ivans imports

its the slave cly they get sticky at the end of there travel i have problems with thiss when i install new clutches as the slave has been in one place for long time when a new clutch is put in it runs in a different place and sticks . i have been able to clean it up and get them working again take it off push the rod in and see if it returns on its own if not that is problem

its iceing up freezing the carb carb +cold + elavation + mosture+ velocity = ice put a heat riser on it a good one and a carb coolant heater of some kind we had this problem when we ran the SU carbs on the ea81 it took two coolant heaters and a hot air riser to keep the SU carbed turbo ea81 from freezing up. The oil burning is caused by the carb being frozen shut and pulling on the pcv syestem to try and get air is sucking the oil out of bottom end. Have leaned thiss the hard way many tril and error carbed turbo years

the fwd fuse powers the soilinod to open the valve a open solinoid dumps the preshure giving you fwd a unpowerd soiliniod closes the curcuit and forces the fliud thru the awd curcuit a no fwd light indacates no power to trans curciut check trans fuse and trans grounds and main intake ground and trans electrical conectors

yesterday i fixed a 02 outback had misfire on #3 cly the plug was tracked down the side and was new plug the boot had a track and the shop transferd the problem to the new plug by reuseing a bad wire. They had spent a ton of money on diagnostics because the shop did not whant to look at the plugs they had just changed. Anyway one used plug and one used wire and ran perfect had many unrealated codes but the ecu was just gessing what was wrong so plugs wires and valvecover gasket set and should be happy happy

have had many come in with no snap ring and had been gone for long time its not critical but should be there i think you could remove the iner seal and install it i whould undo the lower ball joint and you can pull the knukle away far enuff to reinstall snap ring

they use a floating shaft in the diff cast housing to cast shaft can have some slop is ok its held in with a internal c clip from inside. And has nothing to do with the berring preload addjusters on the side of case they are to sett crown and pinion freeplay only when transs is out. The outputs can be very slopy and no worrys i have never seen it cause any problems. But have seen many trans ruined by messing with the preload addjustments

did a 98 outback clutch yesterday total time was 2hrs ten minutes i keep a pile of pre surfaced flywheels here so dont have to wait for resurface and if it has a plastic plate like above change it also if the rear main is black update it to a brown viton crank seal the black ones break down

Thats why check for power at coil rules out and power supply problems the coil gets 12 volt when key is on Then we listen for ig realy to turn on that indacates that ig switch is turning on realy Then we listen for feul pump realy to cycle thiss indacates that the ecu is geting crank signal { after the first feul pump cycle when cranking ] Then we put a noid light on injector plug and watch for injector pulse. Spark check well never see spark problems ever unless bad crank senser. Out of 200 no starts one no spark in 12 years was a smashed crank senser got a steel ball berring from coged idler at some point.

good call on new hub we have a shop that has jiged up a lathe to weld them up and turn them back down when they get damaged we repair 6 at a time if that gives you a idea how ofter they go bad i have 12 rebuilt ones on the shelf

the arrows on the ps uper cam indacates what #cly you are on arrow strait up addjust #1 strait right #3 strait down #2 and strait left is #4 i like them a bitt loose 0.020 mm intake and 0.025 mm exhaust factory is about 0.015 -0.020 mm the exhaust is the most important and is hard to get to i donot think it can be addjusted with cams in position. The one i did had to remove the head and grind down ends of valves to get the right clearance this was very involved and time consuming but it fixed it right up no more missfires and way smoother. for now just make shure it has enuff clearance and if it gives you a misfire code you know what cly to check first

check hub for wear where the iner berring rides on the hub if worn at all replace hub

do not mess with the addjusters the slack you see is on the axle to stub not the stub to diff i have put a oring between the axle and the stub thiss helps and on the justys i glue the axles onto the stubs with ultra grey as they have a problem being very slopy I have seen very loose axles on trans and no problems. Mess with diff preload addjuster and all betts are off thiss is just to sett the slack in the crown and pinion and to tight will fail have 10 broken deul ranges 4 are crown and pinon damage if it has all the gears and works good leave it alone

bad ground or burnt the starter also they had a aluminum +battery cable replace it with a copper one thiss helps the cca to get to starter

carefull have had many bent valves that did not look bent spin them in a drill and you will see or have them ground i have a valve grinder and you see a bent on right away when it up to the stone. I realy like the hastings rings no problems and have many new engines with over 100000kms on them 0 smoke /blowby

did the ig realy click ? did the feul pump cycle ? did the tach bounce ? at all is there 12 volts at the coil ? a non com with ecu could be ecu memery backup fuse failed or mian ground to body

while its out check mainshaft for play a little up and down ok any in and out is bad i also have a old drive shaft stub i put in the back to keep the oil from leaking out this helps. And make shure you lube the back side of the clutch fork pivot retainer may need some bending to get it to hold tight on pivot ball

the one i had was hitt in the front and must have had valves changed at some piont. What if it was set to tight from factory ? how long has it missed for. I did have a car with a cracked injector had a hairline crack and was shorting and giveing misfire codes on that hole. was a 02 outback

crank senser fault or main engine ground on intake have had 3or 4 bad crank senser latly no spark or meatal bitts have found the magnet on end of crank senser or broken timing belt. Do you here the ig realy turn on with key ? and feul pump realy should turn on and cycle have seen the odd ig realy go bad but whould have no check engine light. A no spark is ushaly the crank senser as it tells the ecu when to spark. The fans staying on could be bad coolant temp senser or ac default if ecu gos into default will turn fans on

engine takes 28 minutes and transs takes 26 minutes if your motor leaks at all pull it and do some resealing if no leaks pull the trans the trany i pulled yesterday in 01 outback i left the wheels on the car and pulled it front control arms to relase axles thiss makes it faster and dont have to fight ball joints then i take whole exhaust off one peice drive shaft bell bolts shifter. Mount as one peice save the top ps side bell bolt for last. I have a hoist and trany jack so its easy for me but i found lowering the trans with a cherrypicker and a long strap works very well and also works good for putting it back up.If you dont have a hoist and tranny jack

id use them make shure you reberring the engine as the berrings are way weaker on it than the rings and new rings will put more load on the rod berrings i use aftermarket rings all the time try to make shure they are made in japan. I do use alot of hastings rings and top line both seem to work fine. Also the drilled oil ring feed holes get pluged up must be cleaned out and if the pistons are scratched i knurll them or replace them or they will slap

also had a svx with a very worn preshure relif valve thiss airated the fliud badly and kept foaming over the top of resivor changed pump and problem was gone thiss happened right after i changed the rack out and was covinced it was a rack problem. But was the pump relif valve. I do see more shudder problems in the 99-05 eras i still blame a bad belt had one you could see the ps pully slow down and the alt and crank stayed the same speed is very diffacult to see but it happens

try a new belt have seen many slip on the ps pully when they get glazed if it slips at all will shudder

had a 02 wrx that the heads had been done and the valve clearances got messed up was to tight on #4#2 cly made it miss at idle and run rough on hyway had to remove the heads and reclerance the valves and problem was gone seems to be a wrx problem mabee the extra heat from turbo makes the exhaust valves get tight

yes but all the awd cases are in high demand and get rebiult is a shortage of working awd trans in theese parts. Had a 01 outback expanded rear diff and broken transfer gears yesterday was one of the worst iv'e seen.

yes both sides and yes were the dipstick gos into the engine block