idosubaru

read the keycode off one of the lock cylinders in the door (really easy to do) and they can cut you a new key from that. remove two screws, pop the interior door trim panel off and you can see the lock cylinder. takes like a screwdriver to get it out, that's about it as far as i can remember. was really easy to remove. if you try hard enough you might even be able to see the 4 or 5 digit code without removing it. either way, that code is all you need. in the states, the dealer usually enters the VIN and key code with the sale of every car (at least that's how they used to do it back then). unless the salesman was lazy and didn't enter that in, a phone call to the dealer can often get you the key code with just the VIN number. i've done that on a number of occassions. might be different since you're in another country, but i'd call that's the easiest solution.

wagon rears will work fine for sure. don't know about fronts, but i'd guess they would.

i'm out of state but pretty sure i have an EA82 air compressor lying around somewhere. almost positive their the same. remind me next week and i'll have a look to see if i can find the EA82 compressor.

if you're worried about snow, get snow tires they are excellent. i'd get them and go from there if you want "more". they should treat you quite well though. EA82T, good power (easy to modify for good gains), gas mileage and the 4WD yo'ure looking for. you can get a dual range if you'd like that option. the XT6 has 6 cylinders and 4 wheel drive. has the center diff lock button, excellent in the snow. 145 horsepower, alot more than the EA81 and EA82's, center diff lock (awesome offroad and in the snow), and gets 26-28 mpg on the highway! excellent stats for a 6 cylinder and the reliability of the EA82 since it's based on the same design (same pistons, rods, bearings, valves, etc). the automatic XT6 even gets 28 mpg (all highway). you want to be able to lock front to rear (center diff). you can install a switch on any automatic, so any automatic 4EAT could be installed with a switch to lock the rear transfer clutch, giving you a "locked" 4WD front to rear. i have that with rear LSD on my automatic XT6 and it rocks in the snow. add snow tires and you're golden. there's never a substitute for safe driving in the snow...except maybe tracks!

the same can be said of brakes, changing your own tires, and other car repairs. all are safety concerns. for windshields, most people shouldn't, i won't do it and it's great to have you around knowing the details and difficulty of this job. but there are skilled people out there that can do the job right. we need you to post the trickery of this task to sway those that shouldn't! i like reading through these discussions to learn the process and how people do it....BBQ grill and sand...awesome!!

any chance the tires don't match....like different size? very weird to keep going through that. i'd install an aftermarket transmission cooler. very easy and very cheap, i do it to all of my automatics. does the boat have a 8 inch thick cast iron hull?

Auto AWD XT6 6 (6 cylinder) 28mpg Manual AWD XT6 25/26 mpg those are highway numbers. 21-23 city driving. search the older generation forum for "mileage" and you'll get lots of old threads like this, check 'em out. i just did! if you want straight gas mileage you can't beat the late 80's/early 90's FWD EA82's. i had a 1988 or 89 XT FWD Manual Trans in the early 90's that would get 40+ mpg on all highway driving. i think justy's can work their way up to 45, saw a guy said he got 46 and change in his.

thanks! i'll call him and tell him not to guy another car until i get a chance to look at it.

a guy at work has a 1993 legacy and the door won't unlock. feels like it's stuck, so i'm guessing linkages and not the lock cylinder? ignition, trunk other doors work fine. anyone know what to look for? i've seen all the plastic fittings and arms in there on my subaru's and don't know what to look for. he's thinking of buying another car...so reply quick!

that's hysterical if it's true. those manuals are usually overboard, but so are recommendations i see here on the board (and have given!!!!), but doesn't make it all bad!

i was quoted $220 for a new windshield and i think others at http://www.xt6.net got it done for $177 from Safelite maybe? i don't know, they had a thread over there about pricing, was under 200.

5 spoke! if you wanted 10 spoke, don't meet me tonight!

subaru alternators are super easy. get a box of sockets/wrenches and go to town.

sometimes it's beneficial to unbolt the intake from the block, hold the intake up enough to pull block and drop another in and yo'ure done. two new intake manifolds later and you didn't have to disconnect the throttle cable, disconnect hoses, wires, grounds, sensors, etc. probably works out to about the same either way, i've done it both ways.

there's some good information on the site about doing it yourself, do a search. new usually isn't that bad. you can find one used and have it installed for 50-100 bucks as well. i have a parts car and will be paying someone else to install the windshield into my daily driver instead of doing it myself. be sure to check if temperature matters and you have a sufficiently heated area to install it in, the urethane may need to be above a certain temp. some say this is a serious safety hazzard, i think it's just a PITA like mentioned earlier so i'll pay someone 90 bucks to do it and be done with it.

i tried it myself on XT6 heads. it's not that bad of a job, just time consuming which you say you don't care about. there's a fair amount of casting flash in the intake ports that can easily be cleaned up. have a good die grinder available, cheap ones take really really long to get anywhere. you're not looking for radical design changes in the ports, just cleaning up rough casting flash and gasket matching. proper higher level porting jobs where you change the ports would require bench flow testing to make sure you are equally changing all the ports. i posted before and after pictures at xt6.net. i'd also check the intake manifold gasket where it meets the head, on the XT6 the gasket was much smaller than the actual ports, so the gasket essentially blocks the passage. the EA82 isn't much different from the XT6 (same design) so i'd look at this as well. i posted pictures of the gasket covering the intake ports on the heads before and after i cut the gaskets down to match. a valve job is a good idea, no point in trying to make power on questionable valve seating and valve seals. if you don't want to do that, make sure the cylinders hold pressure. if you don't want to go through an entire head job, at least install the heads and do a leak down test on them before going any further. make sure there's no leakage through the valves before proceeding. the risk is that if there is leakage then you'll waste the head gasket to pull the head and have the valve fixed. but if it tests fine then you avoided the head work and $150 ish charges for that. if you can weld, install a turbo and run very low boost. i'd probably look to buy a small turbo before going with delta cams if you can do the exhaust work yourself. or do both if you can afford. turbo is so much easier to get power out of. get a good running engine and a low boost turbo. delta cams, exhaust, intake is all nice but NA is hard to work with for power. i have an XT6 and i think even that is a waste of time trying to get more power out of, not much return for the time/money. turbo is the only option now for me, besides good tune up and a good running motor.

if you're sliding then i'd blame the tires or driving before the AWD. if the tires aren't sticking i don't think any type of FWD or AWD is going to aid you nearly as much as skilled driving or better tires. i'd look into a good set of snow tires. i am much better at coming out of a slide with AWD than FWD. i'm either used to the AWD now that i almost always drive them or the AWD is better in those types of situations or a little of both. i'm not a racer so i'd lean towards the AWD being much better in coming out of slides.

used hubs for $45 1800 358 8770

great price for an excellent job on having everything done. good post, that will be good information for others with these issues. oil pump requires timing belt removal, so doubtful you'll want to pay for that job any time soon.

i don't have any explanation on the wiring, but you can have a look. look at the O2 sensor on the car and/or look at the wiring harness for the O2 sensor to see how many wires/pins it has. make sure the one you get from the store or order has the same amount. you could also stop by the dealer and have them pull one out for your car, look at the wiring and go buy it elsewhere. i think i've heard of most people on here talking about 3 wire sensors, so that's probably correct.

i agree with replacing the O2 sensor first. i wouldn't replace the cat converter just yet. had they replaced the cat it probably would have fixed the problem because they would have installed a new O2 sensor with it. i'd probably go to a different mechanic too. head gaskets can last a long time while leaking. they can also fail. i've seen dodge neon's (the older ones go through headgaskets on a regular basis) and older subaru's go many 10's of thousands of miles on slowly dripping head gaskets. in two different cases i put 30,000 or more miles on a leaking headgasket before i finally replaced it and they never failed completely. one was leaking internally and the other was external. the internal leak, i still have the head and would post a picture if i could, but there was significant wear of the head for a very small area where the leak was occurring. it is repairable but i just replaced with a new head since i have extra motors. this is not recommendable but i would choose this option before getting a new car payment (not that i'd ever buy a new car, but if i had too do that.) surely each case is different, but my external leak never got worse, just a few spots of green on the cross member (under the motor) every now and again. neither cases had oil/coolant mixing. the internal leak did eventually get worse very quickly, the external leak never got any worse before i repaired it after a long time of waiting. best bet is to replace the gasket of course. if it starts to get hot though you better quit driving or it will blow in short order. my coolant system is typically in excellent shape so i keep my cars running cool. the heads do not need to be removed to inspect the valve clearance. i believe the dealer charges quite a bit for this.....$300 or something.

my friend hosed his crank pulley on his toyota in florida (someone didn't reinstall it properly). i looked up machine shops on Yahoo Yellow Pages in his area in florida (i'm in maryland). i called around until i found one that said they'd take a look at it. the dealer and one other shop quoted him thousands of dollars to replace the motor just because of a bad crank pulley. BS. it is fixable, you just need to find someone willing to fix it. after about the 3rd phone call i got a guy that was willling to have a look and seemed like a good guy. $500 later and he saved his truck and buttloads of money. i'd suggest contacting a few machine shops, show them pictures if you have too if it's not driveable. have fun, gary

there is some dyno information here, but not a ton. do a search for dyno and see what you come up with. myxphlyx has done a good bit of dyno's with intakes and exhaust and so has WJM, with varying setups. i removed the a/c compressor and didn't notice anything while driving in terms of gas mileage or power. (on an XT6).

the XT and XT6 are two very different animals for lifting. the XT being an EA82 platform can utilize the EA82 lift kit. the XT6 can not. the front struts, suspension, hubs and other things are different. if you want to put together you're own custom kit you're golden, but if you're looking for something to bolt up the XT kit will not work for the XT6. i talked to AAA about supplying XT rear lift items and EJ series (impreza) stuff for the front in the hopes that would work since impreza struts can fit on the XT6....but that wouldn't work either for some reason. i forget why, but you could find the AAA thread (it's a long one) about the christmas group buy and see commentary there. good luck and post pictures, i for one would hope it's an XT6!!

you learned first hand what i was telling you earlier in this thread. glad you're finally getting it taken care of. if the attorney is good this will be a breeze for you. a bad attorney is typically lazy, not aggressive and doesn't have much initiative. you'll get reimbursed but it'll take forever. they balked and now they're going to pay for not trying to deal with you honestly and straight up. have no sympathy.