idosubaru

+1 same as EA82T highly unlikely, you're probably talking about a manual trans, but if it's an automatic the stub shafts just pop right out, only held in place with a circlip, and they can be swapped easily.

in the US - 97 and 98 Outback transmissions are interchangeable. even if the donor engine has an 8 bolt belt housing it'll still bolt right up to your 4 bolt 1997 bellhousing. the only issues are: 1. final drive ratio - all 1990's outbacks are 4.44 so that's good 2. Phase I and Phase II - all 1995-1999 Outbacks are Phase I electronics so plug and play.

options: swap the transmission. steamboat springs has one for $150 for a 1981 Hatch: 970-879-8178 do you mean "it's stuck in 4th" or the shifter will physically only go in 4th gear. i'm not sure there's much practical difference as i'm not a trans expert, but i have a time or two seen a car stuck in gear that was the fault of the clutch...maybe i wasn't trying hard enough but a new clutch has fixed a shifter that won't come out of gear. VWtech - you're not going to have time for transmission R&R between all those ECU reflashes are you?! lol

Oil cooler post is 24mm deep socket. Crack smokers, be nice to not need one size for one part - should have just made it 22mm like the crank bolt.

Interference engine - if the belt breaks you'll have bent valves...not good and that will hurt your wallet and schedule far more than what you're currently dealing with. If it was a non-inteference engine i'd say it's totally worth taking a chance in yours shoes. I'd pony up the few extra dollars for Gates or something name brand. If you can wait a few days I can check I think I might have a belt I can send you for $20 - probably a Gates.

I'll be interested to hear what others have to say about this crumpling. I've got some crumpling in a rear I might be fixing soon. Couple options on the frame issue. Call/ask around for a frame shop and see what they charge to straighten it. They can yank that out, but prices will vary wildly based on local market and options. $500 minimum I would think. Another option - just ignore it or get it out as much as you can with porta-powers or winches/pulling against a tree. Or dont' pull it at all - and bolt the fender/bumper up. I've had some where the very front/corner was squished some - bolt the fender up and maybe the front hole doesn't line up...but who cares? it looks totally fine externally I just can't insert the front corner fender bolt, which is entirely benign as long as the fender, hood, and bumper line up. My goal is that the fenders, hood, and bumpers line up and have reasonable gaps that aren't noticeably off. That's usually fairly easy to get on minor impacts like this.

And what brand headgasket was used? The factory service manual calls for the headgaskets to be retorqued. I'm not sure if that matters, is OEM gasket specific only, or really matters though...

Are you loosing any coolant (besides what boils out when it overheats)? For instance, what would happen if you did this: 1. as soon as it starts to run hot, pull over. 2. let it cool down 3. check coolant level in radiator and overflow tank. I'd like to know if the overheating is caused by, related too, or completely independent of coolant level. When it's starting to run hot - pull over and look in the overflow tank - are there bubbles? I've never seen that symptom on older gen's but it's common in newer gen.

go somewhere else - i've never heard of someone not installing Blizzacks on a subaru. that's absurd. just call first if you're worried about wasting your time. Tri-County tire installed snow tires on my families Subaru's up here in Canton. Don't know if they do Blizzacks or not, but give 'em a call. best - get Nokians. they'll retain excellent winter traction over 5-7 years, instead of 2-5 like lesser/cheaper brands. But they are exceptional in traction and their ability to retain it over the long term and tread wearing. I'm in Canton, OH frequently, I'm here right now actually (Massillon to be exact) - it is so easy to drive here i wouldn't much worry about brand. It is so flat, roads are straight, never/rarely get blizzards, it's like the Disney World of snow driving. the difference between sliding out of control here where you let off the gas and will eventually stop to mountainous driving where you wont' stop until you hit a tree if you start sliding is orders of magnitude difference in the OH CRAP factor. If I lived here - depending on my job and situation I'd get really good all seasons and not even bother with snow tires, or I'd probably keep snows on just one, not all of my family cars. In any event, I woudln't worry too much about "best" - but Nokians are hands down the best if that's really what you want.

There's an access hole under the passengers side rear seat you can access the brake lines through. I splice in new lines there and then snake it to the flex hose at the brake caliper. If you don't want to do the splicing you can always run the line and just ask a shop or friend to do the final fitting together of pipes for you. Drive around with your parking brake and be cautious, it will blow out entirely and you'll need extra space/time/safe driving to get around with just the rear ebrake.

This. When the leak first starts it's not even a hole like you'd think - it's layers of rust and the fluid finds it's way through it, seeping. Eventually it'll blow a hole in it and then you'll loose brakes entirely, spurting and flowing out and enough fluid will come out that it runs down the side of the gas tank and you'll see it. For now, it's just slowing seeping and collecting on top the gas tank.

Are you having any issues shipping it, or that's working out pretty good? Friends of ours in Haiti run a large organization and another friend lived there like 20+ years.

Install a new knock sensor, they fail so rarely that i consider that a good $10 addition to any car you want another quite a few reliablie miles/years out of. Clean the idle air control mechanism. Full size spare Thoroughly clean and regrease with Silglyde or high end caliper grease. The permatex and other stuff doesn't last as long and if it's been out east it's not easy on those slides out here. Two parts I routinely consider - fuel pump and alternator. They leave you stranded if they fail, OEM is really expensive, and aftermarket aren't that reliable or hard to source. Maybe do what I did in college - send them a used alternator and fuel pump or keep them in the spare tire compartment. Subaru had new remann'ed for that car for like $60 - $80 years ago - like a 1996 models due to a recall I think. Now I just try to replace those items once - I installed a new OEM Subaru H6 alternator on my 2002 OBW at like 200,000 miles, but I found someone selling one cheap so I got lucky. It's at 240,000 miles now and I want to install a Subaru fuel pump - i'll likely get a new one ($$$$) or low mileage used unit

catastrophically overheating - that's bad. might be more wrong with it now than before. clogged radiator. test it - run a garden hose through it and see how much comes out compared to what goes in. are the cooling/radiator fans coming on? do you see white smoke coming out of the exhaust? were the heads pressure tested? drop the exhaust manifolds and see if there's cooling coming through the exhaust ports. EA82T's don't have coolant lines going to the turbo right? was this a craigslist special you bought with coolant and oil blown all up through the crank case, PCV, and intake hoses and saturating the filter - before you repaired it? the engine might be suspect.

If you can't do the work - get the check and orchestrate the repair yourself. With a small amount of legwork organizationally that thing can easily be fixed and run forever without a hitch. I've done a bunch like that.

yes pulleys are the same or interchangeable. water pump is also interchangeable. tensioner is the same too.

No kidding, probably an inside job, dealers never sell stuff that old and if they do they know what it's worth. At that price you might see it with fresh oil changes and brakes for sale again soon.

As for repair - this is so easy. I've done tons of these. Replace the oil filter and front corner light and it's drivable - for $50 it'll run another 100,000 miles. From there it just depends how perfect you want it to look. Easy repair that makes it look good: 1. replace the bumper and fender - the damage is so light that this is all you'd need to get it back to nearly 95% original lines....probably even higher. I don't see that being bad enough that anything wont' line up . The llines won't be perfect, but new fender and bumper will bolt up just fine with no overlap. Some of the lines may be uneven if you're a perfectionist - the p/s fender/hood gap will be smaller than d/s so to speak. If you want to get restore some of the lines - do a little bit of pulling if necessary - pull that front corner forward - takes less than an hour to attach a winch, come along, or even use a tree and reverse in the vehicle to pull back. Wrap a tow strap or chain or cabling and attach it effectively to pull as necessary - either points or wrapping larger portions....depending.

That's totaled for sure, 100%.. It looks like oil on the ground, not power steering fluid. My guess is the oil filter got crushed and spewed it's entrails on the ground. But you have a few options: 1. if it's her fault you can literally get the insurance to do anything you want (within reason). What people don't realize is this is totally up for negotiation - the insurance is liable and you don't have to accept their recommendations or offers. People don't understand how this works at all - they are liable for damages, period. "Totaling" a car is just a convenience for them and it's simply a business model/system that works and most people agree with. But that is irrelevant and has nothing to do with the law, that's not their legal responsibility. They're legal responsibility is only liability to repair damages rendered during the accident - period. And you have a say in the matter. A friend of mine did it in his 1980's car that wasn't worth anything. he wanted to keep it, had put tons of care and maintenance and rebuilding into the car and consistently told the insurance pay for it since the accident wasn't his fault and assured him that had to be better than getting a lawyer involved...in proper terms. Of course it took some effort - because they're not used this, it probably confused the first 3 people he talked to, who would never understand wanting to keep a 1980's vehicles, but he got it done with consistently telling them what he wanted/expected. the insurance rebuilt his car, no lawyer involved. a lot of people aren't up for negotiation like that though. 2. total it and fix it yourself or keep for parts. ask the insurance what the buyback amount is. here is how buyback works: a. they total it - which means essentially they're buying the car from you b. you ask them the buyback amount - they say $300. this means you give them $300 and keep your car. c. you then get a salvage title. *sometimes if you move through the process quickly and get lucky they don't give you a salvage title , you fix it and move on. * if you get a salvage title then you check with your state how to recertify it. in WV it's SUPER easy - literally they don't even drive the car. they sit in the drivers seat, turn the key on to make sure all the ABS, SRS, CEL, AT lights come on - then start the car and make sure the airbag light goes out. it's crazy. literally less than 1 minute and my salvage car is back on the road. MD is more thorough - but involves the police only to make sure it's not mismatched VIN's, rebadged stolen goods. 3. tell the insurance adjuster you'd really like to keep the car from getting totaled. they can run the numbers right up to their 75% value or whatever for totaling - which won't be much - $500 - $1000 for that car. then they can add in various rental car and even a few other damage related items - i forget what they call them - that adds to your claim check but doesn't count towards the percentage of totaling cost. I had the same thing happen 2 years ago in my 1988 XT6 - old lady pulled out in front of me and i tboned her - identical in nearly every way - age, speed, etc, but mine did fair better than yours. It helped that the adjuster was really good, nice and i'm totally comfortalbe in situations like this - but i filled him in that i would keep the car and hoped to keep this simple, avoiding buyback and totaling if possible, just so i didn't have to deal with the salvage, title work, inspection. I filled him in that i'm a Subaru guy, have owned an XT for 20 years, moderate an online forum, and had this car shipped from CA to have a rust free one in WV - which might not otherwise exist - i don't know if i've seen an XT6 in WV since I moved here 9 years ago...except for one I helped a friend get. anyway, he totally got that and wanted to help me. I think he respected I just wanted my car fixed, didn't need to get a lawyer involved or compensated. he stopped adding when it was just about totaled and told me he'd give me every additional dollar he could above and beyond that...which I was surprised at how much he was able to add. unless you're doing the work yourself or know someone who can do some reasonably inexpensive work, you'll need to just get rid of the car or go for option #1.

yeah i think it's just the inner joint of the SVX rear axles - arent' they longer, two stepped or something? gotta be a simple way to do what bushwick just said - like EJ rear diff and EJ rear axles and done.

subaru, junk yard, classified forum here, plenty of us have junk EJ engines sitting around. opposed forces and http://parts.subaru.com/ for part numbers and pricing

too late but yes you can install the engine and trans together at the same time, i've done it even on piggy H6's with auto's. need a little more space to maneuver the lump in the air.

Ask a local performance shop to build you an "XYZ" hp engine. Or, how big and how much? Make that decision then you can answer questions. Break everything down to "per cylinder" to simplify. Read all the 4 cylinder builds and ball park everything by a proportional 3/2: (6 cylinders/4 cylinders = 3/2). IE: 2005 an EJ25 makes 165hp. divide by 2 and you get 41.25 hp per cylinder. multiply by 3 and you get 247.5 hp....or....nearly identical to what your EZ30 makes with that you can extrapolate lots of information about what you want, what others have done and what trigger points there are for various compression, hp, and boost numbers. At XX compression you need... At YY hp you need... At ZZ boost you need.... and more...

SJR Higuys and some others that are members on here as well.

oh wow, rust strikes again. i've had ABS sensors shear off, i'm surprised the bolt came out if it's that bad. next time you need a Subaru - seriously buy an oldie but goodie from out west/down south and you'll be amazed. subaru reliable and easy to maintain, no rust. i bought two XT6's from out west and i must be one of two people in WV with 1980's rust free Subaru's with original exhaust that are a breeze to work on.