NorthWet

The temp-rating of the thermostat really doesn't affect the flow, just when the flow occurs (disregarding the transient condition near its open point). A lower-temp thermostat can lower thermal-efficiency somewhat by keeping the coolant (and thus engine surfaces) cooler than designed. I think that the water pump is the least of the problems as regards coolant flow in a standard engine. Some of the passages in the EA82 make me wonder...

The "standard" definitions for DL and GL (not necessarily Subaru's) is DeLuxe and GrandLuxe.

Nice score! The "knock" could easily be just the HLAs. I have heard EA82s that sounded like they were going to come apart from "rod knock" that turned out to be just very noisy HLAs.

A couple comments about diesels... Having lived through the 70's diesel craze, I am not surprised that diesels are not popular today. A diesel engine should be built stronger (ie heavier) than a comparable-power SI engine, and due to the limited speed capability of current diesel designs, you need a larger, heavier-yet engine to match performance with a SI engine. Back in the 70's GM decided that all they had to do was slap different heads on their small-block V8 and it could be diesel. What a disaster. Since our fuels in the USA are minimally taxed (relative to most of the world), the price of diesel is pretty close to that of gasoline, and both are priced as market commodities. When the demand for diesel increases, either from motor fuel use, heating oil use, or both, then the price of diesel goes up. When a whole bunch of cars start using diesel, then the price increases pretty dramatically. This quickly wipes out any perceived cost advantage. There is only so much diesel fuel (or gasoline) that just "sits" in a barrel of crude oil, and if you want more from that barrel than you have to do more processing of the crude, and that processing uses material that would go to make something else, causing a reduction of supply of that distillate. So, commonly, to produce more diesel there is a drop in how much gasoline is produced, increasing the cost of both. CI engines really only have one thing going for them, and that is thermal efficiency, and it is something that SI engines cannot match. But they use a dirtier fuel (though use of supplimental propane can help this), and due to their greater thermal efficency, produce more of a difficult to control pollutant (NOx). Just a little reality check.

I have not found a Justy-specific manual, but I do have a Chilton's that covers most of the info that you have requested, plus more. Now, I don't care for Chilton's manuals, but any port in a storm... The manual is: #64302 Subaru Coupes/Sedans/Wagons 1985-96 Repair Manual I hope that this helps. If you want some specific info, let me know and I will get to you what I can.

I don't have a good diagram, just the 6-page one in my Haynes, and that is for an 82-83 EA81. But... It looks like the "L" connector just supplies a signal to the charge light on the dash, and the 5amp fuse is there just to protect the rest of the wiring in case the alternator electrically handgrenades. In other words, there is no "power" supplied by the fuse. IIRC, and this is based on decades-old knowledge of GM Delco alts, the charge-lamp wire/terminal connects to the center of the stator-"Y", and receives an alternating voltage (or at least varying DC) that is rectified externally to produce something resembling DC voltage which is used to buck the battery voltage. If this voltage is not present then the battery voltage flows through the lamp and lights it. I just found a test schematic in a Chilton's (Blech!) that seems to support my basic info (L goes just to lamp, fuse is unpowered except by L terminal). Good luck!

Are you still getting good mileage? If so, it is unlikely that compression is the issue. As SuBrat84 implied, you might want to check whether you have the right wire on the correct cylinder. Still, if you are still getting your good mileage, even this seems unlikely. Is your idle rough? Oh, another thought that I had last week (the last time I had time to think ): Is it possible that you have an intake manifold leak? If so, it could account for lack of change of idle after pulling sparkplug wires, and pinging. several ways of testing, one of which is to CAREFULLY!!! spraying carb cleaner around the manifold-to-head junction and seeing if the idle changes (try this on your 1-3 side for sure). Good luck, Alan! (BTW, I picked up the master cylinder Saturday. Haven't had time to do more than look at it yet. Let me know how much I owe you.)

Naw. F'n he wuz a rednek he wood half sed 2 leev da hood off an' juz leev da hood hinges stikin in to da air!

They make a gasket-remover spray that works pretty well.

I am glad that one of us could help you. I am even more glad that you got it home.

I am not nearby, so sorry. The o-ring on the waterpump inlet pipe OK? How about the heater-hose line near the waterpump? Was there a noticeable coolant-dye trail anywheres around the waterpump?

Others have talked about making one... basically, take a regular socket, cut it down to minumum depth, grind the top shoulder as much as you dare. Are they really that pricey? Maybe I should make up a few...

Turbo-superchargers are not significantly more efficient than mechanically driven superchargers, especially in an autox type of usage. And lag is not specific to turbos: A mechanically driven centrifugal supercharger (eg Paxton) would also exhibit lag. Go ahead and give it a try.

There are safety isssues with this method, in that a direct connect (user-switched, I assume) means that the pump will pump fuel regardless of situation or attitude (of the car, that is). This is a real fire hazard. I know that lots of people do it, but that does not mean it is a safe practice.

If you have a good ground, and if it does indeed spark when you try to connect 12v to the pump but still had no pump action, it is possible that the pump has seized. The spark indicates a completed circuit (though maybe "completed" to the ground connector... :-\ ), and if the pump has seized then the motor has stalled, drawing its max current. Just some very negative thoughts...

According to Chilton's (just as sucky), the timing marks are located at the "front" of the engine on the crankshaft pulley.

The only reasons that I can think of that the ECU would/could increase idle speed is if it was in "cold start" fast idle, or it thinks that an accessory (eg AC) is loading down the engine. Either way, it should be controlled by a solenoid, and maybe the solenoid could ...um... quit working... ???

"Distributer recurving" is no magic elixer. All it means is that the ignition advance "curve(s)" is/are altered to better suit the particular way the engine is set up. Most advance curves (profiles) are set to be conservative, trading off possible performance/economy gains in exchange for not worrying about engine damaging detonation. The big "hot tip" I have seen here is to use an FWD distributor instead of a 4WD distributor, the 4WD one being setup with an eye towards the vehicle being used in less than optimum situations and under higher loads. Torque and power curves are controlled mostly by how much air an engine can breathe, where in the RPM range it does so most efficiently, and over how broad a range the majority of this efficiency occurs.

Just to be a little contrary, I have experienced a less-common failure: The fan switch itself going bad. One of ours only works on "2" and "4"... unless you press in on the knob/shaft and then they all work. Just a thought.

It still may be related to the clock solder joints: Sort of a collusion between several problems of age manifesting in the clock's (mal)functioning. Definitely do what McBrat suggests, but if anyone wants to help decide if the clock itself does play a role in this problem, let's rework a clock and see if it helps.

I've been on both sides of the mechanic situation, and I can see both sides. But I would agree that more information should be acquired before making assumptions. As far as JDM goes, Berkeley/Emeryville area has many local importers, so it really isn't a "mail-order" situation there. Since I do my own wrenching, I never hesitated to go JDM import, as if there was a problem it was just a little of my time and a revisit to the importer. Regarding "turbo" transmission, IIRC the only significant fitment difference is the DOJ spline size/count. And I might think it cheaper to upgrade to the more robust axles than to R&R the tranny. Regardless, it would be helpful to have a few more facts.

Are you wanting to know thread size and pitch, or what socket fits the nut? (bump!)

Mine pressed out just fine. IIRC, I used a deep socket to push against the bushing. The problem I had was trying to press EA81 bushings into the EA82 control arms... the problem being that i didn't know that they were EA81 bushings! !@#@$% CSK!!!

Welp, I pulled the overheated engine out, and dropped one of my spares in... and then realized that my spare had 2 ASVs on it and the Brat had just one. AAARRRGGGHHH!!! Ok, so I still haven't figured out a way of removing that one, stupid, shrouded bolt that holds on the ASV adapter. Right now I am thinking crow's foot.. too bad I don't have any yet. Guess I will have to stop by Harbor Freight tomorrow. If that doesn't work (and if no one knows a magic way to remove that bolt), I guess that I will pull the oil pan and see if that gives a wrench enough room. Then I will find a different kind of bolt and replace all of those @#$%^&* ASV adapter bolts!!! Or... I could try my second spare engine, which I have never tried to run... or, I could just change the HG on the overheated engine, replace a couple scavenged parts, and hope that it doesn't need anything more immediately (the rear main is leaking a little for sure). This was supposed to have been a quick swap. :-\

I for one am glad that to have made the Pilgrimage to the First Subaru Church of the Resurrection. I remember it getting a large hunk of floor space cleared for a new-to-it addition. Paul, don't let things get you down too much over the coming days/weeks. Life does go on, just a little differently. And, like many others, I will be looking forward to the Reformed Subaru Church.