the wrong order. 3) The new style of breather plates are horrible! SOA replaced the trusty cast aluminum ones with a thinner alloy model. We have discovered (the hard way) that Ultra Grey RTV does not adhere to these new ones. SOA has also had to change what they usually use, but the dealer parts dept. didn't tell us that. We aren't really satisfied with what the dealer uses either, so we're looking into an aircraft sealant instead. 4) There is no such thing as an automatic or manual engine in a '90-94 Legacy. The engine longblocks and intake manifolds are identical. It is the electronic stuff that bolts to them that makes the difference. When a shop installs a conversion engine (as in this case) that an individual orders, communication between all parties is very important if a problem arises. We never had any communication with the shop. The bolt issues may or may not be factual. But, we took care of it anyway, because we would rather err on the side of caution or goodwill in almost any case. I feel confident that nobody knows Subaru engines better than we do. Each engine that goes out has our name and reputation on it and is built with that in mind. We are not a big company, and we like it that way. But we take care of our customers and that, in the end, is what we believe makes even a small company a great one. Gary is right about sourcing all the items yourself. It's a huge pain, but it is considerably less expensive. (Phew! I think that more like .99 worth! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Near downtown is Strictly Automotive, Subaru specialists for about 20 yrs. 804 W. 10th Ave. (303) 436-1700. Ask for Mark and tell 'em CCR sent ya! (Wings is good too). Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Oh wow! That road looks like FUN!! I'd take my SVX on it! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

What Jamie said Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Most likely culprit is a worn detente. (It's what holds the shift fork in place, IIRC). Most common cause of a worn detente? Resting your hand on the shifter while you're driving :cool: ...usually in the higher gears. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Okay. I don't usually jump into discussions about CCR, but I think it's time to get involved here because there are some miscommunications and assumptions flying that are a bit inaccurate. 1) There was an accidental error in your quote. We researched your original email and it should have been $2295. Had your reply email been to clarify and not to accuse us of smoking crack, we could have easily resolved the error immediately. (The $3195 was for the '99 EJ22, not the '96 EJ22.) That's a much more expensive engine to build since it's a hybrid between the EJ22 and the EJ25 SOHC. That price also includes non-residential shipping anywhere in the 48 states and the full gasket installation kit (all Subaru Genuine parts). 2) We have always paid for return shipping. This is nothing new. I apologize that this was not spelled out in the reply to you. I was gone for a few weeks and the usual method of replying with quotes was not utilized by the person who was handling them for me. 3) The core charge is reasonable and based on what we have to pay to replace the cores for future rebuilds. It is also refundable. Even if the block was scored beyond use, we will usually give a partial refund based on what we can salvage. 4) Admittedly, we did have a small price increase on a few (not all) engines in January because our cost of materials and machining went up substantially. (Example: machining costs alone per engine are over $250 per engine, not including clean up). We held off as long as we could on that, but eventually could not continue to absorb the higher costs to us and had no choice in the matter. Also, please remember that we won't use cheap, questionable aftermarket parts. All parts are Subaru Genuine or truly OEM when we can buy from the manufacturers who actually supply Subaru. 5) Compare our prices to the only other 2 companies who even attempt Subaru rebuilds: ATK and Jasper. I think you'll be surprised at how reasonable our engines are. And we actually stand behind our work. Now to address the gentleman who is asking about putting an EJ22 into a '99: No, it won't fit. For one thing, the bell housing is actually part of the block itself. Hope this helps to clarify things. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Umm, no it won't. The 2.5 is NOT a "bored out" 2.2. They have many differences externally and internally. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

How "reasonable"? We sometimes can source a car for our USMB buddies. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Be positively religious about oil changes. The chain tensioners are lubricated by the engine oil. Seems that the tensioners will last a long time and service the chain well if oil changes are regular and you don't let the engine run low on oil. If not, major engine damage! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Florida's not bad for bugs in December. (I grew up there: trust me, I know :cool: ) April-May and September are the months you need to coat the front of your car with baby oil. Lovebugs all over the highways! They're attracted to the carbon monoxide. Have a great trip! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Saturday night in Toledo, Ohio. I spent a year there one day. (Elton John quote) Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Carbureted pistons differ in looks from SPFI only by the fact that SPFI pistons are directional. That is, they both have the half moon indentations, but SPFI will have an R or L and an arrow pointing to the front of the block. Carb pistons do not have that. Turbo pistons dished. MPFI uses SPFI pistons in a turbo block. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

I like Kumho tires. I have had several sets on both my turbo Legacy and my SVX. They handle well in in both wet and dry conditions. Good in snow too. The one issue I have with Kumhos is that they are too soft: the things are nail magnets! Otherwise, they wear very well. That said, I went to Yokohamas couple of years ago on the Legacy, but here in Colorado, the dang things dry-rotted too fast, so I went back to Kumhos recently and am just trying to be really careful about where I drive. (Construction sites are NOT on my daily drive list...never have been :-\ ) Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Front of crank pulley to back = 24" Side to side, about the same as an EJ22 = 32" Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Sorry, bad news: this is a highly interferential engine. The car was running when the belt broke. Therefore, you have internal damage: no ifs, ands or buts. The only question is how much? Our experience says it'll be both head and piston damage. Happy Black Friday :-\ Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Off topic, but... anybody who lives in Alaska should become a "known shipper" with Alaska Airlines. We did it and we found it's like $300 cheaper than BAX to ship from Denver to AK. Everybody I know in Alaska has to have stuff shipped in from time to time, so it's definitely worth checking out. The process isn't bad either, just takes some time. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

I'm not the diagnostic wizard that my husband is, but a few things come to mind: 1) Fuel filter. If there's crud in there, it can float up and down, causing erratic behavior. 2) Thrust bearing. Try a heavy oil, like 20W50. A thrust bearing knock can come and go depending on rpms. If the heavier oil helps, that's a good probability. (What weight did you say you tried? I forget.) 3) Off brand or old timing belt. Sounds almost like it's jumping timing (and back ). Luckily, with a '94 model, that's not doing the internal damage a newer engine would suffer. 4) Knock sensor. I agree with the earlier post that this is something to be looked at. Could be corroded or broken. They go bad with no warning. Use only a Genuine Subaru one! Since it sat for so long, this poor car could have all sorts of electrical gremlins. But there's no Subaru so old that it can't be resurrected! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Yes. That's an o-ring at that location, not a seal. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

We recommend and use Permatex Copper Gasket Spray. Helps the gasket seal to the mating surfaces. Good stuff! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

If you're already using a reman'd shortblock, you don't need the case o-rings (there are quite a few), the oil pump o-rings, etc. If you are doing a complete engine, you need all those PLUS the head gaskets, cam seals, front and rear main seals. Long story short: the 401 is for a complete engine rebuild and has everything, except valve cover gaskets. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Can't say much about the "block set". I would imagine it has the case o-rings and maybe head gaskets. The 401 set is a complete set: all the gaskets and o-rings except valve cover gaskets. Also valve stem seals, exhaust gaskets, intake gaskets, oil filler neck o-rings, water crossover pipe o-rings, dipstick tube o-rings, etc. What are you planning on doing anyway? Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Try these people: http://www.performanceradiator.com Good quality. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

There is one thing you should know. I got this info from a guy I totally trust at GO Subaru here in Denver. The tensioners for the timing chain are lubricated by the engine oil. You MUST be positively religious about changing the oil every 3,000 miles and never let it get low. If you do, the tensioners will last quite nicely. If you don't, you will have problems. Those problems will lead to timing chain failure. Spell that "expensive". You are better off forgetting about synthetic oil with longer oil changes and doing less expensive oil changes regularly on this particular engine. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

What I want to know is...why on earth would you want to? Emily http://www.ccrengines.com