idosubaru

2013 Crossteks have extended Subaru factory warranties to 10 years 100,000 miles for the CVT and oil consumption issues. So the Crosstek should have 1-2 years of factory warranty left on the engine and CVT. Or it could potentially already have a new engine and CVT from Subaru in it. I would double check that that year Crosstek qualifies for those two extended warranties, and that my 10 year/100k is correct, I'm working off memory. As soon as you get the car - start using heavier weight oil - 5w-30 or 10w-30 and not that 0W stuff. And change the CVT fluid immediately. Subaru says "lifetime fluid" but that's nonsensical. If you're intent on retaining documentation and that 100k warranty then i'd stick to Subaru's recommend oil viscosity of 0W or whatever it specifies until the warrant runs out. Although I wouldn't do that, but that's a more wise one-size-fits-all solution for the masses.

I'd go with Subaru over mazda...but this is a Subaru forum so let's give some reasons. I don't think Mazda's are top rated longevity monsters, though I'm not saying they're terrible. But I don't think those early year 2013 Crosstek's with first year CVT and FB's are the cream of the crop. How confident are you maintaining or being involved in any future repairs with Mazda or Subaru? If you're more experienced on one manufacturer, or your favorite shop is, you might lean that direction. For instance, all else being equal I'd favor the Crosstek simply because I know Subaru's so much better than Mazda's and think I can navigate online Subaru forums better (they're excellent). Even if I didn't work on that vehicle I'd be much more comfortable talking to dealerships and have a wealth of friends/acquaintances to ask questions. Support (info, repair, maintenance, shop familiarity, local dealer trust worthiness) is key in relaibilty too. I think I favor the financial aspect the most here: Looks like you're getting a roughly $2k better deal for being a year older on the Crosstek. That age difference is meaningless and the crosstek will probably retain it's value better over time like the Baja because they're so distinctive. I'd almost pull the trigger on the Crosstek for those two reasons alone - consider that $2,000 savings a repair fund for any future surprises, and also the distinctive value retention of the Crosstek. In more general terms, here's what I would do (and have done I'm probably approaching 100 vehicles I've bought or helped people buy): 1. If you're in a rust prone area that's old enough to start incurring issues - I'd check all rear exhaust flanges, muffler welds/seams, hanger welds, and see if surface, or other, rust is starting. That's usually where it starts to show. I'd let the rust be a major factor if: A. everything else seems equal, B. you live in an area with rust issues. 2. I've had good luck calling (or visiting) 2-3 Subaru dealers service departments in the home zipcode of the vehicle (you can usually figure out where it resided prior to sale by searching the VIN) and ask for the service records. I've had them print it all out and hand it to me before with on questions asked. Granted I've got some practice working with people and Subaru's and dealerships so that probably helps with comfort/success rates. To bad you can't add Subaru's 120k/120 month warranty onto that crosstek, that would be sweet....

Without the OB spacers they are quite tight to get in 2” on top of the strut. I don’t know any tricks except giving it lots of effort. I’ve pushed the strut inwards while partially lifting under the control arm to compress the strut in order to shorten the distance and angles of the CV. Once it gets partially compressed the knuckle will pivot in and the strut bolts will line up. But I doubt others have done that I had a similar problem with a 2” lift and tried many axles and they all did the same thing you’re describing on one side of the vehicle but not the other. I doubt you’ll have that issue though as I seem to be the only one lol Many on here have installed lifts so I’d ask a lift question rather than an axle question to get them to bite. what lift - are you sure it’s 2” and installed correctly - it should be offset to account for camber.

Yes. There’s one head and block combo that needs thicker headgaskets or the pistons and valves will touch but I think that happens with the earlier 96-98 EJ25 blocks.

None that would make any difference between interchanging them from one to another. They’re interchangeable all day long.

No.

Hmm. No idea. I’ve seen individual cheap scanners not want to access an ECU with no rhyme or reason. But it’s not usually Subarus and it doesn’t seem like that’s your issue if it’s multiple scanners and the same vehicle.

In your other post you indicate you have no battery nor any inclination or opportunity to get power to it to unlock the shift lock button. Does it have power now? What type of power does your powered OBD scanner have? You're positive those scanners work on other vehicles? What fuses interrupt power to the OBD port? Maybe there's a fuse that can depower the OBD port but not the ECU or your powered unit is somehow backfeeding the ECU?

That’s too bad. unfortunately used H6s are prime candidates for dumping for sale due to the way they easily sneak through with mild and “unconventional” symptoms Burp it. New coolant and burped will take care of that. But it’s the headgaskets. Before filling radiator run a garden hose through it and make sure it can pass the water (not clogged). Sometimes that’s nicer to do off the vehicle if you don’t mind pulling the radiator. Or get a new radiator. New cap and tstat can be tried now and transferred to new engine. Exhaust gas analyzer will give you a positive result when the combustion test kit doesn’t.

That’s the way to go. New plugs and serpentine pulley bearings and 100k here you come.

Good job finding that bent arm. Not always easy. Hopefully that helps the traction and tire wear Tires. Alignment. The end. There are differences in AWD, and they can get old and lazy, but almost 100% of performance issues I see are tire related. Cheap tires, old tires, warn tires, alignment… Cheap tires degrade in performance by year two even if they have full tread. The materials degrade quicker than good tires. Some real sucky tires will show cracking at two years like an average tire will get from sitting out in full sun for 5 years. Most people know so little about tires but think they know….that they’re guesses about performance are wrong. They blame the trans, the brakes, the model, the engine, the brand….it’s the tires. They’re so confident they know tires they think it can’t be…..and it ends up being the tires. Wash rinse repeat. All the time . Even “car” people and DIY and shop owners families are wrong all the time, people who are so sure they know tires install brand new Nokians or Michellin snow tires with a good alignment and it’ll perform great. Seen it so many times id almost bet money on it. You’ve already mentioned alignment issues and lower grade tires. The transmission isn’t even a talking point with what we know so far.

Cancerous rust. That needs hospice care not repair. Plan a funeral not a fix There’s far more rust in that car even if you can’t see it. It’s there. Trying to repair it cheap just for the intent of selling it is not dignified or conscientious. Lets assume you’re okay fooling and tricking someone into buying a car they shouldn’t, or don’t, want. It’s a heinous repair. If it’s that rusted, more needs cut out to have good metal to attach a new piece to. then you’ll have to cut out a piece from a yard (hours of hellish work snd most locals might have rust too) or find one somewhere. Clean up and weld that in and hope your rear wheel alignment isn’t trash. It’s a horrible time consuming job. “Weld it in” makes it sound way too simple. I’d rather rebuild an engine than do that job. “ Easy” way is to fashion a ghetto steel channel across the back of the interior of the car -across the top of the two strut mount areas inside the vehicle and then space it down to bolt the strut too.

I have no idea. Sounds like clutch/cable/fork related to me, but this kind of stuff doesn't happen enough for me to have any statistically meaningful feedback. If it was a transmission issue I'd think you'd feel or hear noises like synchros crunching/grinding or bearings/diff whine/clunk/etc. But I've never seen what a MT Subaru trans does when it's run out of gear oil so I don't have any reference for that. I'd wonder if you can find someone who's destoryed a trans due to oil starvation and see what the symptoms were?

How do you know it's not the clutch? If clutch is fried it won't go into gear either. How "dry" was it - completely empty? It doesn't go into any gear? The cable and fork are moving in and out properly with the clutch pedal? Have you tried putting it in every gear and jamming the stick in hard? What happens if you try to turn the wheels/axle by hand (or with tools) - will they turn (ebrake off)? if both front axles turn with no play/noise, then the front diff should be fine. But there's still the gears and synchros. I'd guess maybe the synchro's are smoked due to lack of fluid. You could drain the fluid and see if you get chunks, sparklies, how much, or nothing in the fluid. Check fluid carefully in a pan/with some white cloth.

I think some folks have had their tanks reconditioned. Sounds like a PITA but maybe worth a look?

Hopefully a brake line should be straight forward and quick with no surprises.

Oh my sorry. That’s poor timing. How do you go anywhere this week? Both Subarus then appear to be down due to rust? Not helpful when you’re stuck but consider next Subaru from west or south. It’s some leg work but you’ll save yourself hours of work, parts, downtime and $ in the long run. So worth it.

Those intake manifolds have a coolant passage and weak gasket area - they can dump coolant right into the block and look like catastrophic internal coolant issues. If that's the case you just need new intake manifold gaskets. Or new headgaskets. What does "leaking from the block" mean? Diagnose it and you have options to repair. Right now you're just guessing.

Besides dust and debris falling in your ears, eyes, nose - they are easy to swap. And widely available used. Don't let a diff hinder you. Or get studded snow tires and run it FWD LOL.

I'd move on. You know more will be rusted then fuel tank. Get a rust free one from out west/south. If it still runs and drives then sell it - sadly our areas are accustomed to rust and someone will likely pay for a running and driving A to B vehicle. You already know those diffs are a dime a dozen - swap a used one in if you somehow navigate that rusty tank/straps. You could probably find some other steel straps to fish up through there to hold it.

I just got back from Colorado yesterday. Good trip. Cops consistently in small towns, particularly the small towns not by the interstate.

How much does your trailer and bike weigh? I think you’re worried about tongue weight too much unless you’re towing this thing weekly and traversing steep Colorado mountain passes in the best of summer and blizzard of winter. The tongue weight has massive safety margin built into it and so far you’re talked about very small numbers. you an also reduce tongue weight - load distribution, height of ball, etc. If, on the other hand the amount/terrain and frequency of towing and weight are such that you need to worry about those small differences the that car is a poor towing choice no matter what you do. But yes a custom co figuration with increased mounting points would be wise

There are different ends for axles but I don’t know if it always means different boots. It starts to get confusing for sure but I’d search for old threads comparing the different EA axles, that are interchangeable, but have different joints.

XT6 trans is just an EA82 transmission with EA82 turbo trans axles splines and xt specific final which won’t matter on FWD. Any EA82 transmission. Turbo is easiest so you don’t need to deal with inner axle inner cups. only an xt (4 or 6) manual trans center console will accept the shifter and interior in stock form if you want it finished properly and not hacked up. instrument panel doesn’t need swapped to run and drive but just for completeness/aesthetics like to get rid of P-R-N-D auto specific indicators No kits. No market price on something this old and uncommon. Prices usually aren’t high but vary wildly since demand and supply are small. $200-$400 for the trans but can vary XT6s require a specific flywheel and pressure plate - I can’t recall if the difference is on the engine bellhousing side or trans side and if you can use an EA82 plate but people usually want xt6 stuff and the flywheels aren’t easy to come by. And XT center console to accept the shifter. It’s been a long time but I think the cruise control computers need swapped as well if you want that to work. squeaking belt - stethoscope will nail it. If the belt has never been changed then it’s a good guess. you’ve had this car for sale before right ?

I wouldn’t pay that premium price unless you can verify some timing belt or head gasket history Keep in mind - There’s no meaningful difference between the engine and trans and struts and brakes between 108k and 140k on a car that old so don’t pay a premium just for the mileage numbers to be lower. Lower mileage matters on a collectible or newer car, like 2017, but not a nearly 20 year old car. By that age the mileage isn’t a reliable indicator of the mechanical systems 1. It needs a new timing belt kit - belt and pulleys (one pulley in particular). *not just the belt*. Most shops don’t replace the (that) pulley. if the belt or a pulley fails you’ll need a new engine or $$$$$ valve job and you’ll end up $10,000 in the hole on this car. Not worth it. It’s an easy job (2 hours) and $300-$700 at a shop. Use subaru parts only 2. Also headgaskets - check condition and maintenance history or for signs of any recent coolant work that suggest they’re chasing an issue. Many have already been replaced - fit me out by who and try to determine if it was done correctly with Subaru parts. for that price I’d see if I can find a $3,000 example and have the headgaskets and timing belt done how I want it. $2,000-$3,000 for a proper job and you end up paying the same amount (maybe a littlr less) for a more reliable vehicle