bluedotsnow

when lifting a lego L with outback suspension you have to match the longer struts with lift blocks that go between the body and the cross member. if you don't put the spacers in you wont be able to line the bolts up, I know I had to go back to the scrap yard! on a side note I just picked up some 05 outback rims 17x7! fitted them up to my lifted rear end and had just enough clearance with 225/55/17s but they rubbed on the strut spring perch of the stock L front strut.

Just picked up two sets of subaru rims for my girlfriend and I one is from a 2001 forester measuring 16x6.5 I need tires for these, with her stock legacy L suspension whats a good tire size? for meself I got 17x7 rims from an 05 outback yes 5x100 they have 225/55/17 tires blizzaks to be precise. I have a quarter to half inch of clearance on the side of the strut tower in the rear thanks to outback shocks and 1 inch lift blocks. the front however still has be be outbacked and rubs on the top of the strut tower. any info and advice appreciated!

twitch man I'm so sorry I hope you find one that suites your needs I know how hard it can be to replace an old friend you poured your blood and sweat into... all bad uninsured motorists go to hell and I'm sure all good subarus go to heaven if there are such places......

rainxed my windshield and rear mirror, new wiper blades, oil change... :clap:WINTER:clap:

thanks loyal great info! I'm definitely going to get some for our next servicing both my girlfiriend and I will be over 300k at that point. I have not seen the liquimoly grease before is this ball joint grease or can it be used in a differential? is this similar to the liquimoly for gears? that's the only product I have been able to find locally. I have some of the mos2 for engines have you ever used it in a differential? where do you get yours? do you know of a good inline retailer? Thanks again!

I have an OEM thermo housing ill sell for half dealer price

I have been thinking about getting into flipping older subaru's meating them up and what not.... I live in california where the cars have less rust so body work would be less of a hassle.... does anyone know of people doing this in california? does anyone think there is money in restoring old brats and the likes with suspension mods? I swear the junk yards here have plenty of these for parts. how hard is it to get rebuild kits for MT's of that genera?

checked rear diff, changed front diff oil, EEEEWWWWW! so much smoother now! just going to top off with some mos2 for gears when I get a chance (just in 4eat diffs)

I'm WAY over using this or any moly product in an MT. I should have been more specific about the moly/lithium grease, could I use a small amount of this in a differential specifically rear diff or my front diff on a 4eat. I'm guessing this is much less concentrated mos2 than the altrom stuff. is it possible to mix a grease like this with regular 80w90 gear oil? obviously in small amounts. to only be used in differentials not transmission. I'm 99% sure I'm going to wait until I get the altrom mos2 for gears... but my girls car needs a diff change front is very low.... most likely going to change both diffs tomorrow with regular gear oil no additives. I'm also wondering if in a bad situation one could use just the grease in a rear diff say if the case were cracked or seal was leaking.... worst case scenario... Thanks all!

I contacted the Motul and at first they just told me " our product is not for L.S.D."... and thats it then they refereed me to the dealership for my "application" NO HELP!!!! when I have called altrom who make lubro moly to ask questions they hop on all data or whatever and actualy look info up and give me an informed answer! I picked up a container of supertech lithium moly grease and am wondering if I can use this product in a similar fashion as the altrom mos2 for gears. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Moly-Grease-14-oz/16928003

no suspension parts(other than tie rod ends)... thanks for the identification fair tax

anyone know what these are? also a few more pics...

SOME pics

parts sorted pics in an hour... nipper I don't think I have one for a 4eat if you really need one this is something I could snag at pick-n-pull really easy and after a pressure washing it would look like new, and the o rings can't cost much. for a nominal charge I'll even paint it with high temp enamel any color you want lol cheers!

a friend of mine who works at an independent shop passed on a big box of OEM parts they had laying around. I'm just getting into it now but I can see an abs module, cam seals, dip stick tubes, a freon line, thermostat housings(one aluminum)..... lots more! will post pics when I'm done sorting into categories. almost everything is in an OEM bag with part number so I will be referencing online resources to verify usage info. I'd like to sell all I can for good prices way under what the dealer wants, or if one person wants the whole box I'd be willing to sell it all for a negotiable price. not bad for a $5 investment:clap:

as I understand it its ok for both rear diffs, it would be safe for my 4eat front diff. please correct if the above is wrong. would literally a few drops and no more be ok in a 5mt? I understand that if to much moly film build up on the synchros it prevents them from matching rpm but if I'm using 3 small drops mixed evenly with an entire trans fluid change would it be ok? I'm not trying to find a way to use this stuff just trying to get a solid understanding of moly products in MT's and their effect on synchros. many thanks!

I'd like to use mos2 for gears in my girlfriends 5mt legacy and my 4eat legacy where applicable for diffs and her trans. the product states not for self locking diffs, I don't believe we have any L.S.D.s. is a molybdenum based product safe for a 5mt viscous coupling? is this safe for regular or non LSD Subaru diffs? Thanks!

http://opposedforces.com/parts/ click click WINGO!

for my money the oem seem like the bees knees, even once a year is to often to take your suspension apart just to lube one item, on a brake job maybe.... I'm really going to make a concerted effort to start pulling these from the junk yard as both myself and a friend with an 99OBS need the same bushing. Anyone interested in buying a used set of bushings that are inspected and tested? I'm thinking $40 shipped. the picknpulls near me are full of these.

I would guess that lubricant is for pressing the urethane bushings into the metal housing? if I'm understanding the aftermarket product properly this might be something you want to pay a machine shop to press in. unless you own a solid vice that can apply pressure very evenly, this I would attempt a wheel bearing not so much.

thanks for the info! mine is not that bad yet although I don't do to much hard driving, no torque steer yet....

whats the difference between a little and a lot of grease coming out of the link? mine has been oozing and getting worse over several months there can only be so much grease keeping the weather out.

realized I need to clean/replace my starter ground today X.x, so minor but prevented my car from starting....

put the car on jack stands today for a drive shaft inspection as I lifted the rear a little, wanted to make sure all the clearances were met and nothing was binding. then I saw this transverse link bushing, a friend likely over torqued it after thinking he needed to remove it for a stuck axle nut situation.... its been a few months and the amount of grease coming out has increased alot. I'm worried its going to dry up after all the grease falls out. any comments or advice appreciated. I know this isn't really a summer problem but once weather gets into this isn't it eventually going to cease and or cause problems. side note if anyone else needs one quick localy I think a junk yard is your best bet as these are nearly $100 and dealer only as far as I can find.

I have a whine too x.x I think its the carrier bearing or damage from winters auto disabling my duty c valve body so the clutch packs and bearings weren't lubricated for many thousands of miles.