BoostedBalls

nothing beats CASTROL SUPER CLEAN. I get my engines hot and spray it all over the place. Then I fire the engine back up and let it cook a bit. After 5 minutes or so, I'll take the hose that is hooked up to my deepsink and blast hot water on the engine while it's still runing. I wouldn't use a pressure washer because it can really push water past otherwise tight seals. (wheel bearings, engine bearings, etc). The hose water is only 65psi as compared to over 1000 from a pressure washer. The Castrol is biodegradable and so is Simple Green, the Castrol is stronger though. I keep the engine running for a while after this to make sure everything gets evaporated out. If the engine dies while you are doing this, you will have a good indication of where you caused the problem. If you get some in the dist, take the cap off and let it dry. I would rather deal with wet connections than an engine fire on the freeway when all that build-up decides to light up.

looks like fiberglass packing from a muffler. I've seen that after a real good backfire from my first car. 1980 Chevette!

I know nothing about it...but I'm looking for something that will work good at idle and wide open. Megasquirt sounds like a lot of messing around to get it right but a lot of people are making big power with it.

Assuming the engine is runing well: You gotta slap a cat on for the test. If you are on a tight budget, a used one will probably work if you can see through the element. I would also get it down to 1/4 tank or less and put a couple cans of B-12 (I've never tried HEET) in the tank, then hot rod it a bit until almost empty and then get some good gas. I would also change the oil with 40 oil or thicker if your engine has lots of miles on it. This may help reduce blowby past the rings. And always the good highway blast right before the test is good. If these things don't get you to pass, there will most likely be fuel delivery or internal engine issues that need to be resolved. good luck! let us know how it goes!

I just aquired a 1986 XT turbo with pushbutton 4wd. I already have a 1987 RX turbo with dual range trans. I don't have titles for either one. XT: mostly straight body, interior needs a little help. Engine has good compression but the seller said it must have electrical problems. Chassis looks lowered. I haven't checked what gears are in it. RX: LSD, not straight body, interior is nice. Engine has cracked head/heads. Cracked windshield, XT6 sway bars, everything else is good. The purpose of the car is drags, rallycross and autocross. I never use the low range in the RX. I have a fresh engine to drop in either of them. I haven't measured the wheelbase and I'm likely to go with the shorter if they aren't the same. What do you guys think? I can't keep em' both, no room. I may strip one for parts or I might sell it. I really hated the XT body style but it's kinda growing on me.

Are you sure the extra metal ring isn't part of an old seal? I doubt you would have much oil pressure if the front main it walking out. Check out this diagram...I don't see any extra peice.

The starter is fully disengaged right? Might drop the starter and try turning the crank with a rachet, spark plugs out of course. This will rule out hydro lock and starter. Still stuck? Pull the timing belts and try rotating the cams to see if the valvetrain is seized. I wouldn't go dumping anything into the engine besides oil at this point. That's what you would do if the engine sat for a long time (years) and froze up. You might want to drain the oil and check for signs of bearing material. If you have rozen bearings and you free it up, things will most likely just more expensive.

I think a 50-70HP shot would be fine. As long as it's setup properly to come on only at WOT and above, say, 3000rpm.

You need NOS to do it right.

I would start by changing the gear oil in the trans, it might need it anyway. If the problem is still there, I would look at the full clutch setup. I just so happen to have a set that I took out after only a few races, still looks nice but I'm upgrading to an XT6 clutch because the stock ea82t clutch can't handle the boostedballs! ARRRR!

The BOV (blow-off valve) is the same as a bypass valve. I vent mine to atmoshere and it ran beautifully (before doing a WOT hillclimb with a 3" split in my radiator hose, cracked head now). I have not watched the A/F ratio but I'm sure it spikes rich for a second. I think that's a good thing if it's rich enough to "blow torch" inside the header between shifts to get that turbo spooled up more for the next gear. Pro rally cars use a similar idea but they sometimes have an injector that sprays fuel right into the header between shifts. I hear it's pretty hard on the turbo but I don't care, I want to haul arse!

I would pull the spark plugs and pressurize the coolant system through the reservoir. You might be able to hook up a compressor to the small hose and regulate your air pressure at 15psi or less. If you have gurgling noise from one of the spark plug holes it could be a head gasket! It could also be a crack in the exhaust port of one of the heads. <--- my $5 goes on the cracked head. You might drop the header pipe during the test to see if water drips out of one of the exhaust ports. I hope it goes well!

Thanks 211 for the insight. I always called it "bolt enlongation"; not sure where I came up with the term though. I've always retorqued my head bolts on anything that I would consider high performance, and always on copper gaskets. I've never had a HG fail that I've installed but that's not proof that the retorque kept them from blowing.

The Holley RED or BLUE pump is an affordable upgrade. The RED ones can be found on ebay for cheap. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOLLEY-CPH-110-RACING-FUEL-PUMP-DRAG-RACE-PRO-STREET_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQitemZ8027303395QQrdZ1

You don't need to vent the BOV back to the intake, you can vent it to atmospere if you slightly crush the canister until the idle smoothens out. This will allow it to seal tighter and allow you to run higher boost. Nothing beats an adjustable BOV but the package price you have is awesome, buy it!

If you have the wrong bulbs in the back of the car it can somehow make the lights stay on. I know this because I stuck the wrong bulb in just for late night drags and I had to pull the bulb out to kill the lights.

Yeah, silicone hose. It has a green outside and orange inside, Napa has it. This is one area that you don't want to cut corners. You can use the same kind of hose for the turbo oil drain.

OK- check this out man: Check header for cracks / rust holes and cracks near the weld points. If all looks good: Take the clip off the wastegate lever and wire the lever tightly to the front of the turbo so the poppet will stay closed for testing. A strong spring would work also. This will at least tell you if it is the problem or not. If it still won't make boost, I would take your down pipe off and check for a large crack going from wastegate hole to exducer hole. A lot of them are cracked and till work fine, problem is, the cracks get burned open to the point where you get the symptoms you are having.

Just a quickie. I got the stage 3 grind on my ea82t and it is an asymmetrical grind. Is the stage 2 street grind symmetrical or asymmetrical? If you don't know what I'm talking about, the cam lobe has a steeper incline on on the opening ramp and a gentle decline on the closing ramp. Who is running the stage 3 and what is it like?

It all depends on which ricer you are trying to kill. If you are looking to kill the "aluminum wing bolted to the trunk and unpainted fiberglass body kit with cut coil springs and big tach on the dash ricer", all you really need is an intercooler and boost controller set to about 12 or 13psi. Your stock engine, cams, and turbo should be enough to get you in the 13's with a good intercooler, exhaust and fuel management system. I did 14.2 with intake temp problems that my home-built intercooler couldn't control. With that fixed, it would be in the 13's for sure. If you are trying to kill the "I know my sh*t and I'm running a tuned turbo engine with stripped interior with limited slip front diff ricer" then good luck to you my friend. Sell the Subie and get a crotch rocket. There's a couple guys out here that are running 'budget' V-tecs in the low 11 second range on less than 20 psi of boost. If you really want to waste these guys, build up a WRX engine with all the goodies and a shot of NOS. I'm doing an all-out assault on an ea82t right now. If it doesn't get me in the low 13's or high 12's, it will be up for sale and I'll be installing a WRX engine.

I can help ya! I have a junk head that we can use to find out how deep we can drill. I have the tools and helicoils to retdo it also. Best bet is to pull the helicoil out and drill deeper and then JB weld the whole mess in there. Just need to make sure we spray enough brake cleaner up there to get all the oil out so the JB will stick. Then use antiseize on the STAINLESS or COPPER nut so we won't have to worry about spinning the stud when we tighten the nut. Also, lots of washers under the nut helps keep a constant force on the gasket. Is this a turbo car?

I overlooked the part about the studs going back in- I wouldn't pull the studs out and if you already did, I would make sure they are screwed in as far as they can go and I might even put some thread locker on them first. Then use antiseize compound on the nut so it won't tear the stud out next time you take it apart. You should be able to clean the surfaces up enough using a razor blade unless you drove it a lot with a blown gasket. The exhaust can actually burn away some of the sealing surface if it has a passage through the gasket. In that case, you are up a creek and you will need to pull the studs and use a belt sander to flatten out the surface.

I use the cheapy $3 ones from the local auto part store without problems. I like to stack washers up under the nuts to allow the studs to stretch more, thus holding more elastic force on the gasket. Just make sure the surfaces are clean- take a razor blade to the head surface and a file to the manifold surface. A belt sander is really the ticket for the manifold if you are careful. The scratchy texture is a good thing here. As long as both surfaces are flat and clean and you torque the nuts down EVENLY (meaning- snug one, then the other, then snug them more, then tighten them) You shouldn't have any problems.

I like my engine as naked as possible, it kinda turns me on. If you are getting rocks, mud and snow up there, you need a batter skid plate anyway! I run without them on my ea82t so I can keep an eye on my belts. Plus, it's easier to steam clean the engine with them out. If you've ever had a Car-B-Q, then you know why I do this. I didn't put the covers back on my wife's EJ22 after belt a swap and the engine is MUCH louder now. They obviously dampen a lot of valvetrain noise. They will go back on with the next belt change.

Could it be anti-seize compound? Maybe someone put it in there for some reason??? It does transfer current through it, I use it on all of my spark plugs.